Cb360 Reassembly Help

Depends on how much slack you have with your bars and whether or not you can route it to take up said slack. If you can't re-route it to take up the slack then yeah, cut it and solder a new end on.
 
I have flat Renthal bars on my CB360 ( 390 ) and routed the standard wiring through them.

It was quite fiddly as the alloy bars have significantly thicker walls, i did not cut the cables.

Steve
 
Even though there is a 'cage' the beaqrings can come out. Pretty sure you can just fit 1/4" ball bearing (maybe 3/16"?) I used to do a lot of cycling so I had some sitting around. 1/4" on pushrod, 3/16" in cage. I would fit all 3 just to be on the safe side. You can use 2 pieces of tube to swage the cage and hold bearings in place (3/16" bore, old brake or fuel line?)
 
I put everything back together 100%. AND still cannot get the clutch to work properly. When the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, the wheel will not spin. Does this mean that the actuator isn’t pushing the clutch rod enough to compresses the clutch? What on earth am I missing here
 
cb360j said:
I put everything back together 100%. AND still cannot get the clutch to work properly. When the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, the wheel will not spin. Does this mean that the actuator isn’t pushing the clutch rod enough to compresses the clutch? What on earth am I missing here

Missing ball bearing ?
 
With everything assembled and the right side cover off to expose the clutch, you should see the pressure plate (the top of the clutch pack) move in and out against the springs when you operate the hand lever. It is a small but easily observable distance. There is not usually much you can do to assemble the clutch so it doesn't work aside from installing too many or too thick plates. If you do not see this motion, either the actuating rod length is too short for some reason ( left cover not tight, ball missing etc.) or the throw out has a problem (missing ball(s) or clock orientation is wrong. With the left cover off, you should see the throw out rotate near 90o when you pull the hand lever, and should see the mechanism expand the 1/16" ish needed to separate the clutch pack. With the cover off, the pressure needed to operate the lever is only that needed to overcome the return spring. The pressure needed with the cover on should be MUCH greater as you now must also compress all the clutch springs. If you don't see this increase, you are not pushing the clutch apart.
 
Wheel should turn but it won't be free spinning. YWith bike on ground you can rock itto release 'stiction'? You have a lot of surface area, hydraulic drag will be high.You could try holding clutch lever to bar and opening plates with a small flat screwdriver so oil can drain from them
 
Does anyone have the clutch retainer for sale? Honda part number 22860-286-000.

It is #8 inside the clutch actuator mechanism.
 
As this is the second clutch issue here at present, I would check the sprocket cover lifter mechanism. Looks like the wrong return spring was fitted in the CL build, maybe you have same or similar problem?You'll have to post a link to retainer, as there isn't anything in left side copver but lifter mechanism. The clutch hub retainer is just a 1" circlip
 
crazypj said:
As this is the second clutch issue here at present, I would check the sprocket cover lifter mechanism. Looks like the wrong return spring was fitted in the CL build, maybe you have same or similar problem?You'll have to post a link to retainer, as there isn't anything in left side copver but lifter mechanism. The clutch hub retainer is just a 1" circlip


https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb360tk0-1975-usa_model440/retainer-ball_22860286000/#.W2SNn9JKiUl
this is the part I am looking for.
The spring in mine is original as far as I know, but this part is missing.
 
I have a box of 'junk' I bought off eBay years ago, will take a look through it for one of those. It's possible to just stick 3 bearings (I think 3/16", Honda used a lot of 'inch' parts) into bottom of ramps with grease and assemble for testing. As long as you don't go 'over center' it will work fine
 
Man PJ if you did I’d sure be grateful! Here’s a picture of the inside at the moment. Tell me what you think of the spring as well. But I’m almost certain it’s stock, been wrong before
 

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Should be same, may even be a better bearing retainer if I remember right. I would completely remove the back piece, just in case some idiot put bearings behind it. I'll be looking for parts in couple of hours, have to go to my other stepdaughters in few mins.If you can't get one and I cant find spare, I'll let you have the one I showed in picrtures (just the bearings part)
 
Just bid on a cl350 actuator on eBay. Comes with entire actuator, plus spring, plus the retainer so hopefully should work if I win
 
Is there any particular benefit to having brake rotor drilled? Other than slight heat dissipation and looking cool?
Also, I currently have on the bike a master cylinder with the built in brake light pressure switch. Is it better to go with the traditional style or would this be easier/ better?
 
more about weight than it is about cooling

stainless steel rotor is quite heavy

you're probably go through more brake pads
 
Pad wear isn't a lot different in my experience. Lighter rotor will help steering and suspension, you only get better cooling if holes are smaller than rotor thickness. Brake works better when wet as you don't get 'steam' layer under pads Slightly less surface area also helps rotor get up to temp faster. I haven't found any real downside to drilled rotors, in fact, old Yamaha's wear pads better with drilled than with plain. I removed about 2lbs on my XS650 by drilling holes. Organic (wet) pads worked fantastic but wore out crazy fast (2,000 miles, more due to my riding style and sand in Florida) I rarely get more than 5,000 miles from front brake pads on any of my bikes. I prefer EBC 'HH' pads when I can get them. As for master cylinder, if switch doesn't get in the way of anything, it makes sense to use an integrated unit. I bought a couple of Brembo pressure switches to use on some of my bikes, easier than stock unions with split lines, plus, one piece brake hose looks better in most cases
 
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