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Author Topic: '71 T500  (Read 2361 times)

Online HURCO550

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2017, 08:32:53 »
solid plan on the petcock, I rebuilt mine (gt250) but its still caused some headache, and I usually just end up having to run it in the "prime" position anyhow. I also am running a repop air box boot with no issues to date.

You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.
Keep er' Between The Ditches!!!

1976 BMW R90/6 farkilitious: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=74349.msg882477#msg882477
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1973 Ironhead Hardtail: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68135.msg788081#msg788081
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
1971 Yamaha 90cc twin HS1: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70498.0
"Two strokes are the motorcycle equivalent to Thors chariot. Full of glory and memories of battles victorious" ~ von yinzer

Offline oldrookie

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #21 on: May 19, 2017, 22:23:06 »

You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.

Hoping to avoid messing with them much. Thinking they are pretty brittle at this point.

Did get the crankcase oil changed today, but not much else.

Offline Sonreir

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2017, 14:31:22 »
You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.

You got details on how this process works? I'm at the same point in my build.
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Offline farmer92

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #23 on: May 20, 2017, 14:38:31 »
I ran some WD 40 through mine, from the pump side
Had to bend the plastic straw to line it with the hole in the banjo


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Offline bradj

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #24 on: May 23, 2017, 11:44:42 »
Good stuff I'm following

Online advCo

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #25 on: May 23, 2017, 12:01:21 »
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Good info, I will be following this procedure on the RV.
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Online HURCO550

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #26 on: May 23, 2017, 12:18:53 »
You got details on how this process works? I'm at the same point in my build.

Good info, I will be following this procedure on the RV.

this is from a gt250, but it is a very similar oil pump setup......

Upon inspection, I realized that the check valves were stuck and allowing crank pressure to back feed air into the lines, along with the original plastic banjo washers not sealing right.



I used a harbor freight oil can with alcohol (the stuff you get at the drug store) to flush the lines abs get the gunk out of the check valves. After some thorough flushing, the check valves were back in order, and I then purged the lines out with another pump can of 2 smoke oil.


I then replaced the plastic washers with stat-o-seal banjo fitting washers which are a common upgrade from plastic or copper.


These are the el cheapo cans I used for the project. its cheap enough to buy two, one for alcohol and one for the 2 stroke oil.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

You basically put the tapered end in the banjo fitting at the pump end and bock off the "other side" of the same banjo fitting with your finger and pump it right through. I was going to turn a piece in the lathe to basically adapt the banjo fitting at the one end right to the oil can, but I didn't... ha


Keep er' Between The Ditches!!!

1976 BMW R90/6 farkilitious: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=74349.msg882477#msg882477
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1973 Ironhead Hardtail: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68135.msg788081#msg788081
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
1971 Yamaha 90cc twin HS1: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70498.0
"Two strokes are the motorcycle equivalent to Thors chariot. Full of glory and memories of battles victorious" ~ von yinzer

Offline johnu

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #27 on: May 24, 2017, 14:00:27 »
If you are taking the the engine apart I would not neglect changing the center crank seal.  I did when I built mine and it was a big mistake, had to strip the engine again and replace it.  Do it then forget about it.

Offline oldrookie

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #28 on: May 25, 2017, 12:29:00 »
this is from a gt250, but it is a very similar oil pump setup......

Upon inspection, I realized that the check valves were stuck and allowing crank pressure to back feed air into the lines, along with the original plastic banjo washers not sealing right.


Great stuff in that post Hurco550. Have an HF about 10 minutes from here, so off I go.

Interested in your statement above about "upon inspection." How do I inspect them to know whether mine are also weak/stuck? Can get the banjo seals at Earl's on Gasoline Alley, so will likely follow your lead on replacing those too.

Offline oldrookie

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #29 on: May 25, 2017, 12:35:16 »
Oh, forgot to add that I tried to hook up a battery yesterday and had no lights, etc. Started following the wiring, found there was no fuse--the PO had just slapped the two connectors together bypassing the fuse.

Went to open the headlight bucket and found it held together with wood screws.

Got the correct fuse, got better leads to hook up the battery and viola! Neutral light comes on when the key is on.

Didn't leave the key on long as I've read you can damage the coils if the key is left on more than a minute, but it does appear that I might be able to try starting it once I get the oil lines primed.

I did read your post, Johnu, and I'm not tearing the engine down at present. I really want to see if it will run and what needs to be done to get it back to proper shape if it does. I understand it is getting difficult to find the crankseals. Did you have any trouble getting it rebuilt?