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That's a real interesting observation about CB900.
In the mid 80's I spent a few years 'specialising' in cam chain replacement on CB900.
It makes a lot of sense, I wondered why chain could deflect sideways enough to saw a slot in cam tunnel and not totally destroy the guide (they were always badly beat up though)
Some people wanted 'quick' so chain was split and re-riveted, others wanted 'by the book' so motor got a full strip down.
Others, no choice but fit a 'new' cylinder block as I couldn't find anyone who could weld up the damage (at least not without it leaking)
Never got into it too deep as majority were obviously poor/no service and chain was very slack/worn out. I guess making a spacer to move guide closer to chain should be the answer.
Just goes to show, Honda engineer's are not infallible
About the only 'defence', there was a complete change in the motorcycle department, all the 'old' guys got shifted to the car division and all the new guys did the new designs - 'it worked on paper'
It's all about the way that a chain "clings" to the sprocket. Static the chain run in tension looks like it comes straight off the sprocket and straight onto the next sprocket. In a running motor, the chain continues to rotate around the sprocket giving it a curve away from the guide blade. That's why some motors have a curved blade on teh side opposite the tensioner that makes no sense until it does.
A motor like the CB160/175/200 has a huge gap between chain and head to allow for all that slapping and s curving etc and they still dig grooves in the head and barrels. At the very least any motor could use a stiff guide on the tension side. Check ignition timing on an OHC motor with points on the cam while it's running flat out on a dyno and you won't believe your eyes. First time I checked that way back in the late seventies on a CB72 (350) I thought it was a problem with the timing light - until I worked out what was happening.
Yes, but my bike was a 350cc CB72. When bored to 64mm the liner could be seen through the gaps in the fins. After that I used 305 barrels which had a little more meat in the barrels to take oversized liners. I bought a couple of CB750 barrels with damaged fins as a cheap source of liners and they had to be shortened to fit and a scallop cut to clear all the studs. I used to take 3mm plus off the heads plus machine a squish band to match the pistons which were heavily modified CB350 items. We ran methanol so high compression was a must. That was all a very long time ago
My first real bike was a 57 T100 that I fitted a T120 Thruxton lightweight crank in it for the extra 2mm of stoke and higher compression. My first small bike had a Villiers 1H 225cc single motor which I ported by hand and fitted an expansion chamber. Brought up that way and can't seem to cure it. I tried an all OEM VFR750 for a while. It was beautiful and smooth and perfect and soul less so I sold it and kept the RZ with chambers. The last couple of bikes I built started as a pile of bits form different sources. It's some sort of recurring mental disorder I'm afraid.
Next, I'm trying to fit a banshee clutch and cover etc onto an old aircooled RD350 crankcase and seems to me that with a little machining and welding it can be done.
Doctor, why are those men in white coats looking at me that way?.....
You and me both ;D
I don't remember ever owning a Triumph, my brothers may tell me different story though (I don't remember owning a GT500 but brother said my name was on registration? He painted it yellow and named it 'The Flying Banana' (as you know, they 'bend in the middle 8) )
had a beautiful silvery sheen when we changed the oil. Also the cam chain jumped a few teeth. Thinking about notching a stay in the cam chain plunger. Thoughts? That pressure wave is a doozy.
The pig tale for the hot and ground coming off the new rectifier need to be 24"....going to the fuse panel. Here are the dimensions from the current rectifier down the backbone. The harness will go through a 24mm hole and down the backbone to the Stator.
We are building a battery box in the location where I am holding the battery...easy access. We are planning on running the battery cables back to the fuse panel. These cables are massive I am going to go down in size going into the fuse box.
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(they just keys too close together ;D )
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