collapse

www.dimecitycycles.com


www.restocycle.com

www.CITYLIMITMOTO.com

www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com

www.bisonmotorsports.com

www.speedmotoco.com

www.cognitomoto.com

www.townmoto.com

www.sparckmoto.com

www.Moto-Madness.com

www.pistonsociety.com

www.steeltowngarage.com


Author Topic: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!  (Read 223364 times)

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #30 on: Oct 20, 2009, 12:59:03 »
my92:
Not sure you have to wait 30 days but the longer you can hold off the better! Enamel does take a while to cure and different climates can vary those times. if it is not cured well when you sand or buff, it will move the paint and ruin all of your work! So it is a good idea to wait as long as possible.

Baking is a good way to set the paint! Wait about 1 hour after your last spray coat then put the object into the oven at 250 degrees for about 2 hours then remove it and allow the rest of your cure time to elapse. I have not used this very often; the better half of me does not like the smell of baking paint in the house! If anyone else has, please share your experience and process! Beware of the better half of your life if you decide to try this, I am just warning you in advance!

Offline boomshakalaka

  • Posts: 1604
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #31 on: Oct 20, 2009, 21:27:18 »
Im confused about the wash prep.  Body filler and primer are both porous so it would seem like a bad idea to get them wet with water.  Wont both of these trap water against the metal?

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #32 on: Oct 21, 2009, 12:54:32 »
Boom:
What you said could be true, but this is one of those catch 22 situations
When you sand body filler and putty it creates a fine powdery dust that gets trapped in those pores and settles all over your object, if you only tack prep, you may only move that dust around on your object and not remove it. If any of that is on the paint you are compromising the quality of your work. You could be compromising it by having water trapped in your body filler as well, but if you do all of the steps properly, you should have no problem. I have used this method many times with great success and no problems with “cancer rust” on items that I have painted and lived with for some time. With moister being under the paint, the major concern would be “cancer rust”. With the dust, your paint will not stick properly and may even get what I call the “pinhole effect” which is when you spray the object and it looks fine at first, but then develops small holes in the finish quickly. No matter how many times you go over it this just keeps happening!

Cheers
« Last Edit: Oct 27, 2009, 18:06:02 by tWistedWheelz »

Offline boomshakalaka

  • Posts: 1604
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #33 on: Oct 21, 2009, 18:08:23 »
ok cool, thanks for clearing that up.  Ill wash prep it then but Ill just try to not soak the bondo :)

Offline boomshakalaka

  • Posts: 1604
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #34 on: Oct 22, 2009, 02:39:09 »
man I suck at body work!  After the initial dusting I couldnt really see anything bad, but after my first 4 coats of primer there are def some shitty spots.  Looks like more bondo is in my future!

Offline borzwazie

  • Posts: 92
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #35 on: Oct 25, 2009, 18:48:04 »
here's what you can do with rattlecan and wetsanding...lots of wetsanding.



There's a bit of bondo under this as well - I hid the badge mounts and a couple little dings with bondo and filler primer. Still needs a buffing out and a wax, but I gotta let it dry first.
« Last Edit: Oct 25, 2009, 18:51:13 by borzwazie »

Offline forcefanajd

  • Posts: 1329
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #36 on: Oct 26, 2009, 18:15:56 »
something no one has mentioned yet which i think is crucial when using a spray bomb is that you should shake the cans for at least 10 minutes and SOAK the can with the cap on in the hottest tap water you can get for about 10-15 minutes.....you can even heat the water on the stove or in the microwave for a while if your tap doesn't get too hot.  by soaking the cans in the hot water you raise the internal pressure of the can and get much better and even coats.

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #37 on: Oct 27, 2009, 18:02:38 »
Thanks forcefan, that is a great point! I have used the method of warming the can in water and it works well, especially if it is cooler in the area you plan on srpaying. I live in south Alabama, so my cans are ussually warm enough! ;D Shaking the can vigorously for as long as posible is very important and I did fail to mention this earlier! Thanks again for the tips!
« Last Edit: Oct 27, 2009, 18:07:10 by tWistedWheelz »

Offline boomshakalaka

  • Posts: 1604
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #38 on: Oct 28, 2009, 04:56:02 »
when should filler primer be used as opposed to self etching primer or whatever other types can be found?

Offline tWistedWheelz

  • Posts: 3516
  • BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
« Reply #39 on: Oct 28, 2009, 09:15:32 »
As far as self etching primer goes, you only need to make one or two coats right on top of the metal itself, after that you can switch to filler primer.

Self etching primer uses a chemical reaction bond with metal surfaces, some tend to think this creates a better prime coat than regular primer coating. I don't really feel this way, if you are doing good body work and starting with a properly preped item, I think it makes no difference. If you are using it on an old discolored metal or on some alloy, it could be a good idea to use self etching to assure a good bond.

Filler primer is much thicker in viscosity and can hide some of the imperfections in body filler and the transitions of body filler to metal. NOTICE: I said some imperfections and I mean very small imperfections, it will not cover up F ups in body work! I always use filler primer on body work!