New Jersey sr500 tracker/scrambler

redwillissuperman said:
The seat base and the seat foam are two different things. The foam is usually sculpted to match the tank.

I would consider creating the base to go over the tank mount. Use a piece of scrap wood the same shape and height as the tank mount and bolt + some clearance. Tape it down in place and then tape over it.
***remember you are just creating positive space that will form the underside of the seat***

I was thinking of doing some kind of box thing over that area, but I didn't know if I needed to put some kind of fastening piece there but I guess the other fastening points and my weight will be plenty. ill make something up tonight for it.

thank you for the input I really appreciate it!
 
You could just use cardboard a little over the tank base, making sort of a box, to create some clearance for the seat pan to fit over the base easily.

Then tape over that surface you just created over the tank base and lay down the fiberglass over it creating the space that will mate the seat to the tank.

If you would like the seat to mate to the tank perfectly (mating to the backside downslope of the tank), you may have to also tape the tank and lay glass over it so the tank and seat mesh together cleanly.

I think I got that right and understandable, English not my first language.

Cheers bro, keep on going!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
I would just tape over the tank bracket, and part of the tank then run the glass up to it and then trim the edges and apolster over the lip to make the tank and seat flow together. foam shape will determine final look.
 
Also, you can use industrial velcro to hold the pan to the frame, It will keep it on pretty good.
 
dualero said:
You could just use cardboard a little over the tank base, making sort of a box, to create some clearance for the seat pan to fit over the base easily.

Then tape over that surface you just created over the tank base and lay down the fiberglass over it creating the space that will mate the seat to the tank.

If you would like the seat to mate to the tank perfectly (mating to the backside downslope of the tank), you may have to also tape the tank and lay glass over it so the tank and seat mesh together cleanly.

I think I got that right and understandable, English not my first language.

Cheers bro, keep on going!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

written perfectly! clearly explained, thank you!

ill make something tonight and probably tape off the lower part of the tank so I can glass over it, I can always cut off the excess!
 
Maritime said:
Also, you can use industrial velcro to hold the pan to the frame, It will keep it on pretty good.


AHHH! thanks for this idea, ill most likely use it on my electronics tray so I can move the components around and hide my wires as best as I can. does the Velcro glue come undone in high heat or is it a permanent thing?
 
The Velcro has adhesive on the back but you can always add some pop rivets. As long as the surface it smooth and clean when you apply it, it holds up pretty well.
 
redwillissuperman said:
The Velcro has adhesive on the back but you can always add some pop rivets. As long as the surface it smooth and clean when you apply it, it holds up pretty well.

This, I have also used an epoxy to make it stick better to certain surfaces, but a rivet at each end of a long strip is a good idea.
 
redwillissuperman said:
The Velcro has adhesive on the back but you can always add some pop rivets. As long as the surface it smooth and clean when you apply it, it holds up pretty well.

cool I have to pick some of that up, thanks for the pop rivet idea also, I think the regulator gets very hot. I don't want my electrics melting off the Velcro during the summer!

when I did my electric tray every time id look at it I would realize the placement of things was just shitty and I wished I could just move things around easily until I got what I needed.

next up...electronics tray!
 
The regulator should be mounted on a large surface metal plate or out in the airflow. Don't attach to fiberglass. Looking at your seat pan idea, that could be easily beaten into a steel or aluminum pan. I will make a video.
 
redwillissuperman said:
The regulator should be mounted on a large surface metal plate or out in the airflow. Don't attach to fiberglass. Looking at your seat pan idea, that could be easily beaten into a steel or aluminum pan. I will make a video.

I have it all mounted to a separate piece of metal under the seat right now so that the fins are out and exposed to plenty of air
 
Fiberglass pan is going to come out great. +1 on running the tape over the tank mounting bracket and onto the tank, then shaving it back with a dremel or something.
 
treitz said:
Fiberglass pan is going to come out great. +1 on running the tape over the tank mounting bracket and onto the tank, then shaving it back with a dremel or something.

yeah I was supposed to get to the final tapeing and cutting the fiberglass to size yesterday but I slacked off and didn't. ill do that tonight and possibly do the first layers of glassing.

Since you mentioned dremel, what cut off wheels do you use? I use the dremel brand and I have the quick disconnect thing on mine. those damn wheels constantly break on me, the center just spins out...
 
You are pushing it too hard/fast through the material. Lightly create a scroll line, then go over in multiple passes.
 
Nj732port said:
yeah I was supposed to get to the final tapeing and cutting the fiberglass to size yesterday but I slacked off and didn't. ill do that tonight and possibly do the first layers of glassing.

Since you mentioned dremel, what cut off wheels do you use? I use the dremel brand and I have the quick disconnect thing on mine. those damn wheels constantly break on me, the center just spins out...

I actually only said dremel because it seams to be the tool of choice for most on here. My preferred method, because I am not that patient, is to use an angle grinder with a 4" cutoff wheel to cut the general shape. Then use a 4" flap disk, like 120 grit or so for the final shaping. If you do this, be sure to wear a mask. You'll have lots of fiberglass in the air.

I've had issues with those little dremel cutoff wheels too, but redwillis is right. The trick is to go slow.
 
damn wish the dremel discs were as stout as the big ass grinder so I could run through shit! I'll slow it down and hopefully they will last, and I was searching for my mask a couple days ago probably have to go pick up a couple new ones.
 
The cutoff wheel + flap disks make SUPER quick work of fiberglass. Just saying. Can get them for pretty cheap at Harbor Freight if you don't have one.
 
Pre cut my fabric two straight two diagnol, taped up the first piece of fabric got everything ready to start on and then realized I didn't put wax down and I also don't have any way :'( guess that is waiting till tomorrow night :mad: photos of my set up and my bike stand anyone want to buy a dirtbike?! Comes with slicks ;D
 

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