'73 CB250 - Doing it right this time round.

Yes. The hand glaze is what buffs it to a polish. ScratchX would do much the same. Rubbing compound is more coarse than hand glaze, and may be more coarse than the 2500. I'm not sure.

I may be wrong, but your pics look pretty damned polished.
 
Right on, I'll see if I can find some hand glaze or something similar.

It does like quite polished, but there are still lots and lots of visible scratches left in it. You can't even feel them with a finger nail, so I'm guessing there are like hand swirl marks.
 
Put the bodywork on and took it out in the sun to show some of the scratches I have been left with. On the look out for some hand glaze or polishing compound like Scratch X now. Hopefully it will sort it out and bring out some more depth in the colour.
 

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I see what you mean. Hand glaze may not work those out. See if you can find this stuff...

http://3mcollision.com/3m-perfect-it-ii-rubbing-compound-1-quart-05973.html

Rubbing compounding is meant to remove the sanding scratches. Definitely work in a circular pattern. Then finish up with this...

http://3mcollision.com/3m-hand-glaze-05990.html

I use a more economical Turtlewax rubbing compound that's like a paste, I suspect most will work similarly as long as the grits are common.
 
This was already after applying rubbing compound already. I believe it is the compound which is leaving the scratches, so going with another won't make any difference will it? The one I used was actually quite fine, so am surprised by the scratches.
 
I'd be more inclined to say the wet sanding did it. The paint can actually scratch itself during wet sand too, if you aren't using enough water or the paint is clogging the paper. This typically happens when the paint hasn't cured enough. Rubbing compound can actually round the edges of some scratches off, if they're deep enough. This will make them appear more profound. Regardless, if doesn't hurt to go with hand glaze and ScratchX, see if they go away and if not move a few steps back and work through the process again.
 
Those look like sandpaper scratches to me - or more likely since you say you sanded with #2500 they are dirt scratches. Once you pass #600, the need to keep your paper, hands and painted part absolutely perfectly clean is ultra critical (of course it's important whatever the grit). Even the tiniest particle of grit will wreak havoc if it gets between the paper and part. I put on clean clothes, work out of a perfectly clean 5 gallon bucket so I can constantly rinse my hands and sandpaper and keep a water hose at hand so I can constantly rinse my part. It is pretty messy, but just wet. If you don't get results just continuing to polish, and you think you have enough clear, re sand to remove the scratches. Hand polishing is a bit of a chore, but you should get every bit the same result as with a machine. I do bike parts with a little pneumatic grinder which I adapted to take a 4" polishing bonnet so I can either use a wool pad or foam. I bought it at Harbor Freight for $20 I think way back and it still is fine after a zillion hours and saves a ton of work, but persistence with hand buffing will do the same. If your clear is good you should be able to get finest show quality by hand. A little late in the game now, but I tend to avoid sanding corners and edges as much as possible. There is usually very little peel in these areas and I try to shoot so these areas are very wet. That way I can avoid sanding and polishing these areas so much and risk cutting into the color. You can definitely cut through even by hand, so have a care at corners and edges!
 
Thanks for the input guys. I've just took some 2500 to it again and the scratch didn't budge.

I'm going to go back to wetsanding the whole thing with some courser paper, and go through the whole process again. I may leave the seat and mudguard as they are as they aren't too bad, just the tank is the worst.

I have avoided sanding the edges as much as possible, so haven't 'burnt' through any of the paint yet....lets hope it stays that way!

I'll get up to this same stage trying to rid as many scratches as possible, then go for some hand glaze or polish.
 
While I wait for the motivation to go back and fix the screwed up clearcoat on the tank, I thought I would finally make a start on the fairing bracket. Got the lower mount sorted, now just need to secure the top ears somehow.

The mount is only tacked together at the minute while I sort the lines out. Think its sitting a touch high and too far forward, so will try and adjust that soon.
 

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Cheers Erskine.

Modified the fairing bracket to make it sit lower, and closer to the bike. Looks much better.

You can also see the 'company' logos I quickly made up actually look pretty decent on the bike. Shame about the clearcoat though.

Just need to figure out top mounts now as the 'cockpit' is a little bit cramped...
 

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Made the top mounts today. Just need to paint/powdercoat them along with the rest of the fairing brackets.

The welds are less than desirable but I'll just take a file to them and clean them up a bit.
 

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JesperHusky said:
That really awesome
Its a CB 500 t tank right? How did you manage to make this fit the frame?

Yep, '76 500t.

The front mounts fit fine on the frame, and for the rear I welded on a small tab to the existing tank mount. Then custom made a mount on the frame.
 

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I just made a mock up of mine, and thought it was placed a bit high at the front, with the original front mounts. Did you have clearence, so the handlebars didnt collide with the tank?
7ef964b292c97a7377f19371023ce890.jpg
6eb7b202e944e06656aa94c33502a8e5.jpg
 
Luckily my clip-ons don't come into contact with the tank, but that's just because the seam at the front of the tank contacts the top yoke before that happens. I've just put some rubber seal around the area of the seam to protect it.
 
So, all the fairing mounts have been fabricated and cleaned up, they just need coating in Gloss Black.

The paint could do with another few polishes, but I went over it with some different rubbing compound and managed to remove a lot of the scratches/swirl marks so it looks a bit better now.

I have made the gear linkage using some 10mm OD steel bar as the 8mm stuff tended to flex a little bit under pressure. Got some stainless clevis forks on the end. Just need to powdercoat the actual linkage bar itself.

I still need to fabricate the bell crank for the rear brake, so Im looking around on eBay for a cheap break lever I can hack up and modify. That's the last 'chassis' part I need to do.

Apart from that, I just have to finish the wiring loom off. Yes...still hahaha. But I've got about 90% of the runs done, just need to figure out all the individual connections to the on/off switch I have in my headlight bucket, and the runs for the voltmeter I retrofitted. Clip-ons have been drilled and the wires threaded through to tidy the front up so its not too far away.


Annoyingly though, I have moved to Lincoln in order to complete my Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering. My flat doesn't have any garage/parking/storage space so the bike has had to stay in Cornwall. So at the earliest it will be Christmas until I can get back and work on it, and if not, it'll be September '17.

So the project is on hold. Again. Damn.

(Included is a pic of my 6 foot 3 brother on the bike. Pretty small machines these are! haha)
 

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Ha at least he can rest his elbows on his knees when riding LOL. Bummer about not being able to work on it at your new place.
 
haha definitely!

Yeah sure is annoying, especially considering it is almost done. Just those last few wiring jobs and the rear brake to go. Still, it'll be done in time.
 
I 'think' I may have sourced a cl350 brake lever to modify so I can connect my rear sets properly. Going off of cmsnl, it looks like it will mount directly to k4 frame using the same mounting bolt.

Does anyone have the dimensions of the rear brake pivot bolt, or one lying around they don't need?
 
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