CB360 - Clean and simple

NoRiders said:
Liking this build...maybe mount a dummy disc/caliper or cut n polish the old mounts off?

Don't get me wrong....but if you're worried about how to modify the front spindle how will you cope with a mono-shock conversion? There's more to it than just a few brackets welded on to the frame by all accounts. Check out threads on here where folk are attempting it....interesting information from those what know better.

Carry on chap.... ;D

I'm trying to keep the single rotor as a tribute to the original look, so probably I'll just cut off the extra mount.

Also I'm not worried about modifying the front spindle/hub/etc, I just don't want to reinvent the wheel so to speak ::)

Just a bit off topic but here's a summary of my last project...
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And I'm a mechanical engineer, so it's less about coping and more about what do I think I'd like better 8)

Plus I don't have access to a machine shop, so if I can swap out bearings instead of having to turn a new axle, that'd be ideal.

crazypj said:
I've already done a couple of GSXR front ends onto 360 (even though one ended up going to Australia for Neevo on his CB400f)

This is before steering stem was modified but with stock wheel assembled and CBR600 rotors/calipers (with adapters)
I used a Suzuki Katana front axle and made spacers for it to fit into the oversized holes in fork bottoms. The spacers allow wheel to be properly centered (slid to side in pic to show how it was done)

I've seen those pictures before :) What diameter axle does the front ends you used have? The front end I got has a 25mm diameter so the ends are even larger than that.

I don't think I'll be able to find an axle that both fits in the forks and fits in the wheel unless I can use larger bearings - which I don't know if there's the space in the hub.

Does anyone have pictures/measurements of the inside of the hub without the bearings installed?
 
tnum said:
I found this on google,
CB360floatchamberside.jpg

Thats one of mine as well, I got carried away with jets and forgot to remove 'jet' on the blanking screw ;D
As I said, I used a Katana axle , the original fork legs were for a 25mm axle but I also have an earlier set of forks with 20mm axle (I think 2006?)
 
crazypj said:
Thats one of mine as well, I got carried away with jets and forgot to remove 'jet' on the blanking screw ;D
As I said, I used a Katana axle , the original fork legs were for a 25mm axle but I also have an earlier set of forks with 20mm axle (I think 2006?)

Nice :)

I guess I'm confused by the overside holes part in this statement "I used a Suzuki Katana front axle and made spacers for it to fit into the oversized holes in fork bottoms. The spacers allow wheel to be properly centered (slid to side in pic to show how it was done)"

If you're saying a Katana axle will both bolt up to the GSXR forks and allow the stock wheel to fit with the 15mm bearings then I need to start shopping. Of course spacers will need to be made but that sounds a lot easier than having a new axle machined.
 
I turned up some spacers to fit into the bottom of forks then drilled for the Katana axle.
Basically, thick wall tube to fit forks with wheel spacers 'built in' so axle can locate and tighten up
If you look at the lower picture, the axle is fitted into a counter-bore, I made it so a 17mm socket will fit onto axle nut inside the spacer
When the axle is tightened up, the complete wheel assembly can be moved side to side to center wheel in forks.
If you have fork legs that are threaded on one side it makes a more rigid set up as you make a threaded 'tube' with wheel spacer built in and thread the center hole for smaller diameter axle.
Only r4eason for using Katana axle, it was the right diameter and length to span fork bottoms
 
The new jets came in and I had a chance to look at the springs.

Looks like I'll be keeping the originals as pointed out earlier.
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Also thoughts on this new jet? It seems to fit and have the same (or very similar) sized hole but is much taller than the one I took out...
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I'm not too worried about it, just wondering if I didn't get the correct part or something.
 
Thats the right primary main from jetsrus. As I mentioned earlier I had mine modified to match originals.
 
trek97 said:
Thats the right primary main from jetsrus. As I mentioned earlier I had mine modified to match originals.

Oh right! thanks.

J-Rod10 said:
Hot damn, this is an old thread.

Maybe a old question from a new user? Not an old thread though :(
 
tnum said:
Oh right! thanks.

Maybe a old question from a new user? Not an old thread though :(

Ha, I was 3/4 asleep this morning. I went to post that on another thread. Wondered where it went. Figured I didn't actually hit post.

My bad!
 
Got the first carb put back together... forgot the big spring though. Also need to double check those ports in the top to make sure they are in the right place.
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Also started cleaning out the other carb.
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The float pin was frozen and had to be gingerly tapped out and after a little while in the carb cleaner a lot of the dark varnish came right off.

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Got the other carb cleaned and rebuilt.
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Here's a before/after.
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Also replacing the phillips head screws with allen key cap screws as I go.
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And finally, I didn't realize these were hollow until I gave them some extra attention.
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Started to tear the engine down a bit more this weekend too.

Cam channels look pretty good.
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Insides don't look too bad either.
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Some scoring on the middle cam journal...can you feel them with your finger?

Does your engine have the two . marks above and below the dash in the engine serial number for repair of factory recalls?
 
adventurco said:
Some scoring on the middle cam journal...can you feel them with your finger?

Does your engine have the two . marks above and below the dash in the engine serial number for repair of factory recalls?
His pic shows the new tensioner. The curls on the end of the bad one go the other direction. About midway through 75 and all of 76 the rockers and tensioners were replaced at the factory, so there won't be marks on those motors.
 
deviant said:
His pic shows the new tensioner. The curls on the end of the bad one go the other direction. About midway through 75 and all of 76 the rockers and tensioners were replaced at the factory, so there won't be marks on those motors.

I drew a line with a sharpie to help make the scratch more clear. It will slightly catch the edge of my fingernail but I don't think it's nearly as deep as it might look in the picture.
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adventurco said:
Some scoring on the middle cam journal...can you feel them with your finger?

Does your engine have the two . marks above and below the dash in the engine serial number for repair of factory recalls?

These? I was wondering what those meant.
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Seems as if the engine has been replaced from a CB360E since the VIN on the engine doesn't match the VIN on the frame. I don't think that's good or bad though unless the "E" notes something I don't want.
 
Engine VIN's don't ever match. But yes, those are the marks. I have no idea what year the bike is, but by that I would guess 74 or early 75.
 
deviant said:
Engine VIN's don't ever match. But yes, those are the marks. I have no idea what year the bike is, but by that I would guess 74 or early 75.

March 1974 according to the frame.
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tnum said:
These? I was wondering what those meant.

Yep. There were 2 factory recalls on the CB360 - one for the cam chain tensioner and one for the rocker arms. The punch marks indicate that the work was performed and the problems were remedied, as deviant stated. Otherwise you'd be buying a cam chain tensioner ;D

tnum said:
Seems as if the engine has been replaced from a CB360E since the VIN on the engine doesn't match the VIN on the frame. I don't think that's good or bad though unless the "E" notes something I don't want.

Honda, and other Japanese manufacturers use the 'E' to designate an engine serial number from a frame serial number. Most motorcycles are titled by the frame serial number, so the engine # is mostly for reference I believe.

The journal looks like its got plenty of smoke left in it. You'd know for sure if it was really toast :eek:
 
There was also a recall to fit a wiring harness guide and a couple of things I forget
I think Trek has the full list, I pulled some stuff from some Honda CD's I was given several years ago
I would polish the journal a bit,
Get some 3/8"~1/2" dia bar, (about 8"~10" long) hacksaw a slot length-ways in one end, wrap a bunch of 1" emery around it
Stick it in a power drill and go to town ;) (DIY extended length 'flap wheel')
 
I dont remember a wiring harness guide. But compiling a full list isnt the worst idea. :)

The flap wheel in a drill idea sounds a bit aggressive. ;D It dont look so bad to me in the pics. maybe just some light polishing w extra fine emory and a drop of oil. or scotch brite pad. be certain to flush really good when finished.
 
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