Ever wonder how a classic British bike engine works?

The other forum has its resident dick. Looks like this place has now acquired its own. Is there an ignore button here?
 
gben said:
That is okay. I just thought that anyone that needed work on a British bike should know as much about the person they are giving their cash to as possible. These are things other people have to say about GP, not me, I am just passing along info.


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So you basically collect laundry and lick the bllzack of every pair of boxers so you can tell the ladies which ones have jock itch?
 
Haven't been in business for a year and a half, so I'm not sure who he thinks is giving me their cash...
 
Hoofhearted said:
The other forum has its resident dick. Looks like this place has now acquired its own. Is there an ignore button here?

Funny how someone passing along information to help others is the "dick", and they guy with a track record of screwing people, lying and doing shoddy work is a hero.... Not a hero to anyone with brains though:

The way evolution works. Smart people will look at objective facts and save themselves time and trouble, those not so "advanced" will listen to GPs bad information and BS and end up losers of time and money. The key word being losers.
I would suggest that if Hoof ever decides to run a REAL Norton he put his money where his mouth is and send it to GP for all his engine building and tuning needs.
 
It is not that I have labeled GP a hero, but he sure does deserve a hell of a lot more respect than you.

Here is how that works, looking at "objective facts."

GP has joined this forum, shared info and been polite.
You have joined, posted negative, non-constructive comments and complained the whole time without so much as offering any help. (No, slander about someone is not help, before you ask.)

So GP is the same as everyone else here. Looking to share ideas and help where they can.
You are someone who is not willing to contribute and only wishes to be negative and have a tantrum when no one believed you.

I don't know GP from a bar of soap but from what I have learnt about the both of you he seems to be the better man.
 
You know, i grew up handing my dad wrenches and worked in shops from pulling buss trannys in the snow to changing cyn clutches on minibikes, wrenched on my and then my kids RACE bikes for years and before he threw a leg over I always had it in the back of my head "did I miss something"... then he would smash into the face of a jump with about 10 g's of force and that thought was gone! We can't always be second guessing or the fun is "gone".

The facts are, guys who get grease under the fingernails have stories and not every single one has a perfect ending... sounds like this dude got derailed and now made it his life's mission to be miserable and stalk Paul. If in fact Paul fucked up on something... so fuckin what! we don't give a rats ass... if someone asks Paul for advice or has him work on something, so be it... move along now, nothin here for ya BUDY :eek:
 
gben said:
...the guy with a track record of screwing people, lying and doing shoddy work...

...Smart people will look at objective facts ...

I would suggest that if Hoof ever decides to run a REAL Norton he put his money where his mouth is and send it to GP for all his engine building and tuning needs.

Never "screwed" anyone (let's see you get ONE person to publicly state that I left them wanting ONE PENNY for an unresolved problem)

Never lied (same challenge to prove it with ONE testimony)

Shoddy work... That is subjective. There was a loose swingarm spindle that I was unaware of, we all learned from that and it was properly and fully corrected. Other than that (and there was no failure / damage / injury resulting), there have not even been any CLOSE or ALMOST injuries, crashes, failures, etc. Shoddy work implies danger and/or damage.

Facts are facts. There are no "objective" facts, or any other type of facts including "false facts".

I no longer do client work, so Hof will have to take his work elsewhere.
 
gben said:
Funny how someone passing along information to help others is the "dick", and they guy with a track record of screwing people, lying and doing shoddy work is a hero.... Not a hero to anyone with brains though:

The way evolution works. Smart people will look at objective facts and save themselves time and trouble, those not so "advanced" will listen to GPs bad information and BS and end up losers of time and money. The key word being losers.
I would suggest that if Hoof ever decides to run a REAL Norton he put his money where his mouth is and send it to GP for all his engine building and tuning needs.
I'd take that at face value, if this were the only thread you were bring a dick on. Alas, it is not. Which leads a logical person to infer that you sir, are a dick.
 
I've got a question, my 73 Triumph Tiger 750 has an oil leak on the front pushrod tube. The factory material for the O-rings only lasts about 4k miles. I used Viton the last time and need to try a different material. I can most likely order silicon base o rings. What have you found?
 

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First off 4000 miles is a long day on that thing... You could try a square O-ring replacement I use them in place of round on threaded fittings, seems to take less pressure to seal?? Here's a link to a crossover chart: http://www.alliedseals.com/documents/ringsize.doc

Default Disclaimer

I am not a professional and do not offer any professional advice or opinions, all of my BS is to be used at your own risk.
 
It should be using square section silicon seal, usually white or orange colour.
Personally I've never seen a round section seal on Triumph push rod seals
 
Pushrod tube seals can be touchy on some bikes, no problem at all on others. Most problems creep in when parts are from mixed sources and possibly not all original spec. Since some Triumph big twin parts remained virtually unchanged over the span of 50 years, this can easily invite mixing and matching to eventual problems.

It comes down to carefully stripping, cleaning & measuring all the involved parts (head, follower guide blocks, tubes, rockerboxes, bolts, etc). If they are within spec, set them in order with a new head gasket, starting with the THICKEST set of seals.

Measure the gap at the head gasket, it should be between 1/16" and 1/8". Adjust the thickness of the PRT seals till you get the proper gap.

I use a light smear of high temp silicone sealant on the PRT seals and copper-coat on the head gasket. Torque to spec, using the criss-cross pattern by the book.

LET EVERYTHING DRY/CURE, overnight. Re-check torque and finish the assembly. Should be fine.
 
GP touched on an interesting issue. Over the years Triumph tried all sorts of minor changes to the tubes and the square section sealing rings. They changed many times in earlier years with different length tubes and different materials and dimensions on the "O" rings. IIRC. try different seals and check how much of a gap there is.
 
Now that is intresting. I have a problem at work with a hydraulic pressure regulator using a square "o" ring. Wonder if I could find one the same size.
 
Gasket sets typically come with three thicknesses. I've never had to use the thickest ones.

I'd like to see someone cut down a silicone o-ring and have it not leak. It's bloody impossible.
 
grandpaul said:
I'd like to see someone cut down a silicone o-ring and have it not leak. It's bloody impossible.

Yeah seems so, I would try ;D... Slide it onto a tube and inside another and slice off with razor in a gelatine motion. I did grow up having to improvise... a lot. I'd figure something out, but I'd never put any goop on an oil seal :eek:
 
It's easier to remove 'outside' sharp corner that fits inside push rod seat, apply some grease and tighten stuff down
'O' ring will end up kinda 'D' section with flat against crankcase
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
I'd figure something out, but I'd never put any goop on an oil seal

Just a very light smear, sort of a film. If done properly, it will not have any globs that can work loose into the engine/oil.
 
grandpaul said:
Just a very light smear, sort of a film. If done properly, it will not have any globs that can work loose into the engine/oil.

Couldn't let that one go... considering the dank air and all. ;)
 
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