1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar (video added)

johnu

johnu

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This isn't really a resto, more of an enhancement. My dad restored this bike about 5 years ago in England and decided he has too many bikes so he shipped it over here to Cali for me! Bike just showed up yesterday so now I have the dreaded DMV to deal with to get the title and registration sorted. I called the DMV today, the hold time on the phone was projected at 2hrs... forget that.

Anyway mostly my plan is just to ride the bike but I really will have to address the totally useless front brake first. I rode the bike a few times back in the UK and the brake is horrendous. I will be taking pointers from Swans thread about how to improve the front brake.

Anyway here are a couple of pics just after I got it out of the crate yesterday:
 

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Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

love the goldie!! Really dont see many of these left around these days.

my uncle has one almost the same (paint and everything). Enjoy!

Just realised, yours is bare metal tank! not a dark grey, crappy screen on my laptop was deceptive
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

Great looking machine- you don't have a lot of tidying up to do.
Swan's got a link to up grading the front brake drum.
Your's looks great in the alloy rim- I would try to improve what you have first
Best of luck riding it out
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

Thanks guys.

My dad (in the UK) always used an additive in the gas as the engine is supposed to run on leaded fuel. Is there an additive here in the USA that I can use?
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

They do sell an additive but i'm not sure where they sell it or what it's called...However You can go to some airports and buy 100 octane Low Lead fuel....Unfortunately for me and my Little 1960 Ducati the nearby airport will only sell it to me If I have a flight plan and an aircraft....Lame
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

hi,
very nice score...and dad!
only way to have a good front brake is to replace it with something better like a 4ls or disc or even a 190mm bsa drum..
there is a way to make the one you have work better and not too much work. make sure rim is true first and bring rim to someone that has a gap bed lathe that can skim the drum and true it up. then put good shoes on it and true them up either with sanding paper on the drum or back on the lathe...i have a cerriani 4ls on my absaf goldie and it works pretty good but it is no where near a modern disc!
joe@ vcycle
www.joesvcycle.net
www.joesvcycle.wordpress.com
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

just run non oxygenated and if it detonates then run a higher octane fuel....av gas is not the answer it is blend to run in engines that run a low rpm, it is 100 low lead ...if you need the higher octane and tetraethyl lead to reduce detonation try race fuels.
joe
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

Thanks for the info guys. Joe I will try to make the original brake work the best that it can rather than fit a different hub. I will try to get the hub machined out then I can do the shoes to match on my lathe at home.
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

Check with Summit racing or Jegs for lead additives.
I am thinking Moroso 104 is a good choice.
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

WOW very nice ride there really outstanding :) Im in ....
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

Johnu, What a beautiful bike! You are so lucky and a Lyta tank too.. Does it run? I cannot wait to hear mine for the first time.

As mentioned by Joe A (check out his Goldie) and on my build tread, true your rim, balance your tire and then have the drum skimmed on a brake lathe so it is true. Use modern brake shoe compounds and turn the backing plate and shoes on your lathe to -.020" under the diameter of your drum. Many prefer the 8" brake over the 190 mm.

You can either convert your valve seats to new material which is suited for modern unleaded fuel (expensive and take a very good machinist to install and properly grind these large seats in a small area), use an additive or run higher octane, non-oyxgenated gasoline (no ethanol). I have 93 octane non-oxygenated gas at my corner station, made for classic and recreational vehicles.

Keep the images coming and hit me up if you information, parts sources, info etc. Enjoy your beautiful new Goldie!
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

what kind of Greeves is under wraps? i still have a griffon 250.
joe
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

joea said:
what kind of Greeves is under wraps? i still have a griffon 250.
joe
Click to expand...

Haha, you've got a keen eye! It's a 1960 250 Greeves Scottish (trials bike). First bike my dad and I restored together, he shipped that one over to me from England also.
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

John,

There are additives to provide a cushion on the valve seats and a small degree of lubricity. I doubt that it includes Tetraethyl Lead, but you should find something at your local auto store. In the UK they sell LRP (or used to) which is a zero lead equivalent. It supposedly prevents valve seat recession. I might try that and see if it prevents hairline recession or on my wallet to reduce economic recession.......
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

swan said:
Johnu, What a beautiful bike! You are so lucky and a Lyta tank too.. Does it run? I cannot wait to hear mine for the first time.

As mentioned by Joe A (check out his Goldie) and on my build tread, true your rim, balance your tire and then have the drum skimmed on a brake lathe so it is true. Use modern brake shoe compounds and turn the backing plate and shoes on your lathe to -.020" under the diameter of your drum. Many prefer the 8" brake over the 190 mm.

You can either convert your valve seats to new material which is suited for modern unleaded fuel (expensive and take a very good machinist to install and properly grind these large seats in a small area), use an additive or run higher octane, non-oyxgenated gasoline (no ethanol). I have 93 octane non-oxygenated gas at my corner station, made for classic and recreational vehicles.

Keep the images coming and hit me up if you information, parts sources, info etc. Enjoy your beautiful new Goldie!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment. Bike does indeed run infact it has about 800miles since it's restoration. I've ridden it many times back in the UK.

I love the sound of this bike! I had the choice of the Goldstar or a Rocket Goldstar but the single really does it for me. I'll probably end up with the RGS as well eventually.

Brake options duly noted.

Oh, my dad also fitted a Pearson clutch to the bike before he shipped over.
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

Coolest dad in the world!
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

teazer said:
John,

There are additives to provide a cushion on the valve seats and a small degree of lubricity. I doubt that it includes Tetraethyl Lead, but you should find something at your local auto store. In the UK they sell LRP (or used to) which is a zero lead equivalent. It supposedly prevents valve seat recession. I might try that and see if it prevents hairline recession or on my wallet to reduce economic recession.......
Click to expand...

Haha yes we're all suffering from some recession or another! I think LRP is what my dad uses.
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

John is that a twittering Taylor Dow muffler by any chance? I loved the sound of the one I had on mine back in the day.

And a GP carb or is it a TT? Can't tell from the picture
 
Re: 1953 BSA BB32 Goldstar

All I know is it is a brand new Amal monobloc, I am not well up on this ancient stuff! The exhaust, well I don't know what it is but it has a beautiful bark to it (probably my favourite thing about the bike).

Went for a quick spin down my street earlier and the front brake is much better than the last time I rode the bike in the UK. My dad said he had worked on it so whatever he did is a big improvement. The Pearson clutch is not perfect though it is dragging a little bit, you can tell when you blip the throttle to change down and it is near impossible to get the bike in neutral when you come to a stop. I will play around with that a bit to see if I can improve it.
 
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