barnett468
Coast to Coast
Sonreir said:
But you forgot the most important information...do you use a .008, .009 or .010 E string . . Also, is it a dadario or Ernie ball etc . . not all guitar strings are created equal.
But you forgot the most important information...do you use a .008, .009 or .010 E string . . Also, is it a dadario or Ernie ball etc . . not all guitar strings are created equal.
barnett468
Coast to Coast
deviant said:
I prefer the dadasrio phos/bronze for my 1969 Fender F1050 acoustic but use another type for my takamine 12 string and start and carvin guitars.
barnett468
Coast to Coast
Mydlyfkryzis said:
The moderator used poor judgment. ☺
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Firing up the grill... Porter House for two...trim the fat or sizzle it and eat it?
barnett468
Coast to Coast
Sonreir said:
Maybe. ☺
barnett468
Coast to Coast
Tune-A-Fish said:
Sizzle the fat to a dark golden brown and add a side of deep fried pork rinds and a foil grilled tater with a 1/4 stick of real butter and big scoop of sour cream topped with a generous serving of salt . . oh wait a minute, my heart doctor said that salt is bad so just eat it plain and don't forget the Budweiser...the greatest beer known to mankind!
J
jryftc
Guest
So all I did was clean all the ports with carb cleaner, bowl, etc, and then blast with compress air. Richened the needle from stock height of 2 to 3...and replaced primary jets, because the bike ran poorly with 3/4-full throttle. Kept all the original brass, and needles, really didn't replace much. My only intention on moving the needle from 2-3 was because the bike was running lean all over the place I believe.
However, now that I have the bowls back on, the things are leaking like crazy. Didn't replace the gaskets, but I don't think there's a need to..going to look at floats, needles, and I guess swap one gasket to see if that does it but I doubt it will. I've never had a leak like this from these before.
However, now that I have the bowls back on, the things are leaking like crazy. Didn't replace the gaskets, but I don't think there's a need to..going to look at floats, needles, and I guess swap one gasket to see if that does it but I doubt it will. I've never had a leak like this from these before.
barnett468
Coast to Coast
You can rarely reuse old dried up bowl gaskets.
Is it the bowls that are leaking or are the float needles leaking?
Changing the needles just 1 clip will do absolutely nothing for a significant lean or rich condition. . . they are for very fine tuning of early throttle opening only.
Is it the bowls that are leaking or are the float needles leaking?
Changing the needles just 1 clip will do absolutely nothing for a significant lean or rich condition. . . they are for very fine tuning of early throttle opening only.
barnett468
Coast to Coast
kopcicle said:
Jawol mein Furher!
jryftc said:
3/4 to full throttle is all about the Main jet.
0 -1/4 is the pilot jet.
Strip and clean the bodies and jets again. Boil the bodies in lemon juice or pine sol (diluted of course) and then flush them with warm water and air dry (compressed that is)
Then take a can of spray carb cleaner and spray it through one circuit. repeat on the other 3 carbs and compare flow rates. Do not try to do all the drillings in one carb and repeat on the others because you will nor remember how each one flowed. That spray test is just to determine if all 4 carbs are the same or if one has a partial blockage in one circuit which can then be cleaned out carefully.
If you have a drilling that is clogged and no other way to clean it, use a piece of wire but be really careful because it is really easy to leave a long gouge/trough in what used to be a round hole.
Those jets look pretty cruddy so leave them to soak in crab cleaner for a while (read the instructions on the can).
You can usually get away with using the old float bowl gaskets but sometimes they tear or peel apart leaving part on one surface and part on the other and those will not seal again.
When you start to reassemble them, check the floats and float valves to see if they close correctly.
And try to avoid aftermarket jets and needles, they are rarely the correct size. If the jets seem to flow at different rates, try to get a set of new pilot jets and main jets. Old jets may be caked with deposits or may have been opened up by a PO trying to clean them with a steel implement and lack of care.
barnett468
Coast to Coast
.
"crab cleaner"...? . . I prefer to clean my crabs in the dishwasher.
Anyway, do not boil pine Sol unless you want to strip the lining from your nose and lungs . . do not breathe the stuff especially if you have asthma or some other respiratory problems because it can cause you problems that you don't want and since e we seem to be voting for worst suggestion of the day on this thread, i vote for this one, lol.
If anyone thinks pine Sol is harmless, just cook some up right there on yer stove then put your nose overt the pot and take a nice big wiff.
New jets are cheap and readily available if one is incompetent, or skillful enough to gouge a big trench in one with an E string from a guitar but new lungs are a bit harder to come by. ☺
"crab cleaner"...? . . I prefer to clean my crabs in the dishwasher.
Anyway, do not boil pine Sol unless you want to strip the lining from your nose and lungs . . do not breathe the stuff especially if you have asthma or some other respiratory problems because it can cause you problems that you don't want and since e we seem to be voting for worst suggestion of the day on this thread, i vote for this one, lol.
If anyone thinks pine Sol is harmless, just cook some up right there on yer stove then put your nose overt the pot and take a nice big wiff.
New jets are cheap and readily available if one is incompetent, or skillful enough to gouge a big trench in one with an E string from a guitar but new lungs are a bit harder to come by. ☺
What about Pine Sol is harmful? Alcohol ethoxylates are not considered harmful. They are used in many cleaners in laundery detergents. Glycolic acid can be an irritant, but it is hugely dependent on pH levels. Diluting it significantly will take care of that. In full concentration, the Glycolic acid is 1 - 5%. No one suggested boiling it in full concentration. If you refer to the msds for Pine Sol, it's NFPA rating is 1/0/0 . Not a big deal. At least not the big deal you're making it out to be.barnett468 said:
J
jryftc
Guest
Put the bike back together, runs like shit. I was under the impression I had the floats at 12.5mm, air fuel screw 1.5 turns out, and I replaced the primary jet for a new one, not OEM. When I put the bike back together, it started really hesitantly, then would die when I touched the throttle. I'm assuming this has to do with the shitty primary jet, going to switch it back to the regular one.
Also, I moved the needle height from the 2nd notch to the 3rd notch. How severe would that be? I wanted the bike to run a little richer, as it seemed that it was running a bit lean before.
Another question, these main jets should be screwed all the way in right? The first time I took my carbs apart, they were all half out..the newer ones sat flush. Assuming they should be all the way in...I'll put a picture up.
Probably going to order 4 new floats (OEM), and put the old jets back in next week, as it was running, just not perfectly. Keep in mind I've done 75 MPH on this bike like a week ago so it's not exactly a project...the third carb was just popping a bit out the back, so I thought it was running lean. Overall, the carbs were pretty clean and such, just wanted it a little more rich.
Also does anyone know on the carb sync screws a "stock" amount they should be in / out to get the bike to at least idle before fine tuing them with a gauge? Also for the finger tightening idle screw an amount it should be out? I set the other three screws in relation to that no? I know its the last step but it does affect idle, and I had difficulty starting her up so I wanted at least a point with them where it didn't struggle to start.
Also, I moved the needle height from the 2nd notch to the 3rd notch. How severe would that be? I wanted the bike to run a little richer, as it seemed that it was running a bit lean before.
Another question, these main jets should be screwed all the way in right? The first time I took my carbs apart, they were all half out..the newer ones sat flush. Assuming they should be all the way in...I'll put a picture up.
Probably going to order 4 new floats (OEM), and put the old jets back in next week, as it was running, just not perfectly. Keep in mind I've done 75 MPH on this bike like a week ago so it's not exactly a project...the third carb was just popping a bit out the back, so I thought it was running lean. Overall, the carbs were pretty clean and such, just wanted it a little more rich.
Also does anyone know on the carb sync screws a "stock" amount they should be in / out to get the bike to at least idle before fine tuing them with a gauge? Also for the finger tightening idle screw an amount it should be out? I set the other three screws in relation to that no? I know its the last step but it does affect idle, and I had difficulty starting her up so I wanted at least a point with them where it didn't struggle to start.
Attachments
barnett468
Coast to Coast
deviant said:
You would be well advised not to recommend products that can irritate peoples lungs etc . . you have obviously never done the test I suggested so quit implying its harmless . . Once again . . that is an incredibly stupid suggestion period
You have every right to give people bad afvjcer that might f up their bike but you have no right to give them advice that can do harm to their health even if its temporary.
Not saying whether or not I have done something does not mean I have not done something. You project a bit too much there, pal. Not to mention, there are millions of things out there that are unsafe if you don't use the proper precautions. Ventilation, respirator and don't breath could be your solution here. Not run your mouth with accusations of stupidity, bad advice or inflammatories. There is far worse that we all deal with in these bikes than boiling a 10:1 solution of water and Pine Sol.barnett468 said:
barnett468
Coast to Coast
deviant said:
You dismiss the potential health issues a bit too much there "pal".
Again, you are beyond irresponsible for continuing to dismiss potential health issues from doing what was recommended . . also, there was no suggestion by teaser to dilute it or To wear a respirator so your point is invalid.
For you to continue defending the incredible stupidity of your position is beyond belief.
Alright genius, here's a quote from you "You can just spray carb cleaner thru each port with the long nozzle..." Because, ya know carb cleaner is perfectly fucking safe and has zero toxicity. Here's the MSDS for CRC carb cleaner- http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/5079.pdf Are you serious? You're making a big deal out of Pine Sol? Because clearly Teazer knows what he's talking about and it might refute you in some way, so all you can do is pick on his typo and his suggestion of Pine Sol. The issue is clearly that others have chimed in and maybe disagreed or have given other advice and now your panties are all in a wad. It's hard living in this world without confidence. I commend you for surviving this long.Tune-A-Fish said:Use those "carb cleaner tools" that look like torch tip cleaners, they are like little round hard files... those suckers really get the gunk out!!! hell you can even increase jet size with em if yer "CAREFUL" :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\
Really, if chemicals wont soften it up its likely rust lodged or corrosion, rust needs to be removed in exactly the direction it was introduced and sometimes the best tool will the backside of a jewelers drill (tiny drill bits) but only to push something out you can see and can push from the back side opposite where it came from... never go rooting around in the passages with a chink of crincled up old ass wire wheel shit
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
barnett468 said:
.... HMMM I dont see any edit to his post so me thinks you miss the first line of the post
Note the edit blow barnett468
Coast to Coast
Tune-A-Fish said:.... HMMM I dont see any edit to his post so me thinks you miss the first line of the post
Ah yes . . I do remember seeing that now but forgot so thanks for bringing that up . . irregardless, the fumes are still nasty and abgravitate some peoples lungs like mine and some other's i know and since not a lot of people are familiar with it or the potenyial affects of the fumes, i am simply pointkng out that evrn though teazer or debiant may be able to use it as an inhalant, not everyone csn so it seems irresponsible for anyone yo dismiss these fzcts judt because it may not have sny adverse affect on them.
I can assure you and anyone else, if you have ever have difficulty breathing and not known when or if it might improve, you and they would have a far greater appreciation for what i am saying.
Its also simply stupid for deviant to defend his defensless position by feebly attempting to compare solvent fumes or toxicity etc in his humurous rants, to something that has an instsntaneous adberse affect on some people.
PS how wete the steaks? ☺
