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Author Topic: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!  (Read 223450 times)

Offline dcwp

  • Posts: 559
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #10 on: Sep 24, 2009, 21:51:37 »
Thanks man, this is super helpful!  I just finished my spraybomb job and I'm less than thrilled with it.  Wish I had waited another month so I would have seen this first. 

I have a couple of questions also.  You say to hold the can 20 inches away.  That seems like a lot to me for a regular rattle can.  I've found that painting from too far away gives a powdery rough finish.  Of course I've never set up a booth, so maybe that's the effect of wind.

Also, is a power sander absolutely necessary?  It's hard to fit one into the finer areas of many bike/car parts and I like to work by hand anyhow to avoid overdoing individual areas.  Is the key here just to sand in circular motions where you have to do it by hand?

Thanks again!

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #11 on: Sep 24, 2009, 22:44:05 »
DCWP,

Yes, 20 inches in the "dust coat" stage. That powdery rough finish is what you are trying to achieve! Re-read the first few sentences in the priming section, you will see where I say that this coat should have a rough texture.
As far as a DA sander goes, it is not absolutely necessary, but definatly recomended. Small parts are ok not to use the sander on, however on large parts, it really makes a difference. The movement in a DA sander is better due to its random patern, hand sanding can leave streaks!

If you are unhappy with your paint, you can always do it again! Each time you do it, you will get better!
Cheers!

Offline dcwp

  • Posts: 559
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #12 on: Sep 25, 2009, 23:22:57 »
Oh yeah, thanks.  I need to learn to read a little closer.

dp

Offline jonescafe72

  • Posts: 182
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #13 on: Sep 26, 2009, 11:01:42 »
Just read this, and thank you! I'm gonna give this a shot when I'm ready to do my next bike. I'm always in a hurry, and have no experience painting. Hopefully with your instruction, I will slow down, and take the time to do it right.
'66 Sprint "Francesca"

Offline killerdwarf

  • Posts: 416
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #14 on: Sep 27, 2009, 10:02:52 »
Instead of using off the store shelf paints, you can go to just about any automotive paint retailer and have any of the thousands of colours in their books put into a large spray bomb. They are about 20 bucks. In my experience these custom made bombs work way better than the shelf bombs. The paint is of much better quality, and covers much better.

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #15 on: Sep 27, 2009, 17:36:52 »
Killerdwarf,

Thats a great tip, I have never heard of this? Can you buy them on the net somewhere? Could you post the links on here! I would like to find some of this!

Offline killerdwarf

  • Posts: 416
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!
« Reply #16 on: Sep 27, 2009, 17:44:34 »
Just go to an automotive paint and body supply store. Here in Kitchener, UAP,NAPA and Carquest will do it. Check your yellow pages, and give some places a call. Bet you find one easily.

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" ...everything is here!
« Reply #17 on: Sep 29, 2009, 17:49:09 »
For the Tuff look!

Well here it is, for the ones out there who are planning on going with flat paint. I have copied portions of the process that are the same as above and pasted them here so it will be easy for you to copy and print the process for reference. Have fun!

Keys to a great (flat) rattle can job:
1.   Start with excellent bodywork
2.   Buy good quality brand paints
3.   Learn to move in even strokes with even pace
4.   Create a makeshift paint booth (good lighting, sealed off from bugs/dusts/wind)
5.   GOOD PAINT TAKES TIME!

Tools and supplies needed:
1.   Dual action sander, preferably variable speed or at least a variable speed trigger
2.   Sand paper for DA sander, 400 grit / 800grit / 1200grit
3.   Denatured alcohol
4.   Liquid soap
5.   Lint free cloths (clean)!
6.   Filler primer ( I like the gray rustoleum brand)
7.   Body color paint (flat)

Intro:
   As stated in the keys above, the body work must be smooth and seamless, I cannot stress that enough! (Maybe someone who is handy with the body filler and finishing techniques will create that tread)  I still like to prep the body work for paint by using the DA sander and the 400grit followed by the 800grit turning it on a high speed. If you are painting on fiberglass, be careful around edges not to cut in too deep. You are looking for a smooth surface with no noticeable transitions from filler to metal or resin. Do all your painting in the booth, but remember painting and “tack prep” is the only things you should do in the booth, never sand.

The following are prep methods that you will refer back to in many stages of the process, so from this point forward each method will be sited by its title.

“Wash Prep”:
   Wash object with running water and soap. I like dish washing liquid. Make sure you use a rag. Rinse thoroughly with running water. Wipe dry with shamy or lint free cloth.  Allow some time after to air dry.

“Tack prep”:
   Move object to paint booth. Using a clean/dry lint free cloth, wipe down entire object with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol. Be sure you do not touch the object with anything (especially your fingers) after wiping down.

Prep:
   When ready to begin painting you should start with a light coat to check your body work. This first coat will show you any imperfections before you waist too much time. Begin by “wash prepping” your object, then spray a light coat of the primer on the object. You should be holding the can 16 to 20 inches away from the object, waving it back and forth lightly while intermittently releasing and pressing the nozzle.  You want to slowly cover the item with a light even coat, barley getting the object covered in color. Allow this coat to dry for 15-20 minutes. Visually inspect the object for imperfections in the bodywork. If you see definite lines where two layers meet or pitting, your bodywork is not done and you are not ready for paint.  Once you are satisfied with you visual inspection coat move on to priming!

Priming:
   Start by “dust coating”. This means hold the can about 20 inches from object and rapidly depress and release the nozzle until you have covered the entire object in a dusty looking coat. This coat should have a texture to it, which is what allows you to build a heavy coat without getting running or sheeting. Never let this “dust coat” look wet; you are laying it to heavy if it appears wet. Allow the “dust coat” 5 minutes to set then lay on another dust coat and wait five more minutes. Now you are ready to start “covering”.  “Covering” means to lay fairly heavy coats of paint using the longest stroke possible. (EXAMPLE: if you were painting a flat square you would start across the bottom and work to the top by moving in horizontal strokes. Aim the nozzle more toward the unpainted surface and away from the freshly painted surface. Depressing the nozzle before your come over the edge and releasing after passing over the opposite edge, painting in both directions.) You should hold the can 12 to 14inches from object and overlap each previous pass by about 2 inches. Don’t try to get it to cover everything, just move at one constant speed and keep it all even, you will be making many passes over the object so it will get covered. After you first “covering coat” you can start over with another “covering coat”. That should be done about four times before pausing. After the fourth coat, stop and allow a 15 minute tack time. After the time has passed you can lay on another four coats of “covering”, wait 15 more minutes then repeat covering again! At this point you have 12 coats on your object, it needs to sit for a while, primer dries fast but when you lay it heavy it will take a while for it to cure. Place the object in your booth or other safe place and allow it to sit for at least 3 hours. After 3 hours you should repeat this entire process. Flat paint looks heavier if you have a thick primer. When you get back to the end this time it will need to cure for 48 hours. You may find that your primer has a gritty texture or even some egg shell or orange peel finish, this is ok. In fact if you did it all right, it should! Time to do some sanding! With your DA sander on a low speed, wet sand the surface using 1200grit. DO NOT sand corners with sander, save them and do them by hand very lightly. (TIP: mix up some wet sanding solution by using one teaspoon of baby shampoo in a gallon of water) Once the primer coat is somewhat smooth, time to lay some color! If you sanded through your primer coat,   do it all again, and sand lighter!

Flat color painting:
   For flat paint you will have to modify the “covering” technique. You will do your first “flat paint covering” coat just as before, but when you follow with the next coat you will rotate your spray direction in a 45 degree angel from your previous direction. (EXAMPLE: if you were painting a flat square you would start across the bottom and work to the top by moving in horizontal strokes. Aim the nozzle more toward the unpainted surface and away from the freshly painted surface. Depressing the nozzle before your come over the edge and releasing after passing over the opposite edge, painting in both directions / on your next coat you would start at the bottom corner and move toward the top opposite corner with diagonal strokes/ on the next coat you would start on the right side and work toward the left moving in vertical strokes / fourth coat will be from top corner moving toward bottom opposite corner moving in diagonal strokes that are perpendicular to your previous diagonal pass) Begin by doing the “wash prep” followed by the  ”tack prep”. Once you are ready and feeling confident with your “flat paint covering” technique, begin your “dust coat” of the flat color. Allow that 10 minutes to tack then go with the “flat paint covering” method. Rememver these are very very light coats, much lighter than with gloss paints. Just as above do the “flat paint covering” method by doing four full passes (each turned 45 degrees from last), wait 15 minutes, repeat, and repeat again. This again should be twelve coats, give this 2 hours in the booth. After the set time, go straight into another “dust” coat followed by the same 12 coat “flat paint covering” process. Wait two hours, repeat again. You will have 32 coats on at this time. Curing time! Allow the object at least 48 hours to cure. It should be done! However if the finish is too rough you can wet sand with 1200 grit lightly and evenly, then “wash prep”. After it dries you can rock the thing as is or lay a few more passes on it. Your call!

Clear Coating:
What clear coat? You choose to go with the “I don’t give a shit” tough look, it may get scratched, but that just adds character!


Buffing:
   Buffing is for bling jobs! Your not building a show piece, you choose flat. Use the buffer for your boots and get to riding your rat!

I hope you find this helpful! Good Luck!

 

« Last Edit: Dec 20, 2010, 10:12:36 by tWistedWheelz »

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #18 on: Oct 07, 2009, 15:20:36 »
All the painting Q&A you can handle!

So, like I said before, I want this thread to be as helpful as possible. I got to going through the older threads and noticed that there have been many post on painting that say the same things with slightly different comments. Lots of the same questions over and over and same answers! I realize that it is just too easy to type what you need and wait for replies (as most people on this site are very friendly and eager to help) rather than using the search option or fumbling through the old post. I am guilty of it myself! I have gone through the 121 pages currently in the 1-800-CAFÉ-HELP section and pulled every paint related thread. Now I know someone out there is going to say “you did not site mine or that one” but I did leave out a few that I felt was redundant, so spare use all by holding you non-constructive post! I tried to categorize them to be more convenient, and would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread and on the threads that I am linking.

Painting Frames/Rims:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=11130.0

Appliance epoxy info:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=9762.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=9107.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=8891.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6098.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6233.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=10404.0

Rustoleum Professional Enamel info:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=9707.0

Duplicolor Paint Shop info:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=8641.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=8641.0

Painting Over Chrome:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7025.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6389.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=11053.0

Engine Painting:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6949.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=9661.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=14075.0

Painting Headers
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=10404.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=12215.0

Problems with rattle can jobs and solutions:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=5285.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=3661.0

Clear Coating Extras:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=4435.0
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=489.0

Paint and supplies:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=12139.0

Masking and Taping:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=14445.0








« Last Edit: Mar 24, 2010, 14:33:08 by tWistedWheelz »

Offline Deviant1

  • Posts: 1868
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! or TUFF.....no more bomb!
« Reply #19 on: Oct 07, 2009, 15:38:26 »
Nice! Fairly comprehensive stuff there. Good job!
'That's the VJMC. They don't like us... because we cut shit up." -Tim @ Barber 2010