Header paint/coating vs Hammer?

My exhaust header needs to be driven in and out of the head with a big mallet.

Is there any hope that a particular high-temp paint or ceramic coating would survive this process??

Use a rubber hammer?

you could wrap the header

SONICJK said:

Use a rubber hammer?

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Well, yeah...still didn't think a coating would like being pounded on, rubber or not. But I have no experience with it, either--you think it'd be OK?

(Guess I should just email Jet-hot and ask...)



Desmo, wrap is certainly an option, and probably the easiest/cheapest. But then when my wreck of a bike ends up on Exif everyone's either gonna make fun of my mummy pipe or else wonder why I don't have Firestones, too...

You should make it fit, not force it. Header flanges sometimes have a little distortion where the seam is welded. Use a file to knock the high spots down where the interference happens. Forcing on a part that doesn't fit is simply shoddy work.

Any good paint should hold up to a rubber hammer just fine.

The rattle can options from VHT should hold up.
Personally I prefer high temp powder or ceramic because its real tough getting the chrome on stock pipes to hold paint for very long in my experience. But If you do go that route just make sure to thoroughly scuff up the surface.

SONICJK said:

Any good paint should hold up to a rubber hammer just fine.

The rattle can options from VHT should hold up.
Personally I prefer high temp powder or ceramic because its real tough getting the chrome on stock pipes to hold paint for very long in my experience. But If you do go that route just make sure to thoroughly scuff up the surface.

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I was going to try and strip the chrome before painting or coating--it's pretty crappy so I figured a good soak in easy-off oven cleaner or something would get it to loosen up nicely.

I didn't know there was powder that would hold up to the temps needed for a header.

AlphaDogChoppers said:

You should make it fit, not force it. Header flanges sometimes have a little distortion where the seam is welded. Use a file to knock the high spots down where the interference happens. Forcing on a part that doesn't fit is simply shoddy work.

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It's an interference fit; it needs to be hammered in and out. (edit: That is, interference is the only thing retaining the pipe in the head--it simply shoves in. There's no flange, no clamp, etc.) Or am I missing something?

AgentX said:

It's an interference fit; it needs to be hammered in and out. (edit: That is, interference is the only thing retaining the pipe in the head--it simply shoves in. There's no flange, no clamp, etc.) Or am I missing something?

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Never heard of an exhaust with no clamp or flange. What bike/engine is it?

Regarding stripping chrome, oven cleaner won't touch it. I use oven cleaner to clean melted boot sole and raingear from chrome pipes. To apply any coating to a chrome pipe, the surface needs some "tooth." Sandblasting is the best way to prep exhaust pipes, and it's what I do, because I can. (I sandblast everyfuckingthing!) You can also use sandpaper, like 1" wide emery strips. It's a lot more work, and has never worked quite as well for me.

AlphaDogChoppers said:

Never heard of an exhaust with no clamp or flange. What bike/engine is it?

Regarding stripping chrome, oven cleaner won't touch it. I use oven cleaner to clean melted boot sole and raingear from chrome pipes. To apply any coating to a chrome pipe, the surface needs some "tooth." Sandblasting is the best way to prep exhaust pipes, and it's what I do, because I can. (I sandblast everyfuckingthing!) You can also use sandpaper, like 1" wide emery strips. It's a lot more work, and has never worked quite as well for me.

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It's an Enfield. I think later model Triumphs used this system as well, or at least my "how to restore your motorcycle" book says they did. No personal experience.

I know I'm not missing anything in this respect...the pipe is definitely made to do this. It's an annoying thing, too. Enfield owners struggle with pipe expanders, RTV sealant, beer-can shims, and lots of other remedies to get the poorly quality-controlled parts to seal properly. I was actually considering trying to rig a way to attach exhaust springs to the head at one point.


You'll see some Enfields with fake finned exhaust clamps on them for cosmetics and supposed "better cooling" but it's just a charade.


I was thinking I'd have someone blast the pipe for me, but thought maybe I could get away with some other home de-chroming. Had read EZ-off would work. I've only used it to remove anodization previously, so I appreciate the tip...especially as I have some melted nylon on my current pipe.

Worth the money to have it blasted.

The ceramic paints, (including VHT,) are very picky about surface prep. After blasting, avoid touching with anything but cotton gloves or very clean hands. Blow off with compressed air to get any grit off the surface. DON'T clean with solvent.

Standard powder will not hold up on a head pipe. High temp powders are too finicky and I don't offer them anymore because even after proper prep this stuff has a tendency to fail and flake off. Ceramic is best for heat retention but it is no where near as durable as powder and I have seen too many people pull into the DIY car wash and blast there headers and the ceramic right off them.
My exhaust pipes are held into the head with a spring and are solid mounted further down stream to keep them from moving.