Clear coat on bare metal tank?

A36B69A8-AA40-4689-9BAA-36C722AEA186.jpg


Just did this tank a few days ago. I let some of the metal show through. Ground the texture, shot clear, then masked off the areas I wanted to leave metal showing and shot a single stage black. The grinded texture looks great in the sun.
 
Dang, that looks great. A pinstripe on the bare metal/black border would really make it pop.

What did you use to grind the texture?




Scratcher09 said:
A36B69A8-AA40-4689-9BAA-36C722AEA186.jpg


Just did this tank a few days ago. I let some of the metal show through. Ground the texture, shot clear, then masked off the areas I wanted to leave metal showing and shot a single stage black. The grinded texture looks great in the sun.
Scratcher09 said:
 
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I used a 120 grit sanding disk on an angle grinder. I also sometimes use 80 grit for more course marks.
 
Stripped it down and sanded it to get the look I wanted...



Used the can of SprayMax 2K I had. Turned out a little glossier than I would have liked, but it looks great and is fuel resistant.




 
Dammit man, you need a disclaimer before those pictures. I just wasted 20 mins staring at those pictures.
 
FGKouki said:
Avoid rattle can clearcoat- even 2k clearcoat, and clear powder (unless you leave low grit scratches). You need to use a product meant for adhering to polished bare metal such as por15 glisten pc or shark hide if you want it to last more than a few seasons.

I've had good luck with POR15 clear as well, and it holds up well to fuel drips and spills.
 
Scott S, it looks great!

I have some front forks with Glisten PC on them. After a dozen years or so, they still look like I did them yesterday.
 
That came out good, you did a good job spraying it. I think if one were to use a satin clear coat, you would end up with a more "raw" and "natural" finish. Just a thought. :)
 
I know. I just used what I had on hand. That entire "paint job" was done using stuff I had in the garage. I have zero dollars in it.
 
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