Welding Gas Tanks

der_nanno said:
TIG is only done with pure Argon, unless you go with Helium, which is a nice way of cheating to get more heat into aluminium, but can't be used for normal*"Normal" meaning DC, which is steel and stainless TIG-welding. (IIRC it only works with AC...)

With regards to filler: I use ER70 for stainless, ER302 (IIRC) for mild steel That's backwards, ER70s is for mild and 302 would be stainlessand now comes the tricky part, there's no generic filler for aluminium, so you have to know which one you use, but generally a 4000-series does 80 percent of the work for me. As you asked me about welding brass, I've checked some old notes form college and nope, never tried it.

*Normal means steel for me.

Cheers,
Greg
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ArHe mix is only used for deeper weld penetration, only industrial uses, nothing we need.
ArH2(hydrogen mix) is the only other Argon mix commonly used with TIG setups, also for a hotter bead, and higher welding speeds on stainless steel.
And what brand markets these ER fillers?
Mild steel is most commonly welded with 12.64 tig rods, stainless is 304/316l/lsi. These are european norms.
ASME certified fillers is a whole other world, we only use them in the oil industry.
 
datadavid said:
ArHe mix is only used for deeper weld penetration, only industrial uses, nothing we need.
ArH2(hydrogen mix) is the only other Argon mix commonly used with TIG setups, also for a hotter bead, and higher welding speeds on stainless steel.
And what brand markets these ER fillers?
Mild steel is most commonly welded with 12.64 tig rods, stainless is 304/316l/lsi. These are european norms.
ASME certified fillers is a whole other world, we only use them in the oil industry.
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ER is not a brand name, but an American Welding Society mild steel electrode designation.

ER70S-6 is simply

E= Electrode
R= Rod
70= minimum tensile strength in k.s.i. (so 70,000 p.s.i. in this case)
S= solid
-6= alloy composition (i.e. how much silicon, manganese ect. is contained)

The reason it is called "electrode" even on tig filler is that is the exact same thing as mig wire of the same designation, just bigger diameter usually.

I like to keep 308L on hand for s.s. filler. In the shop and outside of pipe, 316l grade material is not very common
 
der_nanno said:
Cheers Hurco, it was a long day yesterday. Guess I mixed it up real good!
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Ha heard that man. We all have those days!
 
HURCO550 said:
ER is not a brand name, but an American Welding Society mild steel electrode designation.

ER70S-6 is simply

E= Electrode
R= Rod
70= minimum tensile strength in k.s.i. (so 70,000 p.s.i. in this case)
S= solid
-6= alloy composition (i.e. how much silicon, manganese ect. is contained)

The reason it is called "electrode" even on tig filler is that is the exact same thing as mig wire of the same designation, just bigger diameter usually.

I like to keep 308L on hand for s.s. filler. In the shop and outside of pipe, 316l grade material is not very common
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It would sure be a lot easier to talk welding if there was a common standard of designation, i just lose interest in talking about AWS/ASME standards, because i dont even have time to keep up to date on the EN or ISO norms.
Would have to work exclusively with it for a few years and not only sit and try to translate AWS wps's for european filler materials, because refinery pipes are ASME standard and must be welded corresponding to AWS procedures... SIGH can i have a beer now?
316L is the most common stainless pipe alloy i think, not acid proof, just a grade below.
 
Thanks guys for your input!

So I´m just looking into getting a proper Argon gasbottle but cannot find anything over 10l (Argon 4.6)...will this be sufficient for my amateur needs?
Got a really good offer from Germany for 120 euros...

thanks
 
... and then again, just to confuse poor Ryan, we're using DIN-standard (German industrial nomenclature) overhere, so pretty much everything he read on here has to be translated once more. ;)
 
Ryan Stecken said:
Thanks guys for your input!

So I´m just looking into getting a proper Argon gasbottle but cannot find anything over 10l (Argon 4.6)...will this be sufficient for my amateur needs?
Got a really good offer from Germany for 120 euros...

thanks
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Here you have to rent 20l and bigger bottles by the day, the 10l bottles you just pay to switch to a full one at the depot. 10l is great for hobby purposes, professionally, you can easily empty a few 20l bottles a day, so not very practical there.
 
datadavid said:
It would sure be a lot easier to talk welding if there was a common standard of designation, i just lose interest in talking about AWS/ASME standards, because i dont even have time to keep up to date on the EN or ISO norms.
Would have to work exclusively with it for a few years and not only sit and try to translate AWS wps's for european filler materials, because refinery pipes are ASME standard and must be welded corresponding to AWS procedures... SIGH can i have a beer now?
316L is the most common stainless pipe alloy i think, not acid proof, just a grade below.
Click to expand...

quite true for sure. I teach welding for a living, so keeping up with AWS and ASME standards is a part of my day to day life. If your not at least somewhat immersed in it, it would be hard to.

All that aside, for garage use, in the USA, those would be the "have in the shop" standard for me imho... but you are quite right, none of that does much to help ryan over in Germany, and for that I apologize.

Also Ryan, one thing I can say is Yes, Pure argon will do you just fine. Bottle size matters not, just changes how often it will need refilled obviously.

Also, I am a teacher, so I am biased, but if you are able, I really feel that a short term welding class would really set you on the right path. Get started with good habits and techniques vs. bad ones.

For example, where I teach, I have a 5 night, 20 hour "intro to welding" course that costs about $189.

We don't tig weld in that particular class(mig, stick and oxy acetylene safety and cutting), but it would still help you get a few fundamentals.
 
HURCO550 said:
quite true for sure. I teach welding for a living, so keeping up with AWS and ASME standards is a part of my day to day life. If your not at least somewhat immersed in it, it would be hard to.

All that aside, for garage use, in the USA, those would be the "have in the shop" standard for me imho... but you are quite right, none of that does much to help ryan over in Germany, and for that I apologize.

Also Ryan, one thing I can say is Yes, Pure argon will do you just fine. Bottle size matters not, just changes how often it will need refilled obviously.

Also, I am a teacher, so I am biased, but if you are able, I really feel that a short term welding class would really set you on the right path. Get started with good habits and techniques vs. bad ones.

For example, where I teach, I have a 5 night, 20 hour "intro to welding" course that costs about $189.

We don't tig weld in that particular class(mig, stick and oxy acetylene safety and cutting), but it would still help you get a few fundamentals.
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Böhler emk6 should be available for all round mild steel welding where ryan is located, and yes, you really need good teachers for welding to become easy and fun!
Also, it was noted earlier that there are no "stock" alloy fillers, thats because you need a filler very close to the original alloy content, also the two most common cast alloys are AlSi(silicon alloy) and AlMg(magnesium alloy). You basically need to find a filler with the same percentage and type of alloy to get a good result. And be able to tune polarity after conditions, too much positive charge on the electrode and it can break down and embed in the weld joint, where you dont want electrode contamination. Yes, all this takes a bit of schooling, for sure.
 
So guys I finally ordered my welder!

Its a 200amp tig welder!I also ordered wlding stick for ally, stainless and mild steel, can´t wait to set it up!
I also have an idea for a welding table,here´s a pic of the table the guy had that held the "welding lecture". 8)

Is there a certain grid these holes have on these welding tables or is this random?
I will get a thick steel plate waterjet cut and would like to have the grid and hole dimension to start to draw it in CAD :)
 

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In school we used to have one tapped in M8 in a 10x10cm (roughly 4"x4") pattern, so you could bolt stuff down.

I actually like his setup VERY MUCH. I may have to copy that down the road...
 
der_nanno said:
In school we used to have one tapped in M8 in a 10x10cm (roughly 4"x4") pattern, so you could bolt stuff down.

I actually like his setup VERY MUCH. I may have to copy that down the road...
Click to expand...

Jep its amazing isnt it?
I will start with a thick steel plate like he has on the top and will build that cart down the line too, when I can throw on good welds.
Really nice when you just need a power plug and can weld anywhere in the workshop...
 
Err well, no I meant his idea, that his cart is the welding table at the same time. That's quite a bit unusual.
 
So guys I finally got around to bring my gas bottles (CO2 for my stick and Argon for my new TIG) to the gas bottle firm and now I need to wait for 2 weeks... ???
I´m in the process of planning out my welding table and I have a few questions for you:

As for the thickness, I heard the thicker the better (warping)...NO JOKES guys :)!
Would 1,5 cm do it?

Which size of table would you advise?

Is there a certain hole dimension welding tables should have?

started out with a 100x100cm table with 2cm thickness but that dang thing would weigh 150kg´s...so I need to go smaller...

thanks!
 
Ryan Stecken said:
So guys I finally got around to bring my gas bottles (CO2 for my stick and Argon for my new TIG) to the gas bottle firm and now I need to wait for 2 weeks... ???
I´m in the process of planning out my welding table and I have a few questions for you:

As for the thickness, I heard the thicker the better (warping)...NO JOKES guys :)!
Would 1,5 cm do it?

Which size of table would you advise?

Is there a certain hole dimension welding tables should have?

started out with a 100x100cm table with 2cm thickness but that dang thing would weigh 150kg´s...so I need to go smaller...

thanks!
Click to expand...

Hope there was just something lost in translation there, but you don't need Co2 (or any) shielding gas for stick welding.

For the table, yes the thicker the better for several reasons, mainly being rigidity, but id take a thinner flat table over a thick bowed one any day.

The other thing when deciding on the size (and even thickness) of a table is moving it. How long will you be in your shop, and when its time to leave, will you need a fork lift ect. to get it back out?

These are pricey, but I really like the design. They laser cut the pieces and then ship them to you. May be good inspiration none the less.

https://weldtables.com/
 
Not really any set dimensions, just whatever your preference is on size.
Mine's just a 8' x 3' piece of 1/2" plate with legs, no holes. I've got my bench grinder, some fixtures, a vice and a drill press mounted to it. Stationary obviously.
 
Unless your doing a LOT of welding (every day) anything non flammable that holds pieces at comfortable level will work. I use an old suitcase stand with some motorcycle crate stiffeners. Not the strongest thing in the world but is really quick and easy to set up (and pack away again)
Weldtables link doesn't work for me? Probably too many trackers so I'm blocking it?
 
Thanks guys for the input!

I settled for a 60x60cm 2MM or 15MM steel plate with holes (waterjet cut) as a work space.
Still waiting for the argon bottle to arrive,I´m using the time to read books and set up the machine on a good space in the workshop.

My father allowed me to use for a base for my welding table an old machine to bend metal so the table will be turnable.

as for the drillings in the plate I found that some of the clamps have a 28MM diameter...would like to know before I send the file out to waterjet cutting!

thanks
 
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