How to repair broken engine wing

JMPUK

New Member
Hi All

I have made the rookie mistake (which will never be replicated) of breaking one of my engine wings.

it is a clean break and if there is an appropriate method of sticking it back on it will go un-noticed!

Whats is the best method in doing so please?

I have attached pictures :)

Thank you!
 

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It can be fixed like new with a Tig welder but you're going to need to separate the motor and hand him the jug.......I don't think you will be able to get the torch head in that small space when the motor is all bolted up
 
I'd just clean the edge and paint it black for the cost of the TIG job and all the work to tear down the motor. one broken fin won't effect the cooling enough. Now that being said if the motor is tired and needs top end work anyway and you broke the fin starting to tear it down anyway then I'd probably have that welded, or find new jugs depending on the condition of the bore etc on yours. Once that part is black 99% of folks wouldn't see the broken fin anyway.
 
Thanks guys, that has put my mind at rest.
My Dad who has Lambretta's says he knows a very good welder locally that will charge £30 to do it. I was stripping the engine back to assess it and give it a good clean up and polish anyway so if it can be fixed, filed down neatly and re-sprayed black without noticing the repair then maybe a very lucky outcome!

Would it be best to get the fin attached back on prior to sand blasting or before to get a smooth, clean finish?
 
Sometimes it's best to just replace it like I did with QuickSteel
0fca43912f495cc20cba02676b59a3c4.jpg
062483666e47da03acd85f668645e904.jpg

You'll need paint though


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Yeah this ^^^^


There's a bunch of metal putties available that you could use - we used to use Devcon in the shop to re- mound broke off fins but yes you will need to paint.


Any TIG welder who knows what they are doing will probably want the block separated and totally cleaned before they touch it. There's a chance you can warp the block doing that as well.
 
By the way the fin that is 2 more down looks like it's been broken and filed back so you may as well fix that one too.
 
Joseph New York said:
Sometimes it's best to just replace it like I did with QuickSteel
0fca43912f495cc20cba02676b59a3c4.jpg
062483666e47da03acd85f668645e904.jpg

You'll need paint though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks good Joseph - you've done a nice job there! Thanks for the response. I will go this route then and see how I get on. Would I get away with just using a small amount of putty in between the break or would I need to cover the top and bottom also then file / sand down when cured?

Sent from my PRA-LX1 using DO THE TON mobile app
 
hillsy said:
Yeah this ^^^^


There's a bunch of metal putties available that you could use - we used to use Devcon in the shop to re- mound broke off fins but yes you will need to paint.


Any TIG welder who knows what they are doing will probably want the block separated and totally cleaned before they touch it. There's a chance you can warp the block doing that as well.

Thanks for that. Will go this route then for sure as can probably controls the finish. I was going to separate the block to give the shown jug a sand blast and respray black. would this be advisable to do with block intact??
 
hillsy said:
By the way the fin that is 2 more down looks like it's been broken and filed back so you may as well fix that one too.

Blimey you have eyes like a hawk! I never even noticed this myself, but you are right, it does. best method for fixing this? On the plus side it gives me more faith that my fix will go un-noticed (to most!)
 
If you are breaking down the engine already, that's an easy fix for an experienced tig or Oxy/Acet welder. Especially since you have the piece that has broken off. In my shop I would charge about $30-$50 for the repair.
 
JMPUK said:
Looks good Joseph - you've done a nice job there! Thanks for the response. I will go this route then and see how I get on. Would I get away with just using a small amount of putty in between the break or would I need to cover the top and bottom also then file / sand down when cured?

Sent from my PRA-LX1 using DO THE TON mobile app
Thanks. Yeah your lucky you still have the fin, I'd cake on a bunch above and below if your going to use as an adhesive. Then smooth over with wet fingers if you can get in there, a knife if not. Then roll some sandpaper and form it after about 30 min.

If you want to form it entirely, you can use tape and cardboard as a shelf, here's some pics of that:
653aefd269a7f9113c6ce775d356feb9.jpg
2339fb4473aaad9fa1d01aff9898121c.jpg



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ncologerojr said:
If you are breaking down the engine already, that's an easy fix for an experienced tig or Oxy/Acet welder. Especially since you have the piece that has broken off. In my shop I would charge about $30-$50 for the repair.

Good man - thanks alot. Engine all broken down now and ready to go!
 
Joseph New York said:
Thanks. Yeah your lucky you still have the fin, I'd cake on a bunch above and below if your going to use as an adhesive. Then smooth over with wet fingers if you can get in there, a knife if not. Then roll some sandpaper and form it after about 30 min.

If you want to form it entirely, you can use tape and cardboard as a shelf, here's some pics of that:
653aefd269a7f9113c6ce775d356feb9.jpg
2339fb4473aaad9fa1d01aff9898121c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

Okay... that's interesting and good to know. Thanks buddy
 
You can also glue it together with zinc and a propane torch if you have the broken off piece. Holds up a little better than jb
 
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