Author Topic: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!  (Read 251015 times)

Offline sarah_the_pest

  • Posts: 4
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! or more bomb!
« Reply #20 on: Oct 07, 2009, 16:12:47 »
This is ever so useful. Like others, I have just finished spraying my bike with cans and would definitely have benefitted from this first.

One comment, from experience, though. Read the label on the can carefully. I laquered one of my side panels, left it a day and recoated it. When it had dried, I had a beautifully crazed surface. When I read the small print, it stated that this laquer must not be overcoated after one hour of spraying. This was a petrol-proof lacquer, so I am not sure whether that makes a difference.

I like my final finish, though.


Offline sebatron

  • Posts: 521
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #21 on: Oct 15, 2009, 20:42:44 »
i've got access to a proper spray rig for the weekend so i'm gonna try that instead of rattlecanning... but as a guide, how many cans would you need to rattle a frame up?
i'm also trying to sort out how much paint i need to buy to do my frame and rims :)

Offline JRK5892

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Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #22 on: Oct 15, 2009, 21:02:31 »
realy to be honest... that depends on what kind of paint you use... some atomize so fast and you loose a bunch while other shoot thick... what you shooting (paint)
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Offline sebatron

  • Posts: 521
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #23 on: Oct 15, 2009, 21:39:52 »
giving some serious thought to POR15, but may use a less specific auto paint.

Offline locO leoN

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Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #24 on: Oct 16, 2009, 16:53:28 »
WOW.. What a fantastic post....
I hope no one would object if I Sticky this thread...I dont want this one lost...

Offline Deviant1

  • Posts: 1869
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #25 on: Oct 17, 2009, 11:33:30 »
Something I think should be in here is some info on the aerosol can spray-on bedliner. Some folks do small stuff with it, like parts that need a more durable coat, and I've seen tanks, tails, and wheels done in the stuff. On my bike I've got the kick lever, shifter, fork legs(they were pitted and the rough texture covered that nicely), headlight bucket(for texture), blinkers (pitted slightly), my starter cover, my license plate bracket, and other things I'm forgetting.
 As far as brands go the only two that I have experience with are plasticote spray on bedliner and rustoleum spray on bedliner. The plasticote will give you a firm, very rough textured coat. The rustoleum gives a smoother softer black, it also appears to be the more durable, but it doesn't quite have that rough tough bedliner look.
 When you get ready to apply the bedliner the first thing you need to do is to prep the object for the spray. If you haven't properly prepped what you're spraying the bedliner will flake off in the near future. I usually take a wire wheel to the part first, ridding it of all rust, paint, etc. If the part is chrome I usually rough it up pretty good, but I don't spend the time to remove all of the chrome. I'm sure it's preferable to do this, but I haven't had problems painting the bedliner over chrome if it's roughed up really well. After this you clean the part thoroughly and suspend it somehow to spray it. I usually hang the parts with wire tied to my garage door and spray outward. With the plasticote it's good to spray on a light coat, then a slightly heavier coat, then wait until that coat starts to tack and do one more pretty good coat. When doing these coats you'll want to be somewhere between 12 and 18 inches away from the part using the same strokes you use when spray painting. After this last coat starts to tack, spray a lighter coat from about 20 to 30 inches back. This throws the rougher texture onto the part and gives it the tough look. The rustoleum is applied the same way, it just doesn't get as rough as the plasticote does. It's advantage though, is that it has some give. I believe that if you laid it on real thick it would self-heal from scratches, gouges and such. I always give the parts about 24 hours before I'll handle them. If the humidity is high it might take longer.
Now about taping a spot off and spraying bedliner: That sucks. The bedliner doesn't like to be taped. When you do tape it and paint it, make sure you either get the tape off very quickly or try to run an exacto down the tape line before or while pulling it (that would be pretty ballsy as you could easily scratch the surface under the bedliner). Normally after I tape things off for bedliner, I have to go back with a fine brush and clean up the lines. I just spray the bedliner onto a sheet of paper and dip the paint brush in that. The brush will be pretty fucked after this but can clean it some after it's dry and use it for this kind of thing again.
That concludes my knowledge on this subject, but hopefully it'll help someone. If anybody has anything to add, please do, like experience with other brands(I hear duracoat makes a fine bedliner), different techniques, questions that aren't covered, anything. I think this thread is a great place for folks to come and learn as much as possible. It could turn into a huge collective of knowledge on paint techniques you can pull off in your garage for very little money. And very little money is nice! :D
« Last Edit: Oct 17, 2009, 11:37:39 by Deviant1 »
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Offline ridesolo

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Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #26 on: Oct 17, 2009, 11:49:50 »
Nice post, very good info.  I have often wondered about using the stuff but was unsure how it would work.  Thanx for the time you invested. 
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Offline HotelBushranger

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Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #27 on: Oct 18, 2009, 02:17:50 »
Great post, very handy. But re gloss paint jobs, what do you do with stripes? Do you apply it with the majority colour, sanding it all together, or completely finish the majority colour, then start with the striping?

Offline my94f2

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Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #28 on: Oct 20, 2009, 12:47:08 »
just remember with shaky can you must allow it to dry. i always wait at least 30 days before i cut and buff. enamel takes a long time to gas out and dry.
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Offline tWistedWheelz

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Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #29 on: Oct 20, 2009, 12:50:46 »
For stripes or painted on graphics you will need to complete the color coating all the way first, even the layer of clear at the end, then tape off after it has all cured and do your next color following all of the same steps in the color covering section on your second color (even the clearing again). Use an Exacto knife to cut the paint free from the taped line, be careful not to cut too deep, a little marking from the cut line is ok, due to the next steps. After removing tape, wet sand the entire object and prep for clear coating!

Hope that helps!

Thank you for thinking so highly of my thread! I hope this is one that can continue to be helpful to many others who share our same passion!
« Last Edit: Nov 05, 2009, 12:01:38 by tWistedWheelz »