CB360 project

Yeah definitely. I think opening up those exhaust ports really helps too. Now it's time to get a PJ378 license plate!


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Yep, only needs mild porting on intakes, basically a few swipes with 80 grit to knock off worst of the 'bumps' then 'D ' shape the exhausts as they are pretty restrictive.
PJ378, guess everyone will know who to 'blame' when you get ticketed ;D
 
That's exactly what we did too. Just de-burred the intake and opened up the top half of the exhaust ports to match up with the old squished gaskets. Didn't modify the valves though. They were seating well.

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Stock size exhaust valve is fine but I would go bigger on intakes if possible
I'm making some valve guides at present for 5.5mm stem 35mm valves that I think will work, won't know for sure until it's all fitted up and spun over a few times :-X
 
I've been getting a little kick back from my kickstarter so I decided to go through and re-set the tappets and timing. Tappets were a little loose and loud but they're good now. When I set the timing before I got it close. But this time I adjusted each circuit board to get it perfect. Also changed the "break in" oil since I've gone a few miles now.

Then I noticed the front wheel was squeaking like a mother so I just cleaned the rotor, sanded the pads, and re-set the caliper. Will go for a ride again in the next couple days to see if that did it. I did notice a tiny bump on the rotor that was rubbing on the pad so I lightly sanded that down too. The pads were dragging a lot so I wanted to adjust those anyway.

I was leaving a restaurant and It didn't want to start after a couple kicks. So I put the choke to first click and it started right up. Never had to use the choke before because it ran so rich. Haha

I'm quite happy so far. Still taking it easy and going longer distances as I get more comfortable with it. and checking everything over between rides.


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You did check caliper piston and seal plus the pivot?
The seal gets 'pushed' by corrosion behind it and causes piston to stick.
The pivot tends to seize up, I drill and tap for a grease nipple, pictures are on Photbucket so they are 'screwed' at present (ain't paying $400.00 'ransom')
 
Yeah I rebuilt the caliper and cleaned/lubed the pivot good. I just pulled the brake fluid cap and pushed the piston in a little so it doesn't rub. If it starts to drag again I'll look into it more. May just need another final bleed too.

Just really hoping the squeaking was the brake and not the new wheel bearing.


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I think Honda made them 'extra squeaky' ;D
If (WHEN) they start to drag the rotor gets a real good polish/glaze and then squealing/squeaking starts
Drilled rotor seems to cure the problem when everything else is 'fixed'
 
I had some time today to assess the situation. Went for a ride and at first no sound. After about 2 miles I started hearing it softly. Came back and loosened the bolts on my caliper so neither pad was touching the disc. Rocked the bike back and forth slowly and could hear a whining sound coming from the front wheel/hub. If I move it a little faster it goes away. Is that what bad wheel bearings sounds like?




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I just bled my brakes and there were a couple air bubbles that came out. Maybe that'll help


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You can get a 0.006" feeler gauge between 'back' brake pad and rotor?
The arm does swing nice and free?
I'm hunting down various pictures at present, this is a very worthwhile modification, I've been doing it to Honda's since the late 70's early 80's
 

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After I pump the brakes 5 or 6 times there's no room for a feeler gauge. The pivot does seem to move nice and freely though. I'm going to take it for another ride today, get it to start making the noise, then remove the caliper completely and rock it back and forth to be sure if it's the brakes or not. Then do the same with the speedo, just because. I'll definitely consider the grease nipple. But i did put a good bit of grease in the pivot when I put everything together


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If it's greased up well and you don't get caught in the rain too often you should be good for a few years.
Pad should 'back off' within a few seconds at worst to allow 0.006" feeler in there (assuming you set it to 0.006" in the first place)
If it isn't backing off, you probably need to clean out caliper again. Oxidation behind seal is always a problem, particularly if you ised brake fluid to lubricate seal. Use special silicon brake grease in the seal housing, very very thin coating after your sure it's completely clean. I made scrapers to clean out the groove when I worked at Honda dealers because it was so common 'back int day lad' ;) ;D
 
Went for a ride to get it howling again. Then got back, removed the caliper, still howling. Removed the wheel, still howling. Time to dig in deeper. What parts in the wheel are you supposed to grease? I installed new all balls bearings.

https://youtu.be/tMQGnFk-VH0


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I had the same issue on my 360. Turned out I had tapped the bearings in a hair too far when I was installing them, pinching the inner spacer too tightly between the inner races of the bearings. This caused them to hang up and in turn the wheel did not spin freely.

Once I remedied that issue with new bearings, I heard another similar squeal, which turned out to be the dust seals rubbing on the axle without enough grease.
 
I think I have a very similar issue advco. If I loosen the axle nut, the wheel spins freely. But as soon as I tighten it there's serious resistance. Time to order another set of bearings.

https://youtu.be/HAyjNIhVuOk


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