teazer said:
No anti seize with normal nuts and no loctite either. We always oil the threads on everything sand then tighten to the correct torque. You will be surprised how little torque it takes to tighten things - including head sleeve nuts. More is rarely better and with fasteners that holds true (pun intended).
You will be hard pressed to get better advise than the above. That said, I use blue loctite quite a bit but often as much to help keep out corrosion as for vibration. Hardly anything on an RD (most 2 T's in fact) gets very tight. If you used a 1/4 " rachet and held just the head to tighten, the average guy could likely overtorque most every fastener on the engine. The big nuts on the crank and trans shafts will be pretty hard to remove without an impact now that you have the cases apart. They don't really get that much torque either, just enough to flatten out the (bellville?) washers which work like a spring to keep tension on the parts.
The most important fasteners on the motor to do right are the head fasteners. Totally stock engines are ridiculously prone to head gasket leaking because even a little too tight on the head nuts bends the head enough to make it not seal. A lot of guys mill the top of the cylinder flat to remove the flange that locates the 350 head gasket so they can use 400 gaskets which greatly solves this .Take out all the studs, clean them, and blue loctite them into the case. It would not hurt to do the case studs too while you are at it, 'cause you can really do a good job cleaning the case and cylinder surfaces when the studs are out. Make sure the threads are flawless, tighten in stages, and don't over tighten, not even a little. I install mine with copper gasket spray which definitely helps. And follow XB's advise on re-torquing.
This is what I show for torques:
6mm case bolts: 1kg-m or 90in/lbs
8mm case nuts and 8mm head nuts: 2 kg-m or 180 in/lbs
No specs given in the original factory Yamaha manual for the big crank and trans nuts. For what it's worth, I put a small drop of blue loctite on operating room clean parts that test assemble smoothly, and lightly use an impact just enough to flatten the washers. About the same for the sprocket nut with the bend over lock tab. As an alternative, you can put a rag (Yamaha's official recommendation) between the crank and clutch gears to jam them and use a ratchet for the crank, but you need a special tool to keep the clutch basket from turning. You can make one, but it is fairly easy to break the basket if you don't make a half decent one.
It has been a long day....
