"Motorsports style" wiring on a cb350f.
- Thread starter Rogue
- Start date
High On Octane
Ton Up or Shut Up
I built my custom harness completely from scratch. Cost me about $50 and took about 10 hours to do.
High On Octane
Ton Up or Shut Up
Electrical starts on page 2. Keep in mind, I have a very basic harness, as I don't need turn signals in Colorado. Otherwise, about the same as any other harness.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63731.0
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63731.0
This is my first draw up of the direction I think I want to go with the harness. I plan to use an LED strip tail light with blinkers, LED front blinkers, Dyna Ignition, and Ricks R/R. I want to put the Ignition switch and Hi Beam switch into the headlight housing. As long as the Neutral Indicator and Oil PSI light also in the headlight housing. No starter. I plan to use the Posh handlebar switches for the Horn and Indicator lights. And I think I'm leaning towards an Antigravity battery.
Make sure to swap the connectors from the R/R to go to the battery before the fuse. Also, your points don't require power. Turn signal relay can also be swapped to a two prong model. The only other thing I would suggest is to include a kill switch, but I know that's a matter of preference to many.
davidstipek
New Member
Rogue
Only other thing I did to your basic diagram as posted was 2 things....
1. added brake switch to clutch side so as a pre condition anytime clutch used brake light would come on... alerting those behind me to be aware...
2.as added kill switch... this was nice when at night if I needed headlight on I could also kill engine and walk bike to where it needed to be (with lights). My bike originally had Headlight and turn signals wired 12VAC,,,, I changed everything to be wired as 12VDC and fused each circuit. (Brake Light, Tail Light, Headlight Low beam, Headlight high beam, starter, turn signals/horn etc. I ended with a 7 fuse panel 1 Master fuse and 6 circuits.
Look at your horn circuit ground is going from horn to turn relay.... but to no existing ground circuit.... you can connect to circuit @ battery. As Soneir suggested use 2 prong relay then and you can remove 12VDC+ (red) wire, works great. If you chose to add kill switch clip 12VDC+ wire feeding Ignition coils and Contact breaker and add in circuit here. This way if you open kill switch you only kill engine and not lights!!! Can be in certain conditions very benificial
. This way if you see oil pressure light on and engine won't start and lights work... you know key is on and kill switch open! ) .
Only other thing I did to your basic diagram as posted was 2 things....
1. added brake switch to clutch side so as a pre condition anytime clutch used brake light would come on... alerting those behind me to be aware...
2.as added kill switch... this was nice when at night if I needed headlight on I could also kill engine and walk bike to where it needed to be (with lights). My bike originally had Headlight and turn signals wired 12VAC,,,, I changed everything to be wired as 12VDC and fused each circuit. (Brake Light, Tail Light, Headlight Low beam, Headlight high beam, starter, turn signals/horn etc. I ended with a 7 fuse panel 1 Master fuse and 6 circuits.
Look at your horn circuit ground is going from horn to turn relay.... but to no existing ground circuit.... you can connect to circuit @ battery. As Soneir suggested use 2 prong relay then and you can remove 12VDC+ (red) wire, works great. If you chose to add kill switch clip 12VDC+ wire feeding Ignition coils and Contact breaker and add in circuit here. This way if you open kill switch you only kill engine and not lights!!! Can be in certain conditions very benificial
. This way if you see oil pressure light on and engine won't start and lights work... you know key is on and kill switch open! ) .Thanks for the input. All good things. I wasn't aware the regulator needed unfused battery contact. And I have been debating if I want to do a kill switch or not. I didn't add anything to this first layout because I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible. Also I will be running a dyna ignition instead of points and as far as I can tell it require a 12v feed correct? Again thanks for input guys. Hope to get things moving on this to post some actual pictures of it.
So should the white and green wires when taken apart and out of the motor have continuity between them? Mine does.
If power goes into it and its just a coil then comes out to ground why would it matter which one was getting the power as long as the other was connected to ground?
If power goes into it and its just a coil then comes out to ground why would it matter which one was getting the power as long as the other was connected to ground?
