XS750 No spark

I measured the voltage.
It's a stock regulator but I have a new one coming in.
I tired it with the kick starter and still nothing. It's almost like the Cam is spinning too fast. What's the difference between me opening it with my hand vs the cams opening it? Do the wires need to be grounded?
 
DonCamalot said:
Voltage is reading 10 from where the coil connects to. And open it slowly decreases to .003+_
Thanks again for you continues help!
Click to expand...
I just re-read something from before. You stated you only have 10 volts, but you need 12V + at the coils to excite the second windings in the coil. Your not getting enough voltage to the coils. I think your battery may need to be replaced with a new one? Just a thought ;) I have a buddy who owns a Battery Giant, and they can test your battery for you. It only takes a minute to do. Good luck :)
(BTW, this is a really good video explaining what i can't.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W94iksaQwUo
 
DonCamalot said:
Voltage is reading 10 from where the coil connects to. And open it slowly decreases to .003+_
Thanks again for you continues help!
Click to expand...

Up next, resistance from the the plug cap through to the positive side of the ignition coil. This should read somewhere between 15,000Ω and 25,000Ω.
 
Interceptor is correct.

10 Volts will not allow an XS750 to provide adequate spark for combustion.
 
All the coils are putting out around 20k resistance. I tested Ampers and the third point is giving me 1.2, when I press the ignition. The other two are giving me .6-.8. I'm taking my battery in for testing tomorrow. Any other ideas? What controls the ampers through the ignition and points? I'm pretty desperate Haha
Thank you again for the help.
 
From what I know, amps are controlled only by what is calling for it. (A starter motor will take a lot of amps verses a headlight.) Batteries have an amp hour (ah) rating, and batteries that are not in great condition may show 12 volts, but the amps will diminish quickly. That's why having the right battery for your bike is so important. On the flip side, if you ad a bunch of accessories, your charging system may not be able to keep up with the amps being used. So I believe you would then have to replace parts in your charging system.
 
Amps used by a component is determined by the voltage in the system as well as the resistance in the component. Ohm's Law: I = E / R. I is current (amps), E is voltage, and R is resistance.

If the resistance is too high, the amps will be low. Not enough current to the points is usually a bad/corroded connection somewhere, possibly even bad wiring after all this time.
 
Sonreir™ said:
Amps used by a component is determined by the voltage in the system as well as the resistance in the component. Ohm's Law: I = E / R. I is current (amps), E is voltage, and R is resistance.

If the resistance is too high, the amps will be low. Not enough current to the points is usually a bad/corroded connection somewhere, possibly even bad wiring after all this time.
Click to expand...
Oh, I think I see where you were going with testing the resistance now. My thinking was that the battery test would be the easiest thing to do since he was only showing 10V ;)
 
Finally figured it out. It was a combination of the kill switch being completely rusted, and some wiring around the points. Thank you all for your help!!
Now, if you can guide me to a guide on how to time the points- a completely dumb edition- I'd much appreciate it!
 
Sweet! It`s a great feeling when you figure something out like this :) Good call Sonreir! Now I know what to look for on my own bike - It`s kind if doing the same thing :eek:. I`ve done the points setting in the past, but I`m not sure I can help you all. I`ll let someone who knows what they are doing help. Would you happen to own a service manual? It`s usually shown how to do it in there .
 
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