A CB360 Build - Lil' Sebastian Rides Again

Back working on the bike after actual work had me away from it for a while. Installing the rebuilt front brake calliper and having some trouble with the new hose. These videos show everything bolted up tight but I've still got air escaping where the hose joins the calliper with the chrome fitting. Bit stumped on this one...

https://vid.me/ALLT

https://vid.me/8uzZ
 
Yeah that's not good. Not sure if you can twist a two wires around it, like a hose clamp to cinch that down. I'd try though. Otherwise, you might want to switch to a banjo bolt setup.
 
deviant said:
Yeah that's not good. Not sure if you can twist a two wires around it, like a hose clamp to cinch that down. I'd try though. Otherwise, you might want to switch to a banjo bolt setup.

Hmm bugger. You got any pics of the kind of hose clamp/cinch you'd suggest?

It's THIS hose from 4into1, anyone else had the same problem?
 
There's this:

http://clamptitetools.net/index.php?route=common/home

https://www.amazon.com/CLT05-Clamptite-Plated-Aluminum-Wingnut/dp/B00XWK7SNC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CCQ2CZXTY0Q2JEKN4FWE

https://www.amazon.com/CLT03-Clamptite-Stainless-Aluminum-Wingnut/dp/B00XWL8V1Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YF9XXCD1ZGYCDNJ583T6

Or use safety wire pliers, which can also be used on axle bolts and such...

https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/irvansmith-saf006-safety-wire-pliers-p-932.html

2xWireSafetyWire.png
 
Thanks Deviant. Do you think it's a safe enough option to use for something as important as brakes?
 
They say it is. I'd replace the hoses myself, personally. But safety wire definitely does it's job where it's supposed to.
 
Your problem looks like it is mechanical. There should be no motion at the fitting. Very hard to tell in the vids, but I think that for some reason the fitting is not screwing down correctly. The leak looks not to be at the hose connecting to its own fitting, but the fitting at the end of the hose not coming up tight to the adapter screwed into the caliper. When you are pushing down on the assembly, that is where it is supposed to seat. That nut around the hose should hand tighten very easily until there is no motion, and then you should only need to tighten it up just past snug to keep it from leaking.

Safety wire is absolutely 100% totally unacceptable for any sort of clamping on hydraulic brake lines so do not use it. It's ok for the gravity feed hose from the reservoir, but no where else.

If in fact the hose itself is leaking - unlikely - the only solution is to replace the hose assembly. None of the parts can be re-used. Take the fitting apart and figure what is wrong. The fitting on the end of the hose will have some sort of flair connection that will mate with the opposite gender in the adapter. Likewise, the adapter will have a flair end that mates with the flair in the caliper. There can not be pipe threads or you have an incorrect adapter unless you have altered the caliper to use pipe threads - not recommended but can work. I read that you stripped the caliper, if that was the hydraulic connection than likely your only recourse is to tap it for pipe threads and use an adapter that is the correct fitting for your hose on one side and male pipe on the other. The side that connects to the hose must be the very exact correct component. It cannot be pipe thread under any circumstances.
 
jpmobius said:
Safety wire is absolutely 100% totally unacceptable for any sort of clamping on hydraulic brake lines so do not use it. It's ok for the gravity feed hose from the reservoir, but no where else.
I was wondering about this, and it makes sense because of hydraulic pressure. I'm curious if the situation is such that a lot of time and money is being thrown at repairing what is usually an inexpensive and plentiful caliper when bought used on eBay. Or, if the same effort could be applied to upgrading to a more modern (perhaps 2 pot) caliper.
 
There's something wrong with that hose kit, send it back.

I ordered something similar from a different source, and it came with the wrong thread.

Theyre just made up from components, my guess is the hose end has the wrong flare.

Steve
 
Thanks Steve. I got an email back from 4into1 who claim that I've installed it upside down. Both ends look identical so I'll give it a try and see what happens...


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Might be helpful to post up some pics of the ends of the parts so we can see the threads.. What sort of adapter do you have? What threads on each end? Looked at your vids again, and it looks to me like, as previously noted that the female nut at the end of your hose assembly is not threaded on far enough to seat the pipe that is crimped to the end of the hose. If you remove it, I bet it moves back and forth just like it does when screwed down. If the nut is tight, and the hose is still loose, there is either a bad problem with the threads, or the threads are mismatched - either SAE and metric mismatch, or different pitches. It is quite easy to have mismatched parts. There are numerous flares and the ones you use HAVE to be exact matches. Likewise there are several very close metric and SAE possibilities, but HAVE to have the exact matching threads. All the parts involved need to assemble together smoothly and easily and be obviously made to work with each other. If not there is something wrong. The female nut should smoothly spin at least three full turns (5 to 7 more likely) before suddenly coming to an abrupt halt and all slack removed from the line and caliper. If it gradually gets tight without locking down the hose, there is either thread damage or mismatched threads.
 
Hi fellows. So I resolved the issue. It was really a foolish error on my part. I hadn't bolted everything up tight enough - I was worried about stripping the thread in the calliper again. Didn't need to worry though it all went on fine this time.

As for the front wheel, is it supposed to be stiff when turning, as if the new pads are lightly pressing on it?

(Haven't bled brakes before :-[)

EDIT: Could it be that I haven't pushed the new piston all the way in to the calliper? Is it supposed to sit flush once in there? About 2mm was poking out, it felt like that was as far as it'd go...
 
Anyone? Can't find any decent illustrations of how the piston is supposed to sit in the calliper online...
 
It shouldn't feel like the rotor is dragging on the pads. If you pushed the piston into its bore and it was very hard to push in, you may need to remove it and reclean the seat for the rubber seal, also if you used an aftermarket seal they've been known to cause problems (see my 360 thread).

The way these brakes work is when you first install the piston you push it just about all the way into the bore. When you bleed the brakes, the piston/pad will come to a point where one pump on the lever will push the pad just enough (it's a tiny distance) to contact the rotor. When you release the lever on this pump, that rubber seal you installed draws the piston back to its original position. The rubber seal basically stretches or rolls outward with the piston, and then retracts the piston by returning back. So it's very important that the piston moves smoothly in the bore and that it's not ridiculously tight, cuz it won't work.

A lot of times with new pads you will hear the pad lightly dragging On the rotor but it shouldn't be binding the wheel from spinning freely. It's just a result of the tiny distance the piston retracts and the pad doesn't always go with it.

Edit:

I don't have any pics of how the piston sits in the bore but I was just looking through and I did actually have to sand the sliding surface of the pad down to get it to move freely

6fc60872ec0af94115ac66a0fd81f650.jpg



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Did you re-set the adjuster?
There should be 0.006" clearance on 'fixed' pad (nearest spokes)
 
crazypj said:
Did you re-set the adjuster?
There should be 0.006" clearance on 'fixed' pad (nearest spokes)

Sorry PJ just saw this. Haven't had a chance to work on her since I last posted but will have a look!
 
crazypj said:
Did you re-set the adjuster?
There should be 0.006" clearance on 'fixed' pad (nearest spokes)

Aight back to a bit of work on the bike this weekend. PJ, which adjuster are you referring to?
 
On another note, got this lil fuse box installed and I'm v happy with it. Can't remember who recommended it to me, possibly adventureco, but thanks whoever it was. It's by far the most compact blade fuse solution I've found.

855d8b1f94b9c259811e144a27b88271.jpg


Not pictured is Sonreir's LED headlight setup. Ive yet to properly test it out yet but it sure looks the business.

Things to do before I can take her for a spin:

Timing
Carb sync
Sort out front brake
Drive chain/rear wheel adjustment

Getting close.
 
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