Cj360 gastank “mistake “

I had an FZR400 with Zreem liner that peeled off. The only liner I use now is Caswell. It sticks well and basically coats the inside of the tank with a tough glass clear coating. BUT, the tank has to be spotless to get any liner to stick to the surface. It's not much good if it sticks to rust or grease or old liner, but Caswell seems to create a stronger coating than others.

Caswell is really where it's at. You can do the clear or go with Dragon's Blood, which is red. It's always reliable and does a great job filling holes and cracks. I've also used Red-Kote with good success. Red-Kote stays flexible and is inconsistent on cure. I've always let it cure for a week before putting gas in the tank. Red-Kote will only fill pinholes, while Caswell does more. One thing I like about Red-Kote is that it's available at any O'Reilly's Auto Parts, so it's really easy to get here in the US.

I don’t really have rust in the tank yet but the old liner is damn near impossible to remove so I was hoping to find something that would bind to that, the liner that I used last time was glass clear and I really was cleaning the tank very well.

Well I decided to take it to a prof that will cut out the previous work and start all over, so I can’t wait to hear the judgement on the tank

Anyone see a thread where someone has cut into a tank and then re-welded or brazed it back together again? I've got a really rusty tank that I'd like to do that too. Just tying to think of the best way to approach it and would like to learn from other people's experience. ;D

Well i Got my tank back from the shop and it looked fine, but within a week with gas inside it started to bubble around the welding again, obviously i found a wrong shop but what can I do from here? The welds look very beautiful, so I still look for some kind of after treatment that could seal from the fumes??
Or is there only one way to do it right, and go over it again with the welder?

Was it tig or gas welded? Personally I would use gas (DA/O2) It causes more distortion but always seems 'softer'. I'm going to do the same as you with a CJ tank for my CB, Probably going to cut a section out of tunnel as well though to be able to keep top 'straight'. I have a section from a Suzuki 1000. I've welded a lot of gas tanks over the years, (modified a Suzuki RG125 to fit Honda 125 for Ian Lougher to use at IoM TT) That's when I found out Suzuki soldered the filler mounts in.Get some lead/vody solder and use that instead of plastic body filler.

datadavid said:

Sounds like you didnt get a welder to weld it for you but someone who thinks he can weld.. thats about 50% of all welders

A real welder pressure tests before he hands it back to you.
Sounds like it is more trouble than its worth repairing your tank now, all the previous mistakes will have to be cut out and replaced.

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Yep, only need 3~5psi and a bathtub full of water. Get some strip steel to section into the areas that need cutting out, I would cut triangles out of the two corners and just repair those sections.

I’m pretty sure it’s tig.
I know that he cut out a strip of 2-3cm. around my work to get untouched metal.
I will try to look for some soldering lead, but don’t think that it is as easy as it looks, using that shit

You could probably get plumbing solder to do it, I think it's like tin and antimony so melts at pretty low temps. There are a couple of You Tube vids on lead loading cars. Initial tinning seems to be the hardest part, overheating base most common problem. I'm about 1/2 way through welding a Honda 'Rebel' tank base onto Harley Davidson 'Sportster' tank. Brazed in brass fittings for fuel level tube and a breather tube

I did actually solder some brass years ago in the house for the kitchen fosset, that was pretty easy. Do you think that will hold for this?

You already have it welded, solder will be fine to seal any minor leaks

Thanks a lot I will try that