74 Honda XL 350 - The Turd

Just catching up on your build, super pumped about that rear rack and that price point seems nice. I might have to try something like that on the MT
 
Thanks. The rack was cheap but conduit is garbage to weld. I would do a different design and use plates on the outside edges and steel rod for the actual rack if I did it again.

In other news I picked up a rusty '78 XL350 today for $25. Motor was apart but it turns over and the cam journals look good. I will definitely be stealing the LH cover for the '74, as it looks to be in mint condition (from the outside anyways) and the one on there is leaking. I'll snap some more pics of it tomorrow. I may try and slap it back together and see if I can't get it running for shits and giggles.

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Thanks guys. Peach - I had the bike out around the neighborhood in October before Barber. I'm currently swapping out a few good bits from the parts motor I picked up to hopefully fix an oil leak and sloppy shift lever. Once I get it back together I should be able to fire it up. Will need to make a baffle for the 'new' can as well.


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Trying to get this thing running again, I haven't had it going since the 12v conversion. I went back through and adjusted the cam chain and valves. Went to set the timing again, and it looks like the points are grounding out somewhere...

I've been using the multimeter on continuity w/the beep, and setting the timing to the beep and the T mark. But, right now it's just showing that the points are grounding out when it's both open and closed... maybe a short somewhere?


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My guess is that the points could not handle the extra current from the 12v conversion. Might have to keep the ignition system on 6v and run the lighting stator windings on 12v. Just my thoughts. I've been silently following you through your build as I'm doing a 72 xl250 and would like to do the 12v conversion also.


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Do these points have the little fiber washers to isolate the screws? sometimes those break and short. Also if the o ring for the wire that gets connected to the point arch gets turned it can touch and ground against the base plate. See the pic and how the wire is positioned so it is up away from the base plate. I fought the same issue on my wing only to finally notice when I replaced the points I had let one of the wires touch and ground on the plate.
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Well, on this bike the lighting circuit is run through a 12v RR, but the ignition and headlight circuit runs directly from the stator, so the ignition system is still running on 6v.

These points do have the fiber washers, and they are set up to insulate correctly as I had the bike running quite nicely before and have not touched the points since. I will double check when I get back to the shop.


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Check the wire connection I circled as well. It can short/ground even if it is slightly off the plate. put shrink wrap on mine over the exposed solder joint as well.
 
Will do. I'm usually pretty good about checking that, I had the same issue with the 360.

I should mention that while I am having this issue, I still have spark. So that's weird.


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6v or 12v don't matter with points. If you got a gap. Then yes There's a
Short to ground
Somewhere. When using meter to ring points be sure to unplug them from the coil. As the meter can read through backwards through coils ground . This means it don't matter if you can see points gap. It will still ring.
 
+1 I was about to ask after you said you had spark if you unplugged the coil before trying with a meter.
 
HA. That's right, I knew I was missing something. The points werent grounding out, I just forgot the lead needs to be disconnected.

Got too many bikes and they're all different. Last one I did I had to rotate the stator plate to set the timing


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Ok so got the static timing set, but ran into something strange. I had pulled the plug the other day to check for spark after Trying to start it a few times. Popped the plug back in and kicked it over, now there's little/no compression being built up. Like I can kick it over by hand. With the gauge it's reading 60 psi, which is way low.

I haven't done anything to the motor since I had it running aside from set the cam chain, re-adjust valves (all of which are in spec).

Reads 60psi with a few squirts of oil in the cylinder, which points to the valves. With the tappet covers off, I can visually confirm that all valves are opening and closing as they should. Ideas?


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Have you had the valve seats recut?

Have you dropped oil into the plug hole to see if compression rises?
 
irk miller said:
Have you had the valve seats recut?

Have you dropped oil into the plug hole to see if compression rises?
Click to expand...

Yep. I had all the valve seats cut at a machine shop, replaced 1 valve that was bent, new valve stem seals.

And yes to oil in cylinder, it did not effect compression reading.

I mean, I had to put all my weight into it to kick this thing over before. It's worth noting that I didn't hear anything break or any noises when it happened.
 
I'd be inclined to pull the head an recheck the seals on the valves. Sounds like you're losing compression in the head. I doubt you've blown a head gasket that bad.
 
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