Cb360 Reassembly Help

It should be in contact all of the time, but it will be especially apparent when the cam lob is holding the point open, yes.
 
When you place the mark at the points follower the point "should" be open to its max. Set your .014 there.

But turn it over a few times to double check the mark could be off a bit. Its possible anything can happen.

You cant have it opening more than .016

11494-220219213545.png
 
For some reason i can’t get the points to open at the correct time. Or even open at all.
 
See the 'dot' in picture Trek posted and the little 'cutaway' at about 9:00 o'clock position? That shows correct points cam assembly. How long is the 'heel' of points? It should be at least 1.5mm but probably over 2mm. It's rare but I have seen them missing from factory (aftermarket, broken off). The heel doesn't touch points cam all the way around, probably be a 0.010"~0.020" at the low point of cam. Check engine cam extension isn't bent (they usually crack if cam has been dropped but could bend slightly) Take a good look at points cam and set high point under points heel, don't even bother with crank position until you can get both points gapped around 0.014"
 
It seems the cam extension is not bent, heel of the points are within what pj said was spec. And the advancer seems to be correctly assembled as the mark is approximately in the 9-10 o'clock region when placed onto the cam shaft end. Would pictures of anything help out so you guys can see everything I am dealing with?


But, is the only way to verify cam timing is correct is to take the valves off?
Or, is TDC on the left side relative to the LF mark? I can correctly adjust the valve gap. And the tensioner is adjusted properly. So I don't believe the cam timing is off. But its a fair thought that it could be the cause of the issues.
 
Will do. Any particular pictures which would be most helpful? Sorry, just want to make sure I make it easiest on those being so kind to help me.
 
At the point things are going wrong. My understanding is your points still don't close, correct?
 
The left points open and close (and they do not open and close at appropriate time), have not gapped them yet. The right points do not do anything.
 
As far as where, the LF mark is your firing mark. The LT mark is your valve mark. So, you should set your points at the LF mark. Gap must be set in order to get it right. First set the gap at the tallest part of the lobe, then move the entire points plate to get the left side to fire on the LF mark. Once you get the left side set, then you loosen the screws for just the right points, and adjust them to fire on the RF mark.
 
Ah... Thank you, I was under the impression (though someone said it previously in this thread and I didn't understand then) that the plate needed to remain in the same spot. But once the gap is set, then I can rotate the point plate accordingly.

With the right point not moving. Do I need to move the point lobe as close as possible to the advancer cam? So it actually moves?
 
cb360j said:
Ah... Thank you, I was under the impression (though someone said it previously in this thread and I didn't understand then) that the plate needed to remain in the same spot. But once the gap is set, then I can rotate the point plate accordingly.
Click to expand...

This is correct. Everything starts with your left side. Once the gap is set for the left, then you move the plate. The right side may or may not share the same gap once set, so don't worry about gap on the right. Once you move the plate to set the left side, you will tighten the screws and not move it again. Then, you loosen the screws just for the right points, set them on the mark and you're done. Yes, the lobe moves towards the cam to open the points.
 
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help

You say that they won't open at all. Every bike/car/tractor that I've seen, you could adjust the points so they either wouldn't open or wouldn't close the whole revolution of the cam - there was that much adjustment range. There are usually two screws holding the point base: one is a pivot near the bend in the point spring, and the other is the adjustment clamp near the point contacts. Both need to be loosened to adjust the gap. A flat-blade screwdriver allows you to lever one vs theb other to set the gap. I suggest that you loosen the screws and practice varying the gap as you watch and verify what you are doing. It should be easy to see the gap open and close. As you move the contact fixed to the base toward the cam, the cam follower hits the cam and keeps the other contact from moving any more. Moving the base further towards the cam opens the contact.
 
Adjusted gap on left point. Turned plate to where left is opening as lf approaches lf on compression stroke.

Haven’t adjusted the right point gap yet.
The left point is also opening directly at the F Mark (180 degrees on the crank). Is this because I have not set the right point gap yet
 
The left and right points are independent, setting one will affect the other only because of the clearances between parts. If everything was pefrectly sized it would be easy to rotate things without losing clearances, but, parts are built for easy assembly so will move up, down, sideways instead of just rotating. You set points gap at highhest point of cam, rotate plate to get timing right, re-check gap and probably start over. When one side is done, you do the other side without moving the main backplate. Sometimes you must 'split the difference' to get both sides 'close'Your missing a fundamental idea somewhere
 
Got it timed, or at least I believe so. Put gas tank on, fuel lines,
Tried to start it up, but it’s only backfiring. Out of time? Not getting enough fuel? Also, flor bowl drain for right carb is leaking when fuel is on. Float level off?
 
Big loud backfires one every 4th or 5th kick?

If so, swap the yellow and blue wires between the two ignition coils and try again.
 
cb360j said:
Got it timed, or at least I believe so. Put gas tank on, fuel lines,
Tried to start it up, but it’s only backfiring. Out of time? Not getting enough fuel? Also, flor bowl drain for right carb is leaking when fuel is on. Float level off?
Click to expand...

Sounds like what my 360 did when I had the advancer installed 180* out.

Sometimes the floats stick. Try tapping the bowl with the handle of a screwdriver while the fuel is on and see if it stops leaking.
 
No I’m using electric start. After about 3 or 4 seconds

I don’t think it’s 180° out because the tick mark on the advancer is correctly aligned I think.
 
My ignition coils have a blue, and white/black wire. Which of these would I swap? Also, spark plugs have spark when ground to engine so I know its getting spark
 
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