Simplified Wiring Digrams

Can somebody please do a quick check of this simplified wiring diagram for me? It's basically stock CB/CL 350 with a PAMCO instead of the points, a Kohler Regulator/Rectifier, simplified switches, and no dash lights. Everything looks okay to me but I went a little crazy in Photoshop erasing wires and want to make sure that I didn't take out a connection that is needed.

 
Thank you BarnBurner for making it. I think it will work for my build, or at least for the most part. Thanks for taking the time to make and post it.
 
Yamaha XS Triple with no turn signals or idiot lights.
High beam wired to high beam always on.
 

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Sonreir said:
Barebones diagram for the Honda twins and singles. Only enough to get the bike running and keep it that way. No lights, signals, or gauges included. Though not pictured, I recommend a 5A fuse on the black wire leading to the coils.

If you're running a total loss setup you wouldn't need the regulator/rectifier "branch" would you?
 
nixoid said:
If you're running a total loss setup you wouldn't need the regulator/rectifier "branch" would you?

Correct. Just power straight from the battery to the coils (usually with a switch in between).
 
Sonreir said:
Correct. Just power straight from the battery to the coils (usually with a switch in between).

That is so easy it just didn't seem right. Thanks for the info.

Kevin
 
nixoid said:
That is so easy it just didn't seem right. Thanks for the info.

Kevin

That assumes you're using points, however. Gets trickier with some of the electronic ignition systems.
 
Sonreir said:
Either of those are fine.

Those must ground through the case? Very clean. I like it.

Sonreir do you know of any R/R units that regulate to a higher voltage? (Like 30v, for instance?)

-Deek
 
ILoveThumpers said:
Those must ground through the case? Very clean. I like it.

Sonreir do you know of any R/R units that regulate to a higher voltage? (Like 30v, for instance?)

-Deek

Not off the top of my head. For what purpose?
 
Sonreir said:
Not off the top of my head. For what purpose?

I had toyed with the idea of using a high-powered LED package as a headlamp but they always have forward voltage requirements well over 12v. To avoid adding a DC to DC converter, I thought about regulating up to 30v for the headlamp and using another regulator to run my 12v components.

-Deek
 
I think the DC/DC converter would be a better option, especially since LEDs are generally low current devices.
Google "30V LED Driver" and find something that can handle the current level you need.
 
Sonreir said:
That assumes you're using points, however. Gets trickier with some of the electronic ignition systems.

This is a USCRA F160 racer so I have to keep the points. If I decide to move to 200 GP I believe I can abandon points. Would there be a lot of re-engineering to upgrade to an electronic set-up?

Kev
 
nixoid said:
This is a USCRA F160 racer so I have to keep the points. If I decide to move to 200 GP I believe I can abandon points. Would there be a lot of re-engineering to upgrade to an electronic set-up?

Kev

Depends on the setup. Most aftermarket units are pretty straightforward, but the stock units can be a bit more complicated.
 
Thanks for these fellas...great info here. I'm want to wire up my GS650 from scratch. Any major changes for the 4-cylinder from something really simple, like Sonrier's first example?
 
In the first example I don't include much wiring for the ignition system and that would be a concern (especially if your ignition is electronic). Also take a look at the alternator and charging system as those will almost definitely be different.
 
Thanks Sonreir...can I PM you with questions? Are you still selling custom harnesses? That might be the way to go...you do nice work
 
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