Yamaha RD Kickstarter Oil Leak

2_DONE_THE_TON

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Hey guys!

I finally put my RD 250 Motor together,clutch installed everything works,shifts trough the gears,turns over but suddenly THIS.

the motor did not run yet...carbs are at cleaning now.

yesterday i saw an oil leak on the right motor side coming from the kicksstarter,the motor just got overhauled by myself,new seals gaskets new pistons,et cetera.

is it possible that i forgot the oil seal on the outside of the shaft for the kickstarter,there is an "immersion" on the outside of the motorcover...so did i forget the oil seal on the outside or is there one on the inside too?

the diagram (NO 9) shows an oil seal but does not say where it goes...


i used 1,7 L of gear oil,since my manual says when new clutch plates are installed there should be this much (normally 1,5L) so maybe the motor is too much filled up.

help please...
 

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Well I see no. 9 but like you say it is not clear if it goes inside case or outside, I wonder if you google image RD250 and look at other pics you may be able to see it. It should be in the manual on how to replace but some just say replacement reverse of removal and if you removed it 6 months ago, try and remember where it came from. I take pics as I go to remind me what went where as I dissasemble.
 
I did a quick google and saw that most bikes the seal is on the outside of the case so it can be changed easier. I didn't see the RD250 specific but it makes sense.
 
Maritime said:
Well I see no. 9 but like you say it is not clear if it goes inside case or outside, I wonder if you google image RD250 and look at other pics you may be able to see it. It should be in the manual on how to replace but some just say replacement reverse of removal and if you removed it 6 months ago, try and remember where it came from. I take pics as I go to remind me what went where as I dissasemble.
Click to expand...

first picture shows me being an idiot.....i just searched my pics...there IS a seal and i forget it...hope it will stop the oil drain....

second picture shows that there is nothing behind the kicker which could bear an oil seal...


thank you maritime!! :) i´m a nooooob<!
 

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Well the good news is, you can clean the area and install the seal and likely stop the leak. Put the seal in the freezer for a few hours before you do and it should slide right in with minimal fuss. Use a socket that is smaller then the hole but larger then the shaft and tap lightly. if you don't have a socket you can find PVC pipe that will work usually.
 
dont freeze ::) why would you? more likely to damage the inner lip if it is frozen hard,less pliable
just clean the shaft put some grease on the shaft a film of oil on the outer edge
 
IDK when I did my last set of oil seals I froze em and they slid right on without hardly any effort, one slight tap and seated right in, the ones before that I didn't freeze and I had to pound a lot harder even with lube to get them seated. Both for the same model bike, same location. YMMV.
 
xb33bsa said:
i could see the outside being harder, it would slide in better not be so grabby ;)
Click to expand...

Biggest reason is the seal shrinks just a bit and the firmer rubber helps it be more stable. the best way, depending on the part is to put the metal in the oven and the seal in the freezer and then just plop on into the other.
 
you aren't even shrinking the seal enough to measure,not in your freezer, unless your using some liquid nitrogen...
on a much larger diameter part that is different story
it isnt the rubber that is shrinking anyway, that is very stable, it would only be the steel can inside structure of the seal
that said you can actually figure out exactly how much change using the coefficient of thermal expansion for whatever metal
aluminum expands twice the rate of steel
 
I know, I took Chem/physics etc in Universtity for a while. I am just saying I did the seal on one of the GL heads and it was a pain, when I did the seal on the other head, exact same size placement etc I froze it for a few hours and it went on much smoother. I also warmed the aluminun head to 200F in the oven and that may have had more effect then the freezing so it really can't hurt and may help, and may do nothing. ;D
 
Don't freeze the seal (though I doubt you would hurt it in a household freezer). It should simply push in reasonably easily assuming there is not too much paint in the recess where it goes. Put some lithium grease (or anything else you like) on the shaft, the seal lip where it rides on the shaft, and on the mounting surfaces as well. It should go right in and end up pretty flush with the case. Should be easy to detect when it won't go in any further. Be careful; not to damage the seal on the splines! You do not have to disassemble the engine (except to remove the kick lever!).
 
jpmobius said:
Don't freeze the seal (though I doubt you would hurt it in a household freezer). It should simply push in reasonably easily assuming there is not too much paint in the recess where it goes. Put some lithium grease (or anything else you like) on the shaft, the seal lip where it rides on the shaft, and on the mounting surfaces as well. It should go right in and end up pretty flush with the case. Should be easy to detect when it won't go in any further. Be careful; not to damage the seal on the splines! You do not have to disassemble the engine (except to remove the kick lever!).
Click to expand...

today i finally found my (old) oil seal i forgot to put in that recess...sinc ei replaced all oil seals and geskets this one got lost somewhere...

used little grease on the outer surface and the lip to slide over the kickstarter "stem".
then i used a piece of tubing to carefully drive the seal in with a rubber mallett.

the seal had little resistance but enough that it cannot slip out.
i painted the motor with a thin layer of duplicolor,it didnt cause any problems with the oil seal.

after i inserted i turned over the engine a few times and let ti sit for a day...

the next day it kept on bleeding oil.

so here´s my idea why it didnt work:

A)the oil seal is old (only one which i didnt buy new) and should be replaced with a newer one.

B)I refilled the motor with 1.7 l oil cuz the manual says so.maybe i should stick to 1.5 l (the manual says if the clutch pads are new and the motor is redone it should be 1.7 otherwise 1.5)-->so i guess that the oil level is too high and the oil keeps bleeding out...

what you guys think?
 
get a new seal ::) looking at the old seal before you put it in could have saved you the trouble
the seal spring may be missing or broken or the lip is old hard and cracked
in a pinch i have cut off a few coils on a seal spring to get a tighter fit
 
xb33bsa said:
get a new seal ::) looking at the old seal before you put it in could have saved you the trouble
the seal spring may be missing or broken or the lip is old hard and cracked
in a pinch i have cut off a few coils on a seal spring to get a tighter fit
Click to expand...

the seal and lip didnt look old and/or cracked....see i always learn something here...i didnt check the spring and the lip...probably the problem!

any ideas on how to get the oil seal back out to install the new one?

say guys do:

drill carefully a hole in the oil seal till steel core is penetrated then drill a screw in it then use a hammer to lever the seal out...

i dont want to pry around that area with a screw driver...
 
yeah you can drill a small hole put a screw in it and use a claw hammer to pull it out
with a long screw the hammer can fulcrum on the end of the kicker shaft ;)

wood_screw.jpg
 
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