CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

Not sure how I managed to miss this for so long?
Anyway, clutch cable inner too short is very common problem which has been known about for several years.
Points cover - meh, did that on Brendon's 5~6 yrs ogo
Do you have heavy duty springs fitted?
You didn't fit Barnett plates?
Clutch plates are all flat?
Oil viscosity?
It's kinda normal to have clutch drag with a wet clutch, when engine is hot and running it's spinning fast enough to centrifuge oil off the surfaces. I've been drilling clutch hubs to increase flow for ??? years, it also helps cool clutch with higher flow through it (and doesn't cause slip, helps prevent it by 'washing' plates when clutch is lifted)

Thanks, Eric.

It feels like 50% of my problems were me ducking shit up and the other 50% was me not getting out of my own way. The pieces sat on the floor of the garage for way too long.

crazypj said:

Points cover - meh, did that on Brendon's 5~6 yrs ogo

Click to expand...

And I bet someone did it 5-6 years before that ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I’m not trying to innovate here. Just trying to feel the breeze through my beard, lol.

Do you have heavy duty springs fitted?
You didn't fit Barnett plates?
Clutch plates are all flat?
Oil viscosity?

Click to expand...

1)No idea, so probs not. Honda tech I bought it from in ‘09 was turning barn pulls into runners.
2) same
3) good question. I’ll check when I install the new new gasket. Thanks. I assume laying them against a piece of glass is a good enough method to test?
4) 10w40 mobil1 full synth 4 stroke. I usually use Valvoline Dino.

It's kinda normal to have clutch drag with a wet clutch, when engine is hot and running it's spinning fast enough to centrifuge oil off the surfaces. I've been drilling clutch hubs to increase flow for ??? years, it also helps cool clutch with higher flow through it (and doesn't cause slip, helps prevent it by 'washing' plates when clutch is lifted)

Click to expand...

Thanks. That’s good insight into what’s happening.

Re: drilling clutch hubs. Is that a precision process or something I could accomplish with a bench drill press? I’m assuming you drill holes in the sides to allow oil to flow across the plate faces and out (centrifugally). Care to share some of the specifics? Hole diameter you use? Frequency? I had a heck of a time finding anything in search.

I’m all about a cooler clutch. Anything to keep temps down in AZ is a mod worth pursuing. It would also give me something to do when installing the snew gasket.

You can see the overnight oil loss after the neighborhood test ride.

Heres how I drilled mine. Not the best angle on pic but its the jist of it.

Simply 2 pairs of the 3 holes opposite of each other and 2 pairs of 2 holes opposite. Drilled by hand w Dremel to chamfer.

Im afraid your points may be exposed to more dirt and gunk being open like that.
Probably fine for electronic ignitions.

Trek is great for adding stuff to pictures to explain whats going on. ;D (I think it's so obvious I rarely describe what is happening after I've done it)
The 3-2-3-2 sequence has '2' holes 'between' the '3' holes. It can be done with a and drill but bench drill is better. Can't remember size, something that doesn't scratch area where plate tangs ride

I have the technology! Ivan do that. Thanks so much.

Out of curiosity, any reason for the two vs three holes? Looks great. I wouldn’t have guessed it was a hand job.

I figured I could grab a new points cover from the scrap yard if I need to go back to points. It just seems to be a heat game. Hopefully I can fix the Ascot (water cooled) before summer comes back. I may try to trade it for a gen 2 Toyota Hilux. I like the idea of being younger than most of my shit and there is a guy who seems to like the Ascot who has one.

No real reason except I'm not an engineer so don't want to lose any strength in clutch hub. The holes are large enough to prevent oil build up, you often find clutch hub as acted as a secondary centrifugal filter ;D
I also drill a 10mm hole opposite the one where hold down spring fits, not enough to affect balance (it should improve it) It just looks better to me
If you don't have 'race' clutch springs, it's one of the cheapest and best modifications you can do

Heavy duty cb350 clutch springs I have. They work well for 360, I wouldn't use anything else. And ON SALE. 8)

https://bore-tech.com/product/350-clutch-springs-cs-4

The idiot of the week award probably goes to this guy, because... well.. I'll let you guess how I pulled this off.

The good news is I just took the bike around the block and put it back in the garage because I was certain that it wasn't worth riding far with the oil leak. This gives me ample time to order those springs and wait for my eBay replacement part to arrive. Thank God for eBay.

The gap between the notches in the clutch basket are .14 inches so I used a 1/8" bit to drill the holes. Looking forward to another step closer to knowing what the fu*k I'm doing =P

Question for trek, how the dump did you chamfer those holes closest to the back. do you have a through bit or something?

Statement for PJ: I'm gonna stress test this "looks better with matching holes" theory" I'm in for 4 matching holes v the one spring 10m that comes factory. This part is pretty overbuilt (said the guy who snapped a gear in half with his hand tools)

I think you could slot out those drain holes without impacting the strength of the part (my local hobbyist metal shop closed, so I'm no longer able to do that, unfortunately.)

Checked the oil pump and it was catching a bit. pulled the drive gear and the spindle was bent.

So what's the difference between the CB and CJ oil pumps? The part numbers are the same.

The pumps are the same, it's the pickup that's different.

Oh...dope

I've already got one of those (apparently) engine wasn't tapped for the CB360 one. case still reads CB

(part number checks with CB360t)
-15421-388-000 for reference for anyone who accidentally lands here

Just to make sure it's clear- you want to have the CJ pickup, not the CB pickup. I think that's what you mean, but just making sure.

irk miller said:

Just to make sure it's clear- you want to have the CJ pickup, not the CB pickup. I think that's what you mean, but just making sure.

Click to expand...

Yup. CB360t used the same pickup. I'd swapped it out with the older one when I replaced the screen. Screen fits on both, so now the better one is in there.

I'm still not sure what is better about it. The internals all look the same. no 3rd bolt feels like a really small gain for those few times you need to pull the thing. Weight savings? lol

Cursh said:

Yup. CB360t used the same pickup. I swapped the old one in as a replacement instead of using the screen. Not sure what is better about it. The internals all look the same. no 3rd bolt feels like a really small gain for those few times you need to pull the thing.

Click to expand...

CB and CJ pickups are not the same. You have two CB pickups

CB-


CJ-

Aw dump. ok. I cross referenced the part numbers and thought I knew what y'all were talking about.

Really earning that idiot of the week award. Thanks, Irk.

Haha. Don't sweat it, homeboy. For reference, which I've confused in the past, CB/CL= same; CJ= longer. That extra nose and the rubber cover (acts like a snorkel) on the pickup is why it's better. That's still in oil while it's on the side stand. No long term running on the side stand, no big deal regardless of what pickup you have.

I've got all the pieces necessary to get this bike back on the road today. Christmas slowed up some serious eBay orders (DAMN YOU JESUSANTA!)

Anyway. I've got two errant washers/spacers that don't appear in the Honda Shop Manual anywhere. I tried putting the larger one behind the clutch basket and it seemed to mess with how the clutch engaged. Any ideas?

Smaller one is:

ID: 10.3mm
OD. 16mm
Thick: 3.5mm

Larger one is:

ID: 18.3mm
OD: 28mm
Thick 1.5mm

<3 you guys. Thanks.

Looks like the big washer is a part of the kickstarter:

PN:90451-357-000