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I’ve got my 71 CB350 stripped down, going to start sand blasting, grinding and welding in prep for powder-coating. I’m following some info from:
http://www.motorcycleshopper.com/articles/hondacb350/foreword.htm
http://www.fiaccone.com/CafeRacer/Cafe.html
Couple issues:
- To get the bottom triple clamp off the forks (top is already removed), I loosen the 1 bolt and then bang it off with a mallet?
- I don’t want to use any of the covers that are on the forks, what’s with the exposed spring? Do I cover it with a rubber boot? What are my options?
- I’m thinking of using the center-stand; maybe not even have a kick stand, what’s your opinion?
- Front and rear drums, does anyone drill vent holes for cooling? Anyone have a pattern to follow?
I'm not familiar with this particular front end, but the lower triple tree should be clamped onto the fork tubes. Loosen the bolts and it should slide nice and easy up the fork tubes. You don't want to be banging around in there with mallets as you don't want to damage the chrome on the fork tubes in any way.
If under the cosmetic covers you have exposed springs, I'd be keen on leaving them exposed! If you're going the cafe route, exposed springs would make the front end look like a set of old Norton roadholders or something. Of course the springs would need to look nice for that, so if they're not terribly nice to look at, run with the covers or gaitors.
Awesome thanks.
The lower triple tree is only on with 1 bolt...as far as I can tell.
The mallet is a rubber one, just banging on the triple tree itself, no chrome.
I've seen one of those Nortons with springs exposed, though it looked cool, haven't seen a Honda though.
The bottom clamp should slide oof the forks with the pinch bolt removed.
The exposed springs ARE cool. I did it that way on my CB350 that I stripped down to play on the ice.
Just recently I read a post about a guy building a CR350 replica and he detailed how he drilled the large drum vents - http://www.ohiocaferacers.com - quite nice!
I checked out the drilled drum vents at
http://www.ohiocaferacers.com - nice job, I'm thinking about more holes and smaller, some kind of pattern.
I took some parts into work to sandblast, see pic's, tomorrow I'll do the rims and frame. Hopefully I'll grind up the frame and have her painted by the end of the weekend. The aluminum parts I'll polish or at least make an attempt at it!
I bought 2 K&N air filters on ebay...$33.00 CDN shipping included.
- The springs are very rusty, going to sandblast them, should I powder-coat or chrome them?
- There are black plastic sleeves under the springs, anyone know what these are called and if/where (ebay) I can buy a set?
- I drained the fork oil and loosed the screw (couldn’t get it removed) in the bottom of the fork then tried to separate the fork pipe and lower, I assume there is a cir-clip under the rubber seal in the lower but with the chrome covers on the lowers it would be tough to get at, any suggestions?
- On the forks are chrome covers, how do these come off?
You should keep those plastic sleeves. They should be easy to clean up. I too am running exposed springs. if you have the cash, I personally, would powder coat them. Chroming them would look too chopper IMHO.
Center stands: Those things are HEAVY. But they are also nice. I'm sure you noticed on my site that I chopped mine off. I've seen Kit (Mysta2) pivot his whole bike around on the kickstand, so it too has its advantages.
Chrome things on the forks. I've never seen those before. Good luck with them!
Vented holes on the hub: They look cool, but seem like an awful amount of work. If I ever cook my brakes, it is something I will be looking into. To get the pattern you want, design something up in Illustrator, Flash or whatever drawing program you use. Then cut it out and tape it to the hub with double-sided tape. Then, take a punch and mark where each hole goes. Finally, drill them out, starting with something small like a 1/8" bit, then step up to the final size.
On my ice bike I ended up without those black plastic parts - I think they just prevent two metal parts from rubbing against eachother. The chrome bits help to hold the spring in place at the bottom. Leave them there.
I can't recall exactly how my forks went together, but from past fork work I'm almost certain there is no circlip holding the tubes into the lowers. Usually there is a bolt at the bottom that threads into the damper rod. You have to hold it from spinning in order to get them apart - the problem is you have to hold it down inside the fork tube. I have made up different "sockets" to fit down inside. On my Z1 it was a socket with the sides ground off - for a CB360 its a bolt welded to a pipe.
Check the VRRA site (google baffled muffler) CB350s are very popular in P1 racing so there is lots of knowledge there - someone should be able to help
Center stands: Those things are HEAVY. But they are also nice. I'm sure you noticed on my site that I chopped mine off. I've seen Kit (Mysta2) pivot his whole bike around on the kickstand, so it too has its advantages.
I need to get with you guys to show me how to do that. I've seen it done on TV (Superbikes) but I'm just not confident enough to try it on my bike yet.
You have the early style piston type fork from 68 to 71. 72-73 CB350s used the plunger type with internal spring. The plastic sleeves center the springs to the fork tubes and prevent rubbing, you need them. The chrome covers are probably corroded and stuck to the sliders. If you need to change the fork seals you'll need to remove them. Try spraying WD40 into the seam and heat it up with a torch to loosen them. Then use a scrap piece of aluminum and hammer to try and bang them off. There's a flat spot on the slider where you can to this. There may be some slight damage to the covers but try not to damage them too much. The springs sit on top of them. You need to remove the covers, circlip and fork seal to separate the fork inner from the slider.
Had to put the CB aside while I took care of some other things, rebuild a buddy's '01 CR250, then scorred a XR500 for a case of beer, I've done some work to that getting it going, plus did some work to my GSXR1100, and then there was a busy time at work as a new rotation left for a tour.
So now it's back at her, did a mock up of the tank and seat I want to make out of aluminum.
Can anyone recommend a grade and/or thickness of aluminum to use for the gas tank?
Are the pieces going to have those hard edges or will you round them off? If they will have the hard edges, just go with 16ga 6061-t6. Have a look in big arse projects at my cb360. I'm making a wooden buck this week. After which I'll build the aluminum seat. The curved sections are 18ga 6061 and the flat portions are 16ga 6061. I have no idea if the 6061 will bend well enough. I'll know this time next week
Ya I like a squarish look, the "breadbox" type of tank.
I'll lengthen the seat a few inches and the rear cowling.
I'm going away this week so won't be able to work on it till the weekend.
Chris, I will (have been) checking your forum and progress, excellent by the way.
Got some speed holes drilled, I may polished the hubs or powder coat them black, not sure yet.
Tried to find 16ga and 18ga aluminum, but up here I guess we go by metric so found .030 and .040.
Picked up 2 sheets of .030, 20" x 30" and 24" x 32", cost was $63.00.
Started on the tank, I think I'm out of my league on this one but we'll see how she go's.
Big thing is trying to keep it all symetrical and such.
If the tank turns out to be a mess I'll go back to the stock tank and give up on my dreams of a boxie vintage roadrace style.
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