Powder Coating or Spray Paint

Powder coating a motorcycle frame locally has been quoted at $600 for me. The body shop wants more than that for single stage black. Bullshit.

I'll spray it outside with deadly 2k and hold my breath before I pay that.
 
cosworth said:
Powder coating a motorcycle frame locally has been quoted at $600 for me. The body shop wants more than that for single stage black. Bullshit.

I'll spray it outside with deadly 2k and hold my breath before I pay that.
Where is locally for you?
 
Vancouver Island. See in Canada, Anything we get shipped from the states people tack outrageous shipping fees onto. A rocker arm from Tennessee example was quoted to me having $67 shipping. A freaking rocker arm.

Building bikes here is not cheap. Ebay.ca is a joke. There is nothing on it from Canada. So the price of everything here is out of whack really. I paid waaaaay too much to get my tank done professionally. $900. But the guys who will do it for $500 are backyard guys and take forever.
 
I'd say send the frame to 01Marc and get a proper job done. It's unlikely that you will strip the bike at a later date after rattle canning it for now. Just make sure any tabs needed or removed are sorted before you hit it with paint or powder.

I used to be a big fan of painting frames in 2k as I am able to do this, but powder is way better.
 
Ichiban Moto said:
It costs me $1.20 to send five out of five Ichiban Moto stickers to Canada
Does it? What would it cost if the envelope were empty? So wouldn't the stickers be free to send. ???
 
do it right the first time and get it coated 2 stage color and clear,, its worth the money, don't rattle can it, even with rattle can clear it will fade and yellow before you know it.
 
its_nuche said:
do it right the first time and get it coated 2 stage color and clear,, its worth the money, don't rattle can it, even with rattle can clear it will fade and yellow before you know it.

Adding a clear coat to a black powder coating job is a waste of money and totally unnecessary. The clear is no more durable than the black. It also adds unnecessary thickness to it.
 
High On Octane said:
$125 if pretty damn cheap to have a frame powder coated, I'd do that. But out of curiosity, did you even try getting the bike to run before you tore it down? I've seen a lot of people jump right in and tear everything apart before they even have a clue of what they need. They put the bike all back together after all the paint and add on parts only to find out it doesn't even run and don't know what to do to get it running.

And just my 2 cents here........ I don't know what your "budget" is, but if you are already having trouble coming up with $225 for blasting and powder coat, you are in for a rude awakening. I don't think I've ever spent less than about $1800 restoring a bike. Parts add up really fast. I've been working on and riding my bike for about 3 years, and it still isn't completely finished. But here are all of my receipts that I am scared to add up. I know it's well over $2K, maybe even $3K.






This hits way too close to home with me, if I can throw in any advice I have to say please please PLEASE listen to him on the making sure it is mechanically sound before you move on to the pretty stuff. I went ball's deep into my project bike (sorry for the image) before making sure it was running right, got all of my parts painted and such, and then after putting it together ran into a billion problems including having to rebuild the motor, in this process of swapping parts in and out I have really made my powder job much less pretty because of this.
 
Very surprised to have never seen VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint mentioned on this site anywhere. Used in conjuction with duplicolor self etch primer it is a fantastic and strong DIY finish that is easily repairable.

Remember that very often paint was good enough for the manufacturers. Many of my frames get Imron.

That being said, simply based on his comments, if I was getting powder coat I'd be talkin to somebody like 01marc. Powdercoat is something you want to get right the first time, and in my experience, assholes generally do good work. ;D
 
DohcBikes said:
Very surprised to have never seen VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint mentioned on this site anywhere. Used in conjuction with duplicolor self etch primer it is a fantastic and strong DIY finish that is easily repairable.

Remember that very often paint was good enough for the manufacturers. Many of my frames get Imron.

That being said, simply based on his comments, if I was getting powder coat I'd be talkin to somebody like 01marc. Powdercoat is something you want to get right the first time, and in my experience, assholes generally do good work. ;D
Hey, I resemble that remark. ;)
Paint was good enough for manufacturers, so was drum brakes that didn't work very well. But manufacturers even including auto manufacturers now are all switching over to powder due to it's incredible benefits over paint.
 
powder is great, but what about when you scratch it or it chips? not really much you can do to fix that, is there?
 
kimjay said:
powder is great, but what about when you scratch it or it chips? not really much you can do to fix that, is there?

Really? Why can't you fix it with paint just like you would if it were paint that chipped?
And again you are missing the whole point of powder coating. It so durable that it is 10x's less likely to chip or scratch than paint.
Powder can be touched and can be wet sanded and cut and polished just like paint.
 
Drum brakes are still used by manufacturers. Powder really didn't take off until the 80's in manufacturing. Film thickness was too much to make sense for most manufacturing applications back then. Technology and cost has improved exponentially over the last 20 years, which is why it's just recently starting to take off.
 
My blasting technician,who blasted my tins for my RD project, warned me NEVER ever to bring him any powdercoated stuff.
Dunno if he's right but he said that the plastic film melts in the process and is extemely hard to take off again, so i guess when one powders the frame,parts should stay like that forever :)
 
Ryan Stecken said:
My blasting technician,who blasted my tins for my RD project, warned me NEVER ever to bring him any powdercoated stuff.
Dunno if he's right but he said that the plastic film melts in the process and is extemely hard to take off again, so i guess when one powders the frame,parts should stay like that forever :)
That's correct, my blaster ups the bill by 50-75% if it's powder because it takes so much more work to remove. I normally will use a chemical stipper to strip the part before blasting so the blaster is just cleaning them up and not going hog wild trying to remove heavy powder. This keeps my blast bill down and the potential from incompetent blast damage.
 
miffa said:
Nickel plating used to be the thing, mainly used on the older race bikes, fantastic finish really durable but my word it’s so expensive nowadays ,a nice alternative is chromacoat very similar process to powder coating but gives a alloy finish ,great for rims and really cheap
You think plating is expensive now? Wait till the new EPA regulations on tank venting go into effect in 2016, You'll see quite a few platers going out of business and the price rising even more.
 
I think that before you decide on how to finish your frame you need to come up with a plan after assessing what you want to do with your bike. Add up the costs, you may not want to spend what it will take. Powder coating is the best for a frame but it will be a small part of your expenses in your build. I would suggest that for now, get it running properly and safely so you can start riding it and pick up the custom parts as you can afford them, when you get her mostly done then strip her down and get someone like marc do do a nice finish. Shopping for and receiving shiny new doodads in the mail is fun too, if not as much and blasting around on your scoot that you built yourself, that is fukin A.
 
o1marc said:
Really? Why can't you fix it with paint just like you would if it were paint that chipped?
And again you are missing the whole point of powder coating. It so durable that it is 10x's less likely to chip or scratch than paint.
Powder can be touched and can be wet sanded and cut and polished just like paint.

I am only going on my 2 frames that i had powder coated. I'm not an expert and i posed my comment as a question more that a statement. I just found that it chipped fairly easy if you caught a edge, and yes i touched it up but the powder is thicker so it didn't look great touched up. So I don't think its 10X less likely, and i have done many many bikes over years so i'm not new to restoring/customizing bikes. But i do see a lot of advantages to powder also.
 
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