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Author Topic: '71 T500  (Read 1586 times)

Offline oldrookie

  • Posts: 68
Re: '71 T500
« Reply #15 on: Apr 29, 2017, 22:44:36 »
Very good to know, HURCO550. I've never done any media blasting so a lot of learn. Appreciate the information.

Offline oldrookie

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #16 on: May 07, 2017, 17:43:49 »
Working on cleaning carbs still. Blaster works, but needing to wait until I can get it outside the garage. Been raining a lot this last week and I've got one more week until finals week, so too much to do other than noodle around with the bike a bit.

Did go get the title work done so I can register it when I get it running again.

Offline oldrookie

  • Posts: 68
Re: '71 T500
« Reply #17 on: May 18, 2017, 20:43:42 »
Carbs are clean and reinstalled. Set the slides last night.

Spent a few minutes draining a bit of the old two-stroke oil out of the tank this evening.

Decided I would fill the tank with a different color oil (has green in the tank and in the line) so I can see the line change color if the oil pump is working correctly when I try to start the bike. Probably going to give that a try early next week after my final grades have been turned in.

Going to have a friend with a lot of experience building and riding two-strokers come by when I give that a try just to have someone who knows what to listen for if anything is wrong.

The rubber bit connecting the airbox to the carbs is in bad shape, but I think I'll use tape to seal it up enough to try to start the bike. Just want to know if it is going to run.

Next job, prior to trying to start it, is to drain the crankcase put a fresh 1200ml of oil in.

Offline HURCO550

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #18 on: May 18, 2017, 23:50:23 »
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Make sure to take a video of it running :)

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Keep er' Between The Ditches!!!

1984 VF1000F Interceptor:http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71539.msg842137#msg842137
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1973 Ironhead Hardtail: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68135.msg788081#msg788081
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
1971 Yamaha 90cc twin HS1: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70498.0
"Two strokes are the motorcycle equivalent to Thors chariot. Full of glory and memories of battles victorious" ~ von yinzer
"Are there any die hard KZ550LTD fans in existence?" ~ doc_rot

Offline oldrookie

  • Posts: 68
Re: '71 T500
« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2017, 08:16:48 »
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Make sure to take a video of it running :)

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ahhh...the joys of bringing a 46-year-old bike back to life. Searching for parts, brittle plastic and uncertainty about whether it will run when you get done.  ;D

I've see reproduction airbox rubber bits, so I'll likely get one ordered. Need a petcock (probably just go with a non-vacuum type and cap the vacuum port on the carb.)

Kind of amazed at how many parts are available, but the odd part crops up that I can't get. The petcock rebuild kits don't have the screen--no longer available anywhere--and those oil lines are next to impossible to replace, so I'm hoping not to have to touch them.

Offline HURCO550

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2017, 08:32:53 »
solid plan on the petcock, I rebuilt mine (gt250) but its still caused some headache, and I usually just end up having to run it in the "prime" position anyhow. I also am running a repop air box boot with no issues to date.

You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.
Keep er' Between The Ditches!!!

1984 VF1000F Interceptor:http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71539.msg842137#msg842137
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1973 Ironhead Hardtail: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68135.msg788081#msg788081
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
1971 Yamaha 90cc twin HS1: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70498.0
"Two strokes are the motorcycle equivalent to Thors chariot. Full of glory and memories of battles victorious" ~ von yinzer
"Are there any die hard KZ550LTD fans in existence?" ~ doc_rot

Offline oldrookie

  • Posts: 68
Re: '71 T500
« Reply #21 on: May 19, 2017, 22:23:06 »

You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.

Hoping to avoid messing with them much. Thinking they are pretty brittle at this point.

Did get the crankcase oil changed today, but not much else.

Online Sonreir™

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2017, 14:31:22 »
You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.

You got details on how this process works? I'm at the same point in my build.
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Online farmer92

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #23 on: May 20, 2017, 14:38:31 »
I ran some WD 40 through mine, from the pump side
Had to bend the plastic straw to line it with the hole in the banjo


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Offline bradj

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #24 on: May 23, 2017, 11:44:42 »
Good stuff I'm following

Offline advCo

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #25 on: May 23, 2017, 12:01:21 »
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Good info, I will be following this procedure on the RV.
"He broke the mirrors off his Cadillac, 'cause he doesn't like it looking like he looks back."

74 CB360 - Luna - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.0
82 GS550L - Tracker-ish - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67229.0 - Sold
74 XL350 - The Turd - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70252.0
Suzuki FA50 "No-Ped" - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71189.0
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Offline HURCO550

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #26 on: May 23, 2017, 12:18:53 »
You got details on how this process works? I'm at the same point in my build.

Good info, I will be following this procedure on the RV.

this is from a gt250, but it is a very similar oil pump setup......

Upon inspection, I realized that the check valves were stuck and allowing crank pressure to back feed air into the lines, along with the original plastic banjo washers not sealing right.



I used a harbor freight oil can with alcohol (the stuff you get at the drug store) to flush the lines abs get the gunk out of the check valves. After some thorough flushing, the check valves were back in order, and I then purged the lines out with another pump can of 2 smoke oil.


I then replaced the plastic washers with stat-o-seal banjo fitting washers which are a common upgrade from plastic or copper.


These are the el cheapo cans I used for the project. its cheap enough to buy two, one for alcohol and one for the 2 stroke oil.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

You basically put the tapered end in the banjo fitting at the pump end and bock off the "other side" of the same banjo fitting with your finger and pump it right through. I was going to turn a piece in the lathe to basically adapt the banjo fitting at the one end right to the oil can, but I didn't... ha


Keep er' Between The Ditches!!!

1984 VF1000F Interceptor:http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71539.msg842137#msg842137
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1973 Ironhead Hardtail: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68135.msg788081#msg788081
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
1971 Yamaha 90cc twin HS1: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70498.0
"Two strokes are the motorcycle equivalent to Thors chariot. Full of glory and memories of battles victorious" ~ von yinzer
"Are there any die hard KZ550LTD fans in existence?" ~ doc_rot

Offline johnu

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Re: '71 T500
« Reply #27 on: May 24, 2017, 14:00:27 »
If you are taking the the engine apart I would not neglect changing the center crank seal.  I did when I built mine and it was a big mistake, had to strip the engine again and replace it.  Do it then forget about it.

Offline oldrookie

  • Posts: 68
Re: '71 T500
« Reply #28 on: May 25, 2017, 12:29:00 »
this is from a gt250, but it is a very similar oil pump setup......

Upon inspection, I realized that the check valves were stuck and allowing crank pressure to back feed air into the lines, along with the original plastic banjo washers not sealing right.


Great stuff in that post Hurco550. Have an HF about 10 minutes from here, so off I go.

Interested in your statement above about "upon inspection." How do I inspect them to know whether mine are also weak/stuck? Can get the banjo seals at Earl's on Gasoline Alley, so will likely follow your lead on replacing those too.

Offline oldrookie

  • Posts: 68
Re: '71 T500
« Reply #29 on: May 25, 2017, 12:35:16 »
Oh, forgot to add that I tried to hook up a battery yesterday and had no lights, etc. Started following the wiring, found there was no fuse--the PO had just slapped the two connectors together bypassing the fuse.

Went to open the headlight bucket and found it held together with wood screws.

Got the correct fuse, got better leads to hook up the battery and viola! Neutral light comes on when the key is on.

Didn't leave the key on long as I've read you can damage the coils if the key is left on more than a minute, but it does appear that I might be able to try starting it once I get the oil lines primed.

I did read your post, Johnu, and I'm not tearing the engine down at present. I really want to see if it will run and what needs to be done to get it back to proper shape if it does. I understand it is getting difficult to find the crankseals. Did you have any trouble getting it rebuilt?