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Shout Box

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  • Kamn:
  • AdvCo, get some heat on it, then cool it down with a penatrant oil a couple of times to help break the bond free......the other go to, is to drill the head off carefully, remove the remainder when the fork is all separated and you will be replacing the bolt anyways
  • Sep 06, 2017, 12:07:40
  • Kamn:
  • ^^ this was for Cookie
  • Sep 06, 2017, 12:05:46
  • Kamn:
  • cracked free with either allen socket on 3/8" ratchet or just the key with vise grips attached to the short "L" end, if that makes sense
  • Sep 06, 2017, 12:04:43
  • Kamn:
  • you can try getting that lower allen bolt cracked free while the whole front end is still on the bike......from there its easy peasy
  • Sep 06, 2017, 12:03:32
  • Cookie:
  • Thanks for the info guys. I like Kamn's way for sure, except for the one little issue of all my air tools being at work...might make the seals a winter, slow time job
  • Sep 06, 2017, 12:01:39
  • Cookie:
  • Sucky. Don't forget some fire and a good, hard whack.
  • Sep 06, 2017, 12:00:17
  • advCo:
  • The allen head part is stripped out
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:59:26
  • advCo:
  • Yeah i tried the torx, thats usually my go-to. May need a bigger size
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:59:17
  • Kamn:
  • hammer in a size that looks like it would fit but wont without the persuasion
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:57:29
  • Kamn:
  • or is the part of the bolt that takes the allen key stripped?  If so, you can hammer in a torx and get it undone that way, then replace the bolt
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:56:41
  • Kamn:
  • AND, wassup Nick?
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:55:15
  • Kamn:
  • threads missing on the bolt? or the other end?
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:54:59
  • advCo:
  • fun fun
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:39:08
  • advCo:
  • I started rebuilding the forks on the 360 and the allen key underneath is stripped out
  • Sep 06, 2017, 11:39:00
  • Kamn:
  • Yup, sometimes its just faster and less struggle to put a 3/8" impact on it. Also, the upper fork tube can be used as a slide hammer driving upwards to pop the seal out when that bottom allen bolt is undone
  • Sep 06, 2017, 10:47:29
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • That process sounds much better - the pressure of the fork spring against the damper rod will put enough pressure on the rod to stop it from spinning when you try to unscrew the allen damper bolt.  You may even find you can break the blot free without using an air gun if you're lucky.
  • Sep 06, 2017, 10:41:34
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • What Kamn said ^
  • Sep 06, 2017, 10:39:16
  • Kamn:
  • and what I mean by leave it all together and loosen top fork cap is, leave it in the triple with the triple bolts tight to keep the fork tube from spinning on you when you go to loosen top fork cap
  • Sep 06, 2017, 08:53:42
  • Kamn:
  • circlip not circle
  • Sep 06, 2017, 08:25:51
  • Kamn:
  • There is also another way, leave it all together and loosen the top fork cap but don't undo it all the way, then with the pressure of the fork spring use an air gun to get that lower allen bolt loose, then take off the top fork cap and drain oil, remove spring, remove circles for seal (if it has one), then remove seal with some type of pry tool being careful not to scratch the inside of the fork tube, then pull everything out and clean......reassemble with new seal and fresh oil
  • Sep 06, 2017, 08:25:18
  • Cookie:
  • Awesome, thanks Jim, I'll try that, and I'll check your thread for pics.
  • Sep 06, 2017, 06:56:52
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • By the way, if you try the broom handle/swiffer trick to unscrew the damper allen bolt and it doesn't work (i.e. the damper rod inside the lower fork just spins when you try to unscrew the bolt) you may need to take it to your local shop and have them unscrew it with an air tool.  I had to do that on my KLR - those bolts were stuck in there tighter than a pelicans ass in a power dive
  • Sep 06, 2017, 00:32:57
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • Getting the seals out is a different story, at least is was for me.  They seat in the lower fork tube, and getting them out was tricky.  No doubt there's an easier way, but I ended up slinging a cut-off wheel onto my dremel and very carefully cut through the seal (and it's internal steel skeleton) before being able to pry it out, taking care not to cut into the aluminium of the fork tube itself
  • Sep 06, 2017, 00:26:45
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • You'll then be able to separate the upper and lower fork tubes
  • Sep 06, 2017, 00:24:23
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • Hey Cookie, my fork rebuild escapades start on page 25 of my thread, that should walk you through the steps.  Once the fluid is drained out I removed the top spring, jammed a broom handle down the upper fork to put pressure on the damper in the lower fork (the bottom of which is secured to the lower fork by an allen bolt) and then - with the broom handle (Swiffer to be exact) pressing hard against the damper - you can get enough torque on the allen bolt to unscrew it
  • Sep 06, 2017, 00:21:22
  • Cookie:
  • About to start on the fork seals on my CB750. The Honda FSM states to remove the fork, drain the oil and pull the lower off. Am I to understand that the spring doesn't have to come out first (the manual doesn't mention it), or does Honda assume that I'm smart enough to know better than to pull off the lower leg with a spring in there? My first suspension rebuild, aside from putting in springs and changing fork oil.
  • Sep 05, 2017, 22:36:52
  • Cookie:
  • Alrighty friends. silly question time!
  • Sep 05, 2017, 22:34:29
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • Glad to hear things have calmed down a bit your way Nick, sending good vibes
  • Sep 05, 2017, 18:46:08
  • The Jimbonaut:
  • Thanks Cookie and Hurco, I'm still dancin' on the ceiling
  • Sep 05, 2017, 18:44:21
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