Plug chop results.

I reckon the actual insulator of the plug gets plenty hot enough at high outputs to stay pretty white. On our street bikes we have a pretty hard time leaning on the motor hard enough for long enough to really get things set up properly for max output but it is worth doing and will save your engine. If you use a warm enough heat range plug for your application at high load and wide open throttle it will stay pretty white under those conditions. And you can get a pretty good idea of A/F ratio and timing. But as soon as you reduce the output the temperature at the plug will drop quickly and not be able to produce the same level of information. That is not to say that there is nothing to be gleaned from looking at your plugs at say a medium cruise speed, but the info is in my experience pretty muddy and definitely not the same as at high output. For me, I couldn't care less what the plugs look like at any operating situation except max output. Nothing bad EVER happens tuning wise at less than max output. Get your engine to run well and safely at wide open throttle and you have won most of the battle. Leave the plugs and ignition and main jets alone after that and then fool around with the rest of the carburetion to get it to run pleasantly. If looking at your plugs helps, great, just don't go looking for the same indicators that are so useful at high output.
 
Wow, this is getting pretty fuckin wordy! Way above my head but I'm making sense of some of it. Sounds like doing plug chop at WOT is really the priority if I read correctly. But if the plugs are already black and sooty from running at lower RPM won't that skew the results at WOT?


Yeah Son!
 
I'll quit being wordy (and wrong ;) ) and point you here... http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/tuning101/carb_tips.html

Also, it hasn't been said but make sure you aren't using the choke but a few seconds. Anymore and it fouls the plugs pretty easily.
 
deviant said:
I'll quit being wordy (and wrong ;) ) and point you here... http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/tuning101/carb_tips.html

Also, it hasn't been said but make sure you aren't using the choke but a few seconds. Anymore and it fouls the plugs pretty easily.

Yeah I've made that mistake with the choke before. Learning curves, lots of them. I appreciate all of the help. Quick question though, the article suggests doing main jet plug chop at 65-75mph on the highway. If I really want a good read shouldn't it be at WOT for a good 60 seconds? That's more like 100mph... Don't really need to go that fast and risk a big ticket?!


Yeah Son!
 
Update. Turns out, float height was way off so I didn't have enough fuel in the bowls. Reset float height and confirmed with clear tube method that my fuel level was 2-4mm below the bowl/mating surface. This previously lean condition I had compensated for by raising the needles to the last clip and caused it to be too rich. I lowered the needle to the middle slot and also installed 120 mains, bench synced and then vacuum synced as best I could. Just took it around the block and it's like a new bike!! Way more "peppy" and a better sound too.

I currently have the mixture screws at 1 turn out. There is some popping with deceleration whole in gear and closed throttle. Should I turn mixture screws IN to richen mixture to fix this?

Thanks for all the help dudes. It's crazy how out of whack things were.


Yeah Son!
 
Progress is good. I prefer to set FUEL level and not FLOAT levels for that reason. Some carbs require modified float bowls or modified drain screws, but that's the way to go.


On slide carbs where the mixture screw is on the filter side, out adds more air = Leaner i.e. it changes teh amount of air relative to fuel.

On CV carbs where the screw is on the motor side, out - more (gas and air) = richer.
 
teazer said:
Progress is good. I prefer to set FUEL level and not FLOAT levels for that reason. Some carbs require modified float bowls or modified drain screws, but that's the way to go.


On slide carbs where the mixture screw is on the filter side, out adds more air = Leaner i.e. it changes teh amount of air relative to fuel.

On CV carbs where the screw is on the motor side, out - more (gas and air) = richer.

Yeah these are slide carbs so in is richer. I just wonder if the popping while deceleration with the throttle closed is a lean condition or rich?


Yeah Son!
 
Here are photos I did of 2 and 4 after getting the engine good and hot and then a good couple of minutes at highway speed with the last 20 seconds at WOT. These are not new plugs but had been used with a previously rich condition so I think they are black and sooty from that. With the changes they look good to me at the tips. Nice brown color.
767e754eb936d01a867562eae222efa8.jpg

db58a62bb7e3da5d0bf454b5dd952530.jpg



Yeah Son!
 
I haven't read every post so don't know if it's already been mentioned?
In my experience, fitting K&N filters makes mid range richer on all Honda's so needle needs to be one clip higher than stock position. Float level needs adjusting to 1mm higher than stockWhat is the grade of plug you are using?
They don't look like they are running correct temperature but a bit 'cool'
It could be because of rich mixture.
 
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