cxman said:i have one of my cb900 c with the cyclex system its only been in there 3k miles
we will see how it does long term in the heat
Sonreir said:On this bike, the rotor is made up of a couple of different parts. Inside the rotor is another winding of copper called the field coil. This is what the black and white wires connect to, when they pass through the alternator assembly. The field coil gets power from the regulator/rectifier and the way the R/R ensures you have good voltage is by varying the resistance on the white wire. When resistance is lower, more power passes into the field coil, resulting in stronger magnetism. Increased magnetism or increased revs means more electricity. As revs increase the R/R will increase resistance so that too much electricity is not pushed into the system.
Sonreir said:Is there a green wire somewhere else? I would be concerned that the R/R is not the correct unit for your bike if it doesn't have a green wire.
Sonreir said:That's fine then. Two wires for new unit is what the diagram shows.
Sonreir said:If it were me, I'd bypass the harness.
From your new unit, ground the black wire and run the red wire to the battery positive terminal or the hot side of the solenoid.
Sonreir said:Yup. Bare metal.
Sonreir said:That will work, too, but I prefer fewer connections to the battery if possible.
CrabsAndCylinders said:Do fewer connections to the battery make for a better electrical system?
Sonreir said:Not technically, no, but it makes for taking the battery in and out a lot easier.
Sonreir said:Not technically, no, but it makes for taking the battery in and out a lot easier.
Sonreir said:Not technically, no, but it makes for taking the battery in and out a lot easier.
Sonreir said:Not the yellow wires, but 18 gauge is good for the others. 14 for the yellows.