You have photos of it mounted? I'm a little confused it's sold as a throttle and switch unit? They need to go together? I already ordered a whiskey throttle.danker16 said:http://scootertuning.ca/en/styling-parts/13067-throttle-kit-stage6-cnc-type-black.html
I wanted to achieve the same as you and I went with this set they are very compact. the throttle side I mounted it upside down so the start button is operated with my thumb instead of the index finger and hides the ugly plastic on top. it uses 5mm conduit so i had to modify the throttle cable it came with. works perfect, except I now need to figure out an engine stop switch
You know what bar size they are for and if it's possible to grind down that mirror holder?danker16 said:thats the left hand controls, i dont have mine assembled right now
They are 7/8and the mirror is a 8mm hole at thr top. You can just plug itquadracer351 said:You know what bar size they are for and if it's possible to grind down that mirror holder?
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How much.Sonreir said:Yeah. Customization is the plan. Most micro switches for electrical use a 1/4" threaded shank and come in a lot of varieties.
I actually have two quotes out right now that I'm looking to finalize pretty soon.
If you want one in plastic I can print you one, though.
snmavridis said:How much.
Either and/or both?Sonreir said:For the plastic one or the final metal version?
I'll PM you. I'm placing my order tonight so we can talk about all that. If you don't mind id like a bit of your input on what I should need for my bike.Sonreir said:Metal might be a couple of months out, but I'd be happy to send a plastic one over for $10. $20 if you need me to supply the switches (let me know which switches/buttons you need/want).
Can buttons be latching and used high/low? I'm looking at your site now definitely going to purchase the led headlight, and diodes, and maybe the flasher. If I use your flasher for led lights do I still need the resistor? Also do I need a diode for every dummy light in my acewell or only the indicators??Sonreir said:Here are a couple of pics of the black plastic one attached on my moped.
Left switch controls the kill for the engine as well as the headlight power to the second switch (always on headlight, but only when the engine is on). Right switch up is high beam plus auxiliary lights and switch down is just the normal headlight.
The plastic is just from my 3d printer. It's a mock up of the aluminum ones soon to come.
quadracer351 said:Can buttons be latching and used high/low? I'm looking at your site now definitely going to purchase the led headlight, and diodes, and maybe the flasher. If I use your flasher for led lights do I still need the resistor? Also do I need a diode for every dummy light in my acewell or only the indicators??
Sounds good I'll end up getting that plastic version in white for now with the two stitches until you have the aluminum ones made up, my gauge has a dummy light for the left indicator and one for the right indicator, so two diodes? And a third resistor for the flasher?Sonreir said:I haven't found any latching buttons that will fit just yet, but we do have momentary buttons and a variety of switches. I'm using an on/off switch for the kill and an on/on switch for the headlight. I also have on/off/on switches.
No resistors needed if you use our flasher relay. Diodes are if you have a single warning light for turn signals instead of two. Diodes not needed for other warning lights.
quadracer351 said:Sounds good I'll end up getting that plastic version in white for now with the two stitches until you have the aluminum ones made up, my gauge has a dummy light for the left indicator and one for the right indicator, so two diodes? And a third resistor for the flasher?
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