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Author Topic: 1968 CL175 repair and build  (Read 13036 times)

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 96
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #80 on: Mar 09, 2017, 23:07:42 »
Finally got those bolts out, and got the covers off. I've got the stator side of the crank loose, but I can't seem to find a way to pop the other side off. I removed the clutch plates and all that stuff and I'm down to the retaining ring on the clutch itself. Do I need to take off the whole basket? Is there a bolt hidden back there somewhere?

Also I'm assuming that the smaller rotating thing on the clutch gear is the oil filter, looks like the screw there is stripped too so I'm gonna have to drill that out. Pics soon I promise!

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Edit: Also, after hammering the shit out of the top of the piston that's frozen I got exactly nowhere, so I'm thinking that since I have new cylinders I might just drill out the pin in the piston and pop it off that way, that's my best plan so far so please suggest something better haha.
« Last Edit: Mar 09, 2017, 23:09:30 by medicalmechanica »

Offline teazer

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #81 on: Mar 10, 2017, 00:29:48 »
The oil filter is attached to the end of the crankshaft and should be removed for cleaning and to get the gears off that are behind it.

Then you need to remove the clutch hum and basket and to get that off, you also have to remove the oil pump.  The pump is actuated by a flat "con rod" on teh back of the clutch basket and the basket and pump have to be wiggled off together.

There is a special tool to remove the oil slinger (centrifugal filter).  First you have to remove the end cap and clip and then you will see the castellated nut which has a tab washer in one of the slots.  Bend that out of the way and either grind a socket to fit the slots or buy the toll on ebay - they are cheap.  It would be helpful to those of us not in your shop to see pictures of the things that are problems/questions. That was we can be sure we're talking about the same parts that you are asking about.

Offline K4

  • Posts: 59
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #82 on: Mar 10, 2017, 05:23:42 »

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 96
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #83 on: Mar 13, 2017, 19:56:42 »
This might help with photos. It's on a '71 CB175.

http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/1-project-logs/17231-1971-cb175-k5-restoration.html
Dang this is perfect, thanks!

In other news, pictures.

First one is after I finally got the jugs off and confirmed that the rings had slid off the piston and jammed between them and the cylinder. I drilled straight through the overhang on the cylinder wall and tapped the pin out because that was the only way I could think of. I feel bad about it, but it worked.

Next one is taking off the oil cup, had to drill the head off and wiggle the cap out, but it's free.

The third picture is just the other side of the motor with the timing marks. I got the bolt in the end off shortly after, so I'm gonna pick up the bolt to thread in there and pop it off.

The last one is the clutch side. Is there a bolt in here somewhere that is still holding the case together? I took off everything on the bottom and every single thing I could find that'll keep them together but I just can't seem to split the cases. The left side is split, but the clutch side won't come apart.

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Offline teazer

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #84 on: Mar 13, 2017, 22:31:02 »
Couple of suggestions. 

Alternator rotor:  Remove the center bolts and screw in the rear axle until it bottoms against the crank and then tighten it some more.  Then strike teh end of the axle sharply and the rotor should pop off. Also remove the sprocket and circlip . 

Clutch side: remove the nut inside the oil slinger, then remove the slinger and the first gear behind it.  Then undo the two oil pump nuts (they have tab washers) and slide the clutch and oil pump off together.

Then remove the shift shaft and carefully lift it off the shift drum.
Smack the clutch shaft lightly straight down and straight up with a rubber mallet (do not use a metal hammer) and the two case halves should crack open. 

Later 175/200 motors have an extra hidden bolt hiding inside the sump plate but early sloper motors do not.



Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 96
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #85 on: Mar 13, 2017, 22:43:34 »
Couple of suggestions. 

Alternator rotor:  Remove the center bolts and screw in the rear axle until it bottoms against the crank and then tighten it some more.  Then strike teh end of the axle sharply and the rotor should pop off. Also remove the sprocket and circlip . 

Clutch side: remove the nut inside the oil slinger, then remove the slinger and the first gear behind it.  Then undo the two oil pump nuts (they have tab washers) and slide the clutch and oil pump off together.

Then remove the shift shaft and carefully lift it off the shift drum.
Smack the clutch shaft lightly straight down and straight up with a rubber mallet (do not use a metal hammer) and the two case halves should crack open. 

Later 175/200 motors have an extra hidden bolt hiding inside the sump plate but early sloper motors do not.
Thanks!
I guess the question is, as you confirmed I don't have any secret bolts, do I need to actually remove the alternator rotor? My new crankshaft already has one attached. I'm assuming I'll have to pop the clutch basket and the oil slinger off and I'm waiting for the little wrench for that castle nut to come in the mail. Now that I have the jugs off, once I get the case open I'm going to have to take everything out of them so I can clean them out, but I can just skip the alternator rotor step right?

I'm gonna have to pinstripe your name on this bike somewhere haha, thanks dude.

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Offline teazer

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #86 on: Mar 14, 2017, 17:31:46 »
IS there an oil seal behind that alternator and how will you replace it on the crank you plan on using?  Just looking ahead a couple of steps.

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 96
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #87 on: Mar 21, 2017, 20:40:41 »
IS there an oil seal behind that alternator and how will you replace it on the crank you plan on using?  Just looking ahead a couple of steps.
It looks like I can use my original crankshaft after all, so this one will hopefully go to a good home.
On the other side of the engine, the oil slinger thing is really on there so I'm gonna need a really big breaker bar or something since I don't have any air tools here. The case is split everywhere but behind the oil slinger and clutch basket so maybe there's something back there holding me up.

I'm frustrated haha, I know that if I could split the case and clean it I'd have it back together in a couple hours so this thing is driving me nuts.

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Offline teazer

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #88 on: Mar 21, 2017, 22:50:48 »
Did you pry back the tab of that lock washer in the slots in the castle nut?  After that, take the tool plus a short extension plus a short bar and smack it with a rubber mallet.  One quick blow should get it free.

Then thread an 8mm (IIRC) bolt into the center of the slinger to pry it off the crank. 

Then remove one primary drive gear

Then remove the clutch basket plus oil pump (two nuts plus tab washer)

Then the two halves should split.  Sometimes you have to strike the crank upwards with a rubber mallet but take care and do not use a metal hammer.

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 96
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #89 on: Apr 04, 2017, 21:48:26 »
Yay!

Now if I can get the piston off the crank I'll be set to rebuild.

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