Cb360 Reassembly Help

If both ignition coils have blue wires, swap the points wires from left to right between the two coils.
 
I am getting fuel, I am getting air, and according to grounding the plugs to the frame I am getting spark.. BUT, I may not be getting it at exactly the right time. So I am revisiting ignition timing.

I will take a photo and post, but yesterday I went to retime the bike. I set the left point gap at the highest point of the advancer lobe (also on compression stroke). Adjusted to where left point is opening as the crank approaches the LF mark. Now, I rotate the crank over 360 degrees, to the point where the right point should be opening, but it is not. I originally thought maybe the point was not close enough to the advancer, and needed adjusting. But. Upon inspecting where the tick mark (highest point on the advancer lobe), it is not under the point, therefor not causing it to open at the correct time.

If my understanding is correct, the high point of the lobe should have rotated to beneath the point lobe making it rise. If it didn't go to correct position:
A) the advancer is 180 degrees out? The tick mark is correctly aligned with the small cut out at the base of the advancer so I didn't think it was out.
B) The crank would turn 360 degrees from the left compression to the right compression, correct?
 
You might want to put a strobe light on it to get a better idea of where your spark is.

Also, the Honda 360 is a 180° crank, not a 360° crank, so if you rotate the crankshaft a full rotation, you'll be way off. The left should fire and then the right should fire 180° later. Then you get 540° of crankshaft rotation before the left side fires again. Right side compression stroke is left side power stroke. Does that make sense?
 
Yes that does, thank you.

So, set timing left, then rotate 180 degrees to time the right point.

Can I use a strobe light even if the bike hasnt run yet? Only turns over and backfires haha
From before, where you told me to change where the points wires went, should I move those back?
 
You can use a strobe light so long as you have spark (even if the timing is wrong). It should help visualize where the spark is actually firing and might shed some light on what else needs to be done.

Swap the wires back if you were getting less backfiring before.
 
Had some puffs come back through the carb. In my car engine experience that means the timing is off.

This is weird to me and doesn’t seem right, but this is the points at LF and F, respectively both points seem to be open in both conditions. But they are aligned properly wth the tick mark now. That’s a step in right direction
 

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The cam rotates twice so you'll have both closed next time crank turns one revolution
 
First start happened yesterday, one of the most exciting things to happen to me. Ever. Now I see why you guys work on bikes so much, the feeling of big wins like that when working for a long time on something is addicting.

Anyway,
Had it going for about a minute or two straight, was going to let it warm up and start tuning the carbs. Then it just shut off. Going to see what possibly happened tomorrow, but this morning I went in the garage because I woke up thinking about how i forgot to tighten the bolt holding the advancer to the cam, so maybe the advancer slipped forward a little off the pin and wasn't functioning properly (that is my hope anyway cause then I can get back to tuning).

Just wanted to let you guys know that it is getting ever closer and I am very thankful for anyone and everyone who has chimed in with little tid bits of knowledge to help progress me down this rabbit hole!
 
Now that you have it running, get it timed with a light and then sync the carbs. It'll make a world of difference.

If the bike was running for a few minutes no problem and just died, you may want to check the voltage on your battery and then next time you have it running put the multimeter on there and make sure you're charging right.
 
Once I verify what the issue was that made it die I will check the voltage. After that I went to try and start it again using a battery charger because after pushing the starter for so long it dies, and it was only turning the starter so thats why I think the advancer came off the pin.
However when it did start, i just bumped the push start an it fired right up.
 
Congrats! One of the sweetest sounds is when all the hard work pays off and you hear that first bust of pleasure.
 
I was right, the advancer came off the pin and threw the timing off. Got it all timed and starts up on first bump every single time now! God is great.
Now for carb tuning. I printed the manual pages on how to tune the carbs, but turning the throttle stop screw counter clockwise will not slow the engine RPM down. It is idling at about 4k rpm at the moment. I also tried adjusting the pilot screw but still no difference.
 
New info:

I pulled the air filters off just to look at the carb slides, the right is all the way open and the left is much more closed. Assuming the means sync the carbs? Do I adjust the throttle speed then get them synced? (the throttle speed wont adjust)
 
Links to my 360 carb posts...

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63133.0

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=27417.msg885289#msg885289
 
The Honda carb manual doesn't exactly cover the bastards they installed on the 360. But there's a lot to learn from it.
 
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