1976 Honda GL1000

Good idea. I did it without and messed it up then re did and got it right.

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I verified a leaky intake valve on one cylinder by putting some oil in each to seal rings, then watching with the intake off. I could see air bubbling through the oil.

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John - you don't need a compressor to make a leak down tester. Volume is small enough that you could use a hand or bike pump.
 
Well some interesting developments today. Had a friend come over and help me for a bit. We checked the valve timing. The cam pulley on the left side was off a tooth. We adjusted it and it finally lined up just right, not sure why I could never get it there before. I've still got low compression on that side. It's like 150 psi on the #2 and #4 cylinder but like 120 psi on the #1 and #3 cylinder.

I ran it for a few minutes and it does run a little better. It idles at about 1000 RPM and comes down to idle after being revved a little better but not as fast as it should. I also hear a strange clacking sound coming from the right side, the good side. Not sure what that is.

Tried doing a leak down test with a borrowed compressor but never could get a good seal with my home made fittings. Just kept having air hiss out from the spark plug hole.

On an up note the engine I rebuilt at school fired up and ran today.
 
Sounds like you are making progress. might want to isollate the "clacking" before the right side becomes the bad side.
 
Well, I realized why my bike was running cold on one side...my carb settings were way out of whack! Now I'm just trying to get it dialed in! Good luck with yours, looks like you're on the right path!
 
Rich Ard said:
You redid valve clearance after fixing timing?
Click to expand...

No, but today I did. Today I went out and checked all the valve clearances according to the manual. I also checked the ignition timing again, it was off but I got it set correctly now. It fires up pretty easy with the choke on and seems to run all right but still the issue of the hanging idle. Can't seem to figure that out.

Also, anyone know where I can find the brake reservoir/master cylinder o-ring? When I started reassembling brakes I noticed that my kit didn't come with that o-ring and I've already thrown away the old one. No one seems to sell just the o-ring and I'd rather not buy an whole reservoir rebuild kit.
 
So, spoke to an old friend of my fathers today who used to do a lot of work on Goldwings. He tells me that the timing advance mechanism could be sticking. I think tomorrow I'll try to check that out.
 
Checked the advance mechanism behind the Dyna module. It seems to be moving freely so I figure it's working properly. Not really anything in the manual about how to inspect it. I redid the ignition timing, fired it up and it's still doing the same thing. I squirted some starting fluid at it to try and check for a vacuum leak but didn't find anything.

Upon further advice I went out and checked resistance on the coils and plug caps. They all check out. What I did find was that a couple of the wires would pull out of the plug caps very easily. So, I removed all the caps, trimmed the wires a little and screwed the caps back on. After that I fired it up. It seemed to run a little more smoothly, maybe it's just me. I also noticed that, while the idle would still hang up, if I took my screw driver and pressed on one of the sync adjustment screws that the idle would come back down.

I know that just pressing on the screw is probably moving the whole throttle linkage assembly but to me this indicates that therein may lie part of the problem. So, next thing up is to order a sync tool and give that a whack.
 
The throttle plates have to seat perfectly. Even a few scratches can cause issues. Because of the interconnect issues between all four carbs and the way one side connects to another there are so many places to have idle issues. I'd start with the screw that syncs left with right bank to see which side is giving the issue, then locate the jug on that side causing it (or maybe both). I would be looking for a loose linkage or hanging plate.

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Jesus, I'm so frustrated with this thing. I finally got my sync gauge and gave that a shot today.

First I pulled the bone head move of the year. It was out of gas so I looked around and grabbed a can and put it in the tank. Started cranking it over, saw the shit that poured into the fuel filter and stopped immediately. I just poured old nasty gas into the tank. Had to remove the tank and flush it out, and the go get a new fuel filter. Dammit.

Finally got everything all hooked up and got it running. Made some adjustment and the carbs seem to be pretty well in sync but it still does the same shit. It'll idle but then seems to load up and starts running at 3K RPM all on it's own. Have to mess with the idle screw to get it back down. Sometimes it comes down to idle but then just kind of dies.
 
John, if it makes you feel any better a friend of mine put kerosene in his riding mower. It ran rough for a while, then wouldn't run at all. He actually took it to a mechanic who solved the problem in 15 minutes.
 
I'm to the point of taking it to a mechanic or selling the bastard. Or dowsing it with my remaining gasoline and throwing a match. I'll roast marshmallows over the flames and laugh maniacally.
 
No work done in a little while. Started summer semester and somehow got a nasty cold.

Anyone know where I can get a brake master cylinder/reservoir O-ring? It's a 43.7X2.5 size O-ring and it seems the only place I can find them is in the reservoir rebuild kits and I don't want to spend $40 just to get an O-ring
 
Do you have a good honda parts guy at a dealer nearby? It is likely honda still has all their o-rings still available.
 
Haven't called the local Honda shop yet. All the Honda dealer websites I look at list the part as 'not available'.
 
Yeah, part number may have changed, but they are usually good about listing that. I meant if you have a good parts guy, they can usually find an equivalent o-ring if you give them or have them measure the size.
 
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