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Tonight I finalized the lighting for the rear end. It uses an R6 integrated LED tail lamp which is neat, but I wanted "repeater" lights on the sides, so I grabbed a pair of short LED strip lights (3 lights per strip) and wired them into the circuit.
They are so small and mounted below the seat close to the shock top mounts that they are basically invisible when they are off and nice and bright when they come on.
I swapped the small LED indicators I was using at the rear to the front and of course I need to stretch the leads a little. That can wait until tomorrow and then I need to find a place to mount a horn so that it cannot be seen but still works. I'm using the stock mounting point for something else and I don't want the horn so visible as it is on a stock bike.
Managed to find a few spare moments today and rewired the front indicators, so that's one less item on the To Do list, and I think i worked out how to mount the horn.
After some good input on the General board, I finally broke down and ordered a late model GSXR horn to fit between the frame tubes just behind the radiator. It should be almost invisible down there.
So this week's task is to finalize the LEDs that come on in the PARK position and then I have to make up some side covers - I've been avoiding that for a long time and I'm running out of excuses - and time.
Here's the rear lights in action. Not exciting, but you can see that the small LED repeater is almost invisible when they are off and highly visible when they flash.
The rear lamp is an integrated LED R6 mounted upside down to conform to the shape of the hump. The LED strips are Custom Dynamics 3 element and the white license plate light is a short strip from the local Auto parts store. Wiring is in a new sub harness which goes through the new storage compartment built into the seat hump (the lid is off and so is the seat pad in this short video).
Re: GT750 Phat Trakka - we're getting there (slowly)
Everything is looking great on this Teazer- the tail light looked a little strange though. I watched the vid a couple times and something about it is tricking my brain........
Maybe I'll get a cup of coffee and try again......
Re: GT750 Phat Trakka - we're getting there (slowly)
Thanks Rich. The tail light is all LED so it contains two sets of lights on each side. One set are the less intense rear lights and the other set are high intensity for the brakes. For the indicators, they cycle between both sets of lights. That may be what you are seeing.
The other interesting thing is that in natural light the intensity and color looks a little different to the way they appear on camera.
Paint looks good from a distance, so it's time to get this thing running properly. I filled the radiator the other day and of course it started to drip out the bottom. That's a classic sign of a shot main seal in the water pump.
I wouldn't mind, but that seal was rebuilt with new bearing and oil seal and replacement teflon seal on the mechanical seal.
So I drained the coolant, pulled the rear section of the pipe off, laid the bike on its side and pulled the pump out and stripped out teh teflon seal. Replaced it with a graphite seal from another pump and put it all back together only to find I had changed teh occasional drip to a complete leak down. WTF.
Repeat the whole process to find that graphite seal had a crack in it. Stripped a third pump and that seal has a chip out of it.
The original mechanical seal has never been available as as spare part so I lapped the two faces until it held pressure, rebuilt the pump and fitted it again only this time I used straight water and it still drips. Finally it dawns on me that maybe there's a tiny tear in the bellows.
So the options at this points are:
a. find a suitable replacement mechanical seal
b. Machine the pump hosing to take a TZ water pump seal
c. Buy a new pump for only 165 bucks plus shipping - I don't think so!
I found a couple of seals that might work and they are on order. Option B is the easy way if I cant find the right seal for option A.
We had an old FZR400 pump lying around so that was stripped and the seal part looks like it might work, but of course that's not available as a replacement either. I hate to think how much time and money I spend trying to avoid spending cash. LOL.
Everything is looking great on this Teazer- the tail light looked a little strange though. I watched the vid a couple times and something about it is tricking my brain........
Maybe I'll get a cup of coffee and try again......
Rich forget coffee. Have a couple of drinks and try the "edited" version with music, courtesy of my Youtube. timing isn't perfect but the price was right
Found a Yamaha FZR1000 mechanical seal for the water pump that is identical, so that's one more problem off the table. Of course now that the seal arrived, the leak has slowed to almost non existent. I'll get new bearings and oil seal to rebuild a spare pump and swap it out.
That's what it was Teazer - 8:30 in the morning and I was about to go to bed (midnight shift). I think what was messing with my eyes was just the way that it was flashing. Will those hidden signals be visible once a plate is mounted? Or is that not really a concern?
Either way, I love what you're doing on this. Another one of those projects that I watch for all the time but don't comment on.
Thanks guys. That's the third or 4th set of indicators I tried at the rear. Some were too large, some just had the wrong shape and so on until I decided to try the hidden look. Form the rear the integrated light is enough and that's what many sportbikes use but I had recessed the light inside the seat hump and it wasn't very visible from the side.
This way they can be seen from almost any angle. Of course that isn't guaranteed to do stop cagers from doing something dumb, but it should help.
What I liked was functionality without overpowering the rear end. Invisible visibility. Gotta love that.
With all the messing about with that water pump, I managed to pinch one downpipe between the motor and ground and it split. WT.....
So I had to mock the whole exhaust up using a spare motor as a welding jig and then had to squeeze it back into shape and reweld it. I usually only weld things that cannot be seen, and this ugly weld is very visible. I have three different sets of pipes to test but this is the set I really want to use, so if they are OK on the dyno I'll have to get them cleaned up and welded by a pro.
Tomorrow's test is wrapping the modified side covers in Carbon fiber. The C/F cloth is cut and West system epoxy is ready to mix. I was planning on making a mold off the modified covers and then lay up new C/F covers in that mold.
But I will not need more than this one set so I thought I'd try to use the originals as a plug and then pull them off the plugs and lay down an additional layer or two of clear epoxy on the top and cut and polish that and shoot a layer of Max2K to protect the finish.
Today, I waxed the plugs (old side covers lightly modified and mocked up) and laid up a few layers of carbon fiber on the outside as a wrap. On the first side, I mixed 200 grams of West 105 and about half way through it started to smoke.
Sure, we all know it's exothermic, but that small a quantity smoking was scary to see, so outside it went. That cover is still fairly soft an pliable, so I trimmed it and set it on a flat surface in its own natural autoclave (in the sun) and it seems to be getting firm enough.
Of course the inside is pretty smooth and teh outside is a bit of a mess, but that's what you get when you skin things. If all goes according to plan, I'll rough trim the second one this evening and give them both a skim coat of epoxy in the morning. then I can run them down with wet and dry and clear coat them in a couple of days.
Both side covers hardened up fine and after trimming, I think they look OK.
Because they were wrapped/skinned, the inner surface is smooth and the outside is rough. The covers were rubbed down with wet and dry and a second coat of epoxy was brushed on and left overnight to harden. That was then rubbed down and polished and they came up pretty good I think.
Thanks guys. They weigh right around 100- 110 grams each which is about 50% less than stock plastic covers.
New problem today . Put some gas in the tank and fired it up only to get a leak from the gas tap. It was fully rebuilt with all new seals and O rings but fuel is getting out of somewhere when it's turned to PRI so I suspect it's the front cloverleaf gasket.
I may just fit a high volume Pingel, but I'd like to get this one to seal. I'll drain the gas and strip it again later.
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