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Traded some old VW seats for this CB360 and was told it was only a parts bike. The next day put some oil in the cylinders, cleaned the points, dropped the float bowls and blew out a little bit of crud, hot wired the bike and started it up. Has a couple problems but should be fixable. One problem is that the left cylinder is not firing which is probably just carburetor issues. Tested compression and got 140 on the left and 150 on the right. The other problem is that the clutch will not disengage. I have drove it around in first for a short time but had to roll it and then put it into gear because no clutch. My plan is to make a cafe racer type bike out of it.
Cleaned all of the clutch bits and pieces and put fresh grease on it and adjusted it. I had to get rid of some of the adjusters on the cable so it wouldn't "pop". Now the lever feels exactly how it should but the clutch won't disengage. I am thinking that the clutch plates are stuck together. Also one of the stops on the lower triple clamp is broken off.
Cleaned all of the clutch bits and pieces and put fresh grease on it and adjusted it. I had to get rid of some of the adjusters on the cable so it wouldn't "pop". Now the lever feels exactly how it should but the clutch won't disengage. I am thinking that the clutch plates are stuck together. Also one of the stops on the lower triple clamp is broken off.
Stuck clutch plates is a common problem for these if they've been sitting way too long.
Put the front wheel up against something solid and drop it into gear with the clutch in. Usually they'll break free. If not, it's not too hard to open up the right case and sort it out manually. You'll need the special socket for the oil spinner though.
Stuck clutch plates is a common problem for these if they've been sitting way too long.
Put the front wheel up against something solid and drop it into gear with the clutch in. Usually they'll break free. If not, it's not too hard to open up the right case and sort it out manually. You'll need the special socket for the oil spinner though.
Why do you need a special socket for the oil spinner to sort out the clutch? I mean, if you're going to open that cover anyway, then clean out the spinner, but one isn't essential to the other.
I'd make sure you at least have the procedure right before opening cases. The one I'm working on sat in the front yard of a meth head's trailer for 20 odd years and it didn't have a stuck clutch. I replaced the clutch, but it wasn't stuck. If you're heading into rebuild territory now, or if you're just trying to fire it up, the decision is different. But, by suggesting you had to remove parts suggests you might have some procedures wrong.
I screwed both adjusters on the cable all the way in and the adjuster on engine case all the way clockwise. Turn the adjuster on engine case counterclockwise until I felt resistance than clockwise ¼ turn. I would pull clutch lever after this part to see how much slack needed to be adjusted out with the cable adjusters and without the lever even halfway in it would pop and go slack.
Why do you need a special socket for the oil spinner to sort out the clutch? I mean, if you're going to open that cover anyway, then clean out the spinner, but one isn't essential to the other.
That's a pretty common problem when adjusting the clutch on these bikes, it's a very fine line between properly adjusted and not working. I found this post to be very helpful when I did mine:
You will likely need to open the right side cover to get the clutch plates unstuck. You can also put it in 6th gear and try rocking it, but it won't always work. And like the above posts, you should be cleaning that oil slinger out anyways before running it.
whats the advantage to drilling holes in the clutch basket and is it only applicable to these bikes? would it have the same effect on a 750 SOHC? mines apart but hopefully going back together very soon so i may as well do it before reassemble if theres any need
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