CB360 barn find (actually pulled from a barn)

Completely disassemble the carbs, fill the ultrasonic cleaner with Pine Sol (you can dilute it, but you don't have to), put the parts in, then let it run. I've had decent results with the paint can of parts cleaner that Autozone and places like that sell, but I feel like they sludge up too much.
 
Alright, I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner yesterday and cleaned the carbs with Pine-sol. It worked pretty dang good.

I ran into two things during final disassembly of the carbs that I need some help on. The right side carb had been taken apart before from the looks of it. The brass pin that holds the float in on the right side carb is bent. The thing was a bear to get out, so I may have bent it further when removing it. What are my options here? I forgot to get a picture of it, I might be able to bend it back in the vice but that doesn't seem promising.

Second, the spring on the little flapper thing on the choke side of the right side carb is broken. The flap moves freely with no resistance. The left side carb the flab stays shut, but does open when pushed on. Again, what do I need to do here? Ebay time to try and find a spare carb?











I didn't have time to get the motor out of the bike this weekend but it's almost ready. Going to try to get it done tonight.
 
For the choke flapper, you could source another spring.
I had this same issue on one of my carbs, but I just bent the end of the spring straight out so that it would be in contact with the flapper.
It doesn't need much spring pressure, just enough to return to flat.
 
best damn carb cleaner for internal parts you can buy over the counter period.

fetch


If you want to get serious buy a PrestoKleen agitator

907501_lg.jpg


The spring as mentioned can be fixed by inspecting the other to see in what clock position you need to bend a stop leg out then reinstall, its a choke and most don't even have a anti flood door so spring tension is not a concern.

Fish
 
Common-Motors was awesome enough to send me a float pin for free for my carbs so I got that covered. Those guys are awesome over there.

Anyways, I got ahold of CrazyPJ and am going to send him my carbs to rebuild and modify to run pods. I figure I will let someone who knows what they are doing put them together so I know it's done right.

I was able to get the motor out of the bike Monday night. I've been traveling for work all week so I haven't had time to update my thread. Here are a few pictures. Notice the right side exhaust port has some pretty heavy corrosion. I'm trying to decide if I should just tear the top end apart and clean/rebuild or just leave it as is, adjust valves/timing/cam chain tensioner, and hope it's all good. At the end of the day it's not that big of a deal to pull the motor out of the frame, so this may be the route I go. I still need to check compression, which I should probably have done before I pulled the motor. Can this still be done motor out with out to much issue or will it be hard to turn the motor over with it sitting on the bench?

Next step is to powerwash the frame and start getting it cleaned it. It's got some rust in spots that need taken care of and some extra tabs and stuff that will be removed. I will probably mock everything back up and make sure the bike runs before I send the frame out for blasting and powder coating. I would hate to have finally assembly go smooth then to have a failure with the engine.

I have my stock wiring harness which is in pretty decent shape, although it is pretty dirty and some of the wiring sheathing and connections are fairly brittle. I'm hoping to run some sort of simplified hand controls, gauges, and headlight/turn/taillight, so I'm on the fence about making my own harness. I hate electrical work and chasing electrical gremlins down. I spent sometime trying to find a custom wiring diagram but haven't found what I want yet so I'll keep looking.











Thanks everyone for following along with this and for the input. I'd like to have this finished up this summer which I think is a pretty attainable goal. I'm just hoping I don't lose motivation to keep working on it once it warms up and I can ride my other bikes.
 
You can still check the compression with the motor out. Just hook the starter up to battery power and spin the motor over. Looks like the carbs are off already, so that's fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Tune-A-Fish© said:
Want those crabs cleaner than the day they were born... RestoCycle is a site supporter and listed jobber on site.

http://www.restocycle.com/ I use them when I can and have never been disappointed.

Thanks for the good words T-A-F, much appreciated. Looks like you're on your way with your carbs, but I'm at your service if you can use our help refinishing any of that aluminum with our vapor blast service. Links in signature.

Great projects!

Nils Menten
RestoCycle
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I got the carbs all cleaned up and put back together and they will be going out to CrazyPJ next week to be moded to run pods.

I got the bike down to frame finally and got it power washed. The frame seems to be in pretty good shape, I knocked some rust off at the welds just to make sure there weren't any cracks or anything. Next I'll be knocking off some of the tabs, rear peg mounts, etc, then I'll send the frame out for blasting and powder coating. I think I want to use a stock seat set up so I'm going to leave the hinge, and also the raised fender mount. One thing I'm deciding on is if I should remove the rear hoop and buy one from like dime city or something and weld it in. Or could I just weld the stock rear hoop in? I just think it looks a little thin and cheap.

During disassembly last night, I found that the top triple clamp is cracked clear through. So it looks like I will be doing a front end conversion after all. If anyone could walk me through what it would take to swap like a CB750 front end that would be great. Or maybe a CB550 front? If I'm doing it I would like to go to a disc brake in front. What years will work, what will I have to do to the rear suspension, etc? I'd like to be able to keep the stock swingarm because I feel like welding new shock mounting studs is above my head. Could I put like a 1" longer shock on the rear and keep close to the same geometry? When explaining this, pretend you're writing a "front end swap for dummies".



 
Sounds about right. These top triples were pretty weak and very commonly overtightened. DCC has pretty nice CNC top triples if you don't want to swap the front end.

I'll be watching if you do swap. I have been looking at a CB550 front end for my 360 while it's currently off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
I don't think these guys like me very much or pay attention. HAHA.

The swap is literally just bearings and a small 5/8" shim, plus axle spacers.

Here is mine with dual 300mm discs. CB750 front end, EX500/CB360 rotors, GS500 calipers (came on lots of Suzukis), CB360 hub, 70s era Suzuki 18 aluminum rim:

5d6e72de2e878d9920a4d67ac94b8fab.jpg


A bracket for the GS calipers
411409bfef3a97fc68c9c9f1a4eec20a.jpg


The rotors were made by drilling out the rivets on the stock 360 rotors, taking the stock center and bolting up EX 500 rotors to make sort of a floating disc.

It's on my thread if you wanna see... http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70781.15
 
irk miller said:
I don't think these guys like me very much or pay attention. HAHA.

The swap is literally just bearings and a small 5/8" shim, plus axle spacers.

Here is mine with dual 300mm discs. CB750 front end, EX500/CB360 rotors, GS500 calipers (came on lots of Suzukis), CB360 hub, 70s era Suzuki 18 aluminum rim:

5d6e72de2e878d9920a4d67ac94b8fab.jpg


A bracket for the GS calipers
411409bfef3a97fc68c9c9f1a4eec20a.jpg


The rotors were made by drilling out the rivets on the stock 360 rotors, taking the stock center and bolting up EX 500 rotors to make sort of a floating disc.

It's on my thread if you wanna see... http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70781.15

So the EX500 rotor mounts direct to the CB hub? if yes, can you send me a template for the suzy bracket, I think this is a good solution for the BSA/CB750 front end.
 
Tune-A-Fish© said:
So the EX500 rotor mounts direct to the CB hub? if yes, can you send me a template for the suzy bracket, I think this is a good solution for the BSA/CB750 front end.
Sure will. I have notes at home.

I took a CB360 hub, the center of the cb360 rotor and the EX rotor to make it work.

1d40de45762195d92ada016470663dcc.jpg
 
irk miller said:
I don't think these guys like me very much or pay attention. HAHA.

HA! I forgot we talked about this at Barber. My 360 has been under a sheet since then :-\

I am trying to get a cheap set of 550 forks, I have a Nissin caliper from the swap meet that may work but I do want to do dual discs if I end up doing the swap because why not.
 
irk miller said:
Sure will. I have notes at home.

I took a CB360 hub, the center of the cb360 rotor and the EX rotor to make it work.

1d40de45762195d92ada016470663dcc.jpg

I have a complete EX front end, maybe I can make all the parts swap but if the suzy is the shit ill find one on eBay... wonder if that is a common pattern, I have a Brembo rotor and cali also.

Good heads up mang!
 
I wonder if these from the earlier EX500 would be compatible as well... I think this is off a '90. They look sweet.

s-l1600.jpg
 
I haven't forgotten about this project. Thanks for all the input on the front end. I'm searching for a CB750 or CB550 front end, but if I haven't found one for a decent price by the time I'm ready to rebuild the brakes and wheel bearings I'm just going to buy a billet top clamp from DCC and stick with the stock front end for a while anyways. Theres a local vintage motorcycle salvage company and when I called asking for a stock top clamp I was quoted $150. The billet one is cheaper than that and probably more durable. I asked if he had a cb750 front end and he laughed and said no way those are hard to find.... I might find a new salvage guy...

I have the frame detabbed, going to be finishing cleaning a few things up on it tonight with the grinder, and then it will be headed to get blasted and powder coated with the swing arm on Thursday. I've decided to stick with the stock seat setup because 1. it's easy, and 2. the thin aftermarket seats look like my tailbone will be hurting after one run down a gravel road. Hopefully have it back in a few weeks (it's getting done for free I just can't be pushy on how quickly it gets done), and then hopefully will have a rolling chassis by the end of the month. In the mean time, I'm going to disassemble the wheels, clean and paint everything, and reassemble with new bearings, brake shoes, and tires. (thats the plan, but I am looking to buy a new enclosed trailer soon so some of the bike budget may go towards that)

I checked compression on the motor. Kind of. The motor is already out, so I basically tried to hold the motor inplace on the cardboard while trying to kick it over. Didn't work so well. both cylinders came up to about 90 psi after a few attempts at kicking it, but the motor was flopping around while I was trying to do this so probably not accurate. If I want to hook up the electric start on this to crank it over to check compression what do I need to do? Hook the lead up from the starter to a battery, then hook the battery ground to the engine somewhere? If anyone has advice I would appreciate it.
 
Got everything sent out for blasting and powder coat yesterday. Spent Wednesday night finishing the prep work of removing the bushing and everything from the swing arm, and finishing up smoothing out the frame in the spots I cut tabs off of.

The shock mount bushings were a real pain to get out. I tried the socket pull through method I've seen on here but that didn't work. I had to resort to burning out the rubber part, and heating up the swing arm. I then took a hacksaw blade and cut through the outer metal ring of the bushing, thing went to work at it with a hammer and chisel and was finally able to get them out. The first side took forever, I was being as careful as possible to not put any gouges into the swing arm. The other side popped out pretty easily once I cut it.

After that was all finished up I threw the motor up on the bench and spent about 20 minutes cleaning. Man theres a lot of dirt that is caked on it. It's going to take forever. Any good methods for cleaning the fins, or is it just elbow grease? I'll be painting the motor black so if I have to use a heavier wire brush it should matter to much.

For the swing arm bushings and the pivot shaft, should the shaft be greased with just an axle grease before reassembling? I plan to buy a set of those bronze bushings to use since the stock ones got destroyed as I took them out.

Shock bushing 1


Shock bushing 2


Going to work with the chisel


A little heat


more chisel


Frame ready to go


Motor set up to be cleaned.
 
When you install new shock mount bushings... there is a very easy way to do it. I use 2 sockets, one large and one smaller one. The smaller one should be the exact size of the bushing, and the second should be larger. Put a long bolt between them and a washer on either side. Tighten with an impact until the bushing is seated. You can freeze them to help it go easier. I use this method to remove them as well, as it takes a lot less work and they come out in one piece.
 
Thanks for the tip. I tried that to remove them but they wouldn't budge. Might have if I let them sit in some PB blaster over night but I didn't have time to do that. I'll use this when I put them back together for sure.
 
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