CJ360 Keep blowing main fuse

TJGM

TJGM

Of Wild Kind...
Hey guys,
I think I already know the answer to this, but it there a common spot for a short, or I looking at a 6 pack and a Saturday night looking for a loose wire ?

Thanks,
~T
 
Have you tested to see if its grounding out (meter from frame to fuse connector with fuse removed) ? did you do any work recently around the hand controls, have the tank off or anything? Pinch points first and then look for chaffed harness... look in the headlight bucket for loos wires... may be a good time to get some CRC electrical cleaner and hit all of your connections, use needle nose to get a grip up close don't yank em apart.

Good luck mang... electrical gremlins can be a pain.
 
On top of everything Tune said, check the connectors on the fuse panel itself. I've had bikes doing the same thing and it turned out to be loose and oxidized fuse connectors.
 
Tune-A-Fish© said:
Have you tested to see if its grounding out (meter from frame to fuse connector with fuse removed) ? did you do any work recently around the hand controls, have the tank off or anything? Pinch points first and then look for chaffed harness... look in the headlight bucket for loos wires... may be a good time to get some CRC electrical cleaner and hit all of your connections, use needle nose to get a grip up close don't yank em apart.

Good luck mang... electrical gremlins can be a pain.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
Hate to sound like a dummy, I have power across the fuse terminal and the frame, means something is touching the frame somewhere ?

Thanks,
~T
 
TJGM said:
Thanks,
Hate to sound like a dummy, I have power across the fuse terminal and the frame, means something is touching the frame somewhere ?

Thanks,
~T
Click to expand...

That would an affirmative... should be open (zero ohms or voltage) from fuse (opposite battery side) to frame
 
Right, after writing that I figured that out, should have power on one side and none on the other, which is the case. Gonna look for some looseys in the headlamp.

Thanks,
~T
 
If the connection is loose or oxidized, you will still show power on both sides, but the resistance will be higher and thus cause heat. Too much heat will cause a fuse to blow.
 
Tune-A-Fish© said:
Have you tested to see if its grounding out (meter from frame to fuse connector with fuse removed) ? did you do any work recently around the hand controls, have the tank off or anything? Pinch points first and then look for chaffed harness... look in the headlight bucket for loos wires... may be a good time to get some CRC electrical cleaner and hit all of your connections, use needle nose to get a grip up close don't yank em apart.

Good luck mang... electrical gremlins can be a pain.
Click to expand...

Think I found my gremlin. What you wrote got me thinking, I had just changed out the hand control, added a small little thing. the connectors for it didn't have a rubber sleeve like the old ones and I think I had 2 that would touch going into a 2 hole female connector. And males shouldn't touch when going into a 2 holed female, right, right ?
Hope to get out for a test ride be for winter.

On the funny side, I couldn't get the pig to start afterwards, kicked and kicked, ran a one leg marathon ! Then tested for spark and my plug was dead... Easy fix, that.

Thanks guys !

~T
 
Nope, just blew the fuse starting the bike. Ran for about 3 seconds before shitting the bed. Well, at least I have something to do whilst the wife and kids are at church on Sunday !

~ T
 
Just wanted to throw a quick update at you. I bugs me when someone asks for help on here and never comes back with any resolution

I think, fingies crossed, I have the bike sorted out. Went through the head lamp and checked anything I did, took the tank off and check every other connection. Didn't find any obvious villains, making it a tad anti-climactic. But it starts and runs. Gave it a few figure 8's in the parking lot, had the boys with me so I couldn't take it down the road.

Thanks for all the suggestions,
~T
 
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