Yet another CL350 rebuild...HELP!!!

When you say "close the choke" are you referring to engaging the choke (i.e., moving the choke lever so that the carb's airway is partially blocked)? A bike should need some choke when starting cold, but it shouldn't need it always engaged to run. If after it starts you still need to restrict the airway to keep it running then it is possibly lean. Definitely keep the airboxes on there. Running the carbs straight open it's never going to run right. However, there are so many other things that could be causing it not to run. I'm too lazy to look back in this thread, but did you adjust the valves, gap the points, and set the timing?
 
Not labor intensive, but necessary. Along with checking the compression and cleaning the carbs, they're the main tasks to be done in order diagnose your issues or just generally tune up your motorcycle. Once everything is set according to factory specs you can better narrow down what isn't working. Shop manual has good descriptions for each process.
 
Well, I've already cleaned and rebuilt the carbs. That was downright nasty, I mean to tell ya. There was so much gunk packed in the muthasuckah. I guess I'll have to try and work on that this weekend.
 
So, I opened up the rotor cover and tested the timing, or points or whatever you call it. The left cylinder is just slightly late and the right cylinder is really early. Planning on adjusting that and the gaps tomorrow.

On a more gleeful note, I got my scrambler pipes on. :D. They look soooo much better!

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As she sits right now. I got the points set, but there was oil inside the crankcase cover and I didn't know that and made a mess all over the patio. Lol. Now I need gaskets and new oil and I'll see if that's fixed anything. :)
 
Timing it includes the LF and L markings in on the crank, right? Lots of turning counter clockwise.

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Yeah, sounds like you did it. Hopefully you gapped the points first then did the timing. If you gapped the points seconds it would throw the timing off.
 
Gapped first, then timed. :)

Do think it would be a bad idea to use the liquid gasket junk for the crankcase and points covers? Or should I go and order the actual gaskets?
 
Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for the clutch cover gasket?

While I was very unprepared for this step of the process I'm glad I did it because when I was cleaning out the oil filter, I found a bunch of this sludge. Its almost like putty but it has metallic flake like stuff in it.
 

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AngryGingerKid said:
Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for the clutch cover gasket?

Lay the gasket paper over the clutch cover and gently tap around the edges of the mating surface with a hammer (I said GENTLY ::) ). This will make an impression in the paper which you can then cut around. Instant gasket.
 
Metal is no bueno. Did you see any in the oil itself? Hillsy's gasket making advice is good, but if you're planning on keeping this bike for a while I'd just buy a whole gasket set. If those metal fragments are caused by something important you're likely going to have to tear down the top end before too long. Plus, once you get to riding it you may develop leaks here and there.
 
That's "normal" on any high mile Honda and usually the cam chain slapping up against the head or barrel somewhere. It could be much more serious of course, but don't panic - yet. Clean it and run the bike with fresh oil and change it regularly and see what comes out of the filter on the first few changes. Check the Oil pump screen too.
 
I think I will, but, this project is likely gonna get put on the back burner for a while. The wife might need some surgery. :( Whatever I can do for free, I will, and fortunately, dad has welders, torches, and misc tools galore!

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Small update: I got the clutch cover gasket made. I used this gasket material that has a sheet of metal in it for longevity. Stuff looks like it'll hold up really good, a bit tougher to shape but I'll tell you what, stuff didn't put up much of a fight against a bone drill+dremmel motor. <~~ pure awesomeness.

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I got the bike all buttoned up and oil in, and it ran good...for a minute. Then it died. I noticed a lot of fuel dumping out of the drainage tube on the right carburetor, and there is now a puddle of gas underneath it. Thoughts?

Thinking back on when I cleaned the carburetors, I felt something "pop" when I was putting the needle jet emulsion tube back in. Anywhere in particular I can get a new one of those? I can't find any on eBay.

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If fuel is dumping out of the drainage tube it means that the fuel level in the float bowl has risen too high. First, as TheCoffeeGuy points out, it could be your needle valve sticking and not stopping fuel from coming in when your float lifts off of it. You can take the needle valve out and clean it to be sure it's still springy and not sticking. If it's busted you can usually get a single one off eBay for cheap or as part of a carb kit. Second, it could be your float height is set wrong. Did you measure the float height when you checked the carburetors? If the tang on the float is set wrong it will cause the problem you're seeing. If you need to check it again also check and be sure that the float actually floats. When I first got my CL350 one of the floats has a small hole which allowed it to fill up with gas, so it wouldn't actually float and the carb was flooded easily.
 
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