'71 T500

oldrookie

Active Member
So it appears that old Suzukis seem to find me.

Been a while since I last posted because I sold my last project bike ('83 GR650) a few years ago. I had brought it to excellent running condition, but cosmetically it was still a project. Two daughters decided to get married in the space of four months and I needed money more than the bike. Didn't hurt that I picked up an '01 SV650 in excellent shape as a primary ride, so I reluctantly sold the GR.

Have been wanting another project, but had no idea what I wanted or where to find one that spoke to me.

A couple of years passed and a riding friend called to tell me his neighbor is moving and wants to sell a couple of Titans. Would I know anyone who might be interested?

"Sure, what's a Titan?" (I was into dirtbikes in the '70's and streetbikes were not even a blip on the radar.)

Did a little research and came home with two bikes. A '72 in boxes, a '71 in pretty good nick.

Sold the parts three days later and started on the carbs.









More later.
 
Well, it is later, so bit more about this.

Just got back from buying the tubing, etc., to turn my blow gun into a soda blaster so I can clean the carbs better. Going to DIY an auxiliary gas tank so I can try to start the bike after I get the carbs clean too.

Want to get it started to see what I'm actually working with before I spend the $ to strip the tank. It is a bit rusty and I don't want to fill it with gas to try starting it until I'm sure it is solid.

There are two known issues with the T500--apparently--that might make it tough call about whether to continue bringing it back. One is that the crank seals can dry out and that means tearing the crankshaft apart to replace the seals, if you can even find them. The other is possible damage to third and fourth gear due to a lack of oil.

Suzuki designed it for 1200ml of oil, but later created a work around to get it to 1400ml due to owner complaints about oil starvation affecting the mentioned gears. A trashed transmission may make this a parts bike , but can't tell til it runs.

A few more pics for the starting point.



 
5th gear is the real concern.

For the crank parts, check these guys out: http://www.knalnaarpotz.nl/onderdelen/catalog/index.php?cPath=23_164_166
 
Going to have to start watching all the T500 builds with my KZ nearing complete and the MT almost done, my T500 is next on the list.
 
Sonreir™ said:
5th gear is the real concern.

For the crank parts, check these guys out: http://www.knalnaarpotz.nl/onderdelen/catalog/index.php?cPath=23_164_166

Thanks. Still learning about the bike and where to get parts.
 
oldrookie said:
Well, it is later, so bit more about this.

Just got back from buying the tubing, etc., to turn my blow gun into a soda blaster so I can clean the carbs better. Going to DIY an auxiliary gas tank so I can try to start the bike after I get the carbs clean too.

Want to get it started to see what I'm actually working with before I spend the $ to strip the tank. It is a bit rusty and I don't want to fill it with gas to try starting it until I'm sure it is solid.

There are two known issues with the T500--apparently--that might make it tough call about whether to continue bringing it back. One is that the crank seals can dry out and that means tearing the crankshaft apart to replace the seals, if you can even find them. The other is possible damage to third and fourth gear due to a lack of oil.

Suzuki designed it for 1200ml of oil, but later created a work around to get it to 1400ml due to owner complaints about oil starvation affecting the mentioned gears. A trashed transmission may make this a parts bike , but can't tell til it runs.

A few more pics for the starting point.




I don't know where your at mechanically speaking, but splitting the crank case to replace the seals isn't a terribly hard job on these old Suzuki smokers. they split laterally (not like some of the older dirbikes) just take your time and have a clean bench that you can organize all the stuff. Crank seals should be considered a must on a bike this age. its a maintenance item at this point. leaky seals = lean air fuel mixture which = bad things for the crank and pistons. I wouldn't let having to do crank seals deter you from this build. Often you can get by with just the outside two seals being replaced, which doesn't always warrant a full crank rebuild. I have a local old school engine guy that has inspected a few two stroke cranks for me, and usually he says to just replace the outside seals, and it hasn't done me wrong yet.

also, if your on facebook, look up the Suzuki two stroke twins page as well as the t500/ titan page, there is a ton of good info on there and people willing to help. Also, do some digging, there is an oil dam that you can put in the tranny to help with the gearbox oiling issue. while you have it apart would be the time to do it.

By the looks of the pictures, you have a very nice original bike there. I would really urge you to do what you have to do to make it ridable and right. The bike is worth it IMHO.

Thanks for sharing the build here!
 
Do a leak-down test before you take it apart, to test the seals but safer to just replace them. A Suzuki guy told me that it is only the outer seals that go but I wouldn't trust that. I hope you don't part it out, cranks and gear clusters are around if you need them. I'll be watching this one.
 
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/382047991680

Here's a kit, full crankcase seals, the fellow who rebuilt my crank (vintage sled guy) said they were as good as any.

Cheap insurance that you won't have to tear the engine apart twice IMO.

That bike is MINT, you lucky bastard, can't wait to see how you get on.

If you are used to wrenching, the engine can be pulled out and apart in under an hour if it's not to rusted and the screws aren't all stripped to shit.

If you do open the engine, close it with these

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Suzuki-T500-GT500-Engine-Casings-Stainless-Allen-Screw-Kit_AR2OR.aspx

They are lovely

Good luck with it

Edit:
Nova engineering in the uk make replacement gears / trans parts if you need
 
Thank you all for the advice, information, and encouragement. I'm going to do everything feasible to get this old bike back on the road, so a lot of what you have posted is good news.

farmer92, The PO had taken the '72 down to parts and then bought the '71 so he'd know how to put it back together. I found a package in the parts bin of that stainless steel set you linked me too in the box, so they will be put to good use.

I have never torn an engine down, but I'm game to try.

Heading for the end of the semester, so time is going to be pretty limited until late May. I'll update as I get time to work on the bike.
 
oldrookie said:
I have never torn an engine down, but I'm game to try.

Good on ya. Take pictures during disassembly, lots of them, and if you get stuck on anything and have questions just ask them here. There are tons of people willing to help, and lots who have seen the inside of a t500 motor a good number of times. You got this man

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
HURCO550 said:
Good on ya. Take pictures during disassembly, lots of them, and if you get stuck on anything and have questions just ask them here. There are tons of people willing to help, and lots who have seen the inside of a t500 motor a good number of times. You got this man

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Fortunate that I have summers off. Looks like this project will take some time to do correctly and I really like the bike.

Thanks for the encouragement.
 
farmer92 said:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/382047991680

Here's a kit, full crankcase seals, the fellow who rebuilt my crank (vintage sled guy) said they were as good as any.

Ordered. Thanks for the link.
 
Took a shot at cleaning the carbs with a DIY soda blaster. Results aren't bad, but need to wait until I can get totally outside and close the garage door. Quite the mess to clean up.



Halfway through cleaning the float bowl.



Making an aux tank so I can test the bike without a tank on since I can't do the rest of the soda blasting right now.
 
oldrookie said:
Took a shot at cleaning the carbs with a DIY soda blaster. Results aren't bad, but need to wait until I can get totally outside and close the garage door. Quite the mess to clean up.



Halfway through cleaning the float bowl.



Making an aux tank so I can test the bike without a tank on since I can't do the rest of the soda blasting right now.
Looks great. Fyi, actual soda blast media works head and shoulders above store bought boxes. I got a 50lb. Bag at harbor freight a while back and it's lasted me a while, though lots of carbs and two sets of cases. Definitely worth the $$. Also, make sure you rigorously clean the carbs passages AFTER soda blasting. I had some clogging a pilot circuit once after soda blasting and it was a real bear to get it all out. I ended up putting it in a pot of almost boiling water to get it loosened up.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Working on cleaning carbs still. Blaster works, but needing to wait until I can get it outside the garage. Been raining a lot this last week and I've got one more week until finals week, so too much to do other than noodle around with the bike a bit.

Did go get the title work done so I can register it when I get it running again.
 
Carbs are clean and reinstalled. Set the slides last night.

Spent a few minutes draining a bit of the old two-stroke oil out of the tank this evening.

Decided I would fill the tank with a different color oil (has green in the tank and in the line) so I can see the line change color if the oil pump is working correctly when I try to start the bike. Probably going to give that a try early next week after my final grades have been turned in.

Going to have a friend with a lot of experience building and riding two-strokers come by when I give that a try just to have someone who knows what to listen for if anything is wrong.

The rubber bit connecting the airbox to the carbs is in bad shape, but I think I'll use tape to seal it up enough to try to start the bike. Just want to know if it is going to run.

Next job, prior to trying to start it, is to drain the crankcase put a fresh 1200ml of oil in.
 
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Make sure to take a video of it running :)

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HURCO550 said:
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Make sure to take a video of it running :)

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ahhh...the joys of bringing a 46-year-old bike back to life. Searching for parts, brittle plastic and uncertainty about whether it will run when you get done. ;D

I've see reproduction airbox rubber bits, so I'll likely get one ordered. Need a petcock (probably just go with a non-vacuum type and cap the vacuum port on the carb.)

Kind of amazed at how many parts are available, but the odd part crops up that I can't get. The petcock rebuild kits don't have the screen--no longer available anywhere--and those oil lines are next to impossible to replace, so I'm hoping not to have to touch them.
 
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