FZR600 Neo-Cafe

Still beavering away. Here's the front wheel. The discs aren't rusty, It's a reflection of the flash off the brickwork.
 

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You can't turn up on here and start using words like gauche.
It's that kind of language that causes international incidents.
 
I quite like beavers. Wonderful animals 8)

Been working on the tail/seat unit today. Got a tail from an early R6. Jeez, are they wide or what? I'm a big lad, almost 6-Four in my socks and 265, but I look like a toy perched on one. To make matters worse, it's wider than the fuel tank cover and looks daft. Not a problem - cut out 3" along the middle length -ways, and used the bits I chopped out to fashion braclets which I bonded with Sikaflex to reattach the two halves. Lovely.
 
The Limey, ask any girl in Canada to show you her beaver and you will either get lucky or punched LOL
 
What's this sikaflex all about? I need to repair a side panel, sounds like it might do the trick. I did a search and it came up with lots of different ones.
 
It's a high strength automotive adhesive, used for sticking spoilers etc to bodywork. I had half a tube knocking about from another job.
 
The stuff I used is Sikaflex EBT in black, which is their general purpose adhesive and sealant. Plenty of 'Sikaflex EBT' on eBay and the like. Used properly it'll join sheet steel to sheet steel and give a stronger join than welding, and that's no bull.
 
Rubbed down and painted the fork sliders with PJ1 frame paint. Nice. New seals and oil ordered.

Had my first peer around the engine. Peering down the inlets shows number 3 suspiciously full of rust. Not so nice. Generous quantities of Duck Oil squirted down the ports and I'll start stripping the motor in due course. I'm reckoning on a full top end rebuild at the very least.
 
The Limey said:
The stuff I used is Sikaflex EBT in black, which is their general purpose adhesive and sealant. Plenty of 'Sikaflex EBT' on eBay and the like. Used properly it'll join sheet steel to sheet steel and give a stronger join than welding, and that's no bull.

Thank you!
 
No worries. It's seriously good shizzle. A friend of mine works for a defence contractor and he first put me onto it. They use it for fitting spall liners to armoured vehicles, so you know it's good shit.
 
Still waiting for fork seals and oil to arrive before I can get the front end on. While I've ground to a halt I've started slowly stripping the engine. Cams and bearings look excellent, as do the valve buckets. Very good news on that front.

I'm not looking forward to getting the head off and seeing what #3 jug looks like inside, but I'll know tomorrow.
 
Head off. Mixed findings.

Rust on the valves of the centre chambers, so a head rebuild will be required. The head is otherwise good, so may be worth it.

Barrels not so good. Pot three was full of rusty water. Shame, because the other bores look clean. A wipe around with Duck Oil and scotchbrite shows the rust has etched the bore, so it would need a re bore, which would necessitate new pistons.

Which would be an expensive shame as the pistons all look good, minimal carbon, only the slightest of scuffing on the skirts. I think it might be easiest to get a new block, run a glazebuster through it and re use my existing pistons with new rings

Either way, the noise of cash registers going 'kerching' will feature prominently in my life soon. Pics to follow soon.
 
I wouldn't have thought a complete fzr or thundercat engine would cost as much as having your motor rebuilt, I doubt if it can be rebored.
 
They can take up to a +1mm rebore, and +0.5 and +1 kits are available, but very expensive.

A whole engine is an option that I won't dismiss and will keep my eyes peeled. However, good, low mileage complete engines go for proper money over here, and probably wouldn't save me much, or even anything, over the cost of a head rebuild and a second hand block. There there's the risk of you never really know what you're getting...

I'm inclined to rebuild, but I'm keeping options open.
 
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