And then there were two.. 1976 GT250 Rebuild

Got the bottom triple painted up, bearing pressed on, and "bits" re assembled.
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I was going to try to get away without painting the top clamp.. but I don't think I can put it back together without giving it a fresh coat.
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Looks great. Pretty soon you'll have a roller! I'll come down with a length of rope and tow you around the neighborhood behind the Mini. You'll have to supply your own "vroom, vroom." though.
 
Yeah, I wish I had a good machine shop connection, so many things could be so much better... gonna have to work on that here.
 
ridesolo said:
Looks great. Pretty soon you'll have a roller! I'll come down with a length of rope and tow you around the neighborhood behind the Mini. You'll have to supply your own "vroom, vroom." though.
Might have to take you up on that, though last time a mini pulled in the drive, some of my outside parts stash came up missing =p I'll work on my vroom vroom sounds to better test the suspension =)
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Yeah, I wish I had a good machine shop connection, so many things could be so much better... gonna have to work on that here.
Yeah, a good machine shop makes this hobby much easier for sure. I don't get to make the fancy billet parts like when I worked there, but I'm still thankful that I can still roll in there on lunch break and get a little government work done here and there.
 
hurco550 said:
Yeah, a good machine shop makes this hobby much easier for sure. I don't get to make the fancy billet parts like when I worked there, but I'm still thankful that I can still roll in there on lunch break and get a little government work done here and there.

For sure, I had to pay $40 (worth it) and drive back and forth wait two days bla bla bla for a shop to take a few thousandths off a pivot race, but too spend a few grand on a lathe for spacers and the occasional use it's hard to justify... but I'm on the hunt for a combo lathe mill anyway :eek:
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
For sure, I had to pay $40 (worth it) and drive back and forth wait two days bla bla bla for a shop to take a few thousandths off a pivot race, but too spend a few grand on a lathe for spacers and the occasional use it's hard to justify... but I'm on the hunt for a combo lathe mill anyway :eek:
I hear ya, but such is true with any shop equipment. I have a neighbor that will let me use his chanel locks anytime I want for free, but I would rather spend $20 and have my own to use when I need em. Bummer there is such a big difference between $20 and $2000 ha. I will bet you though that if you buy a mill or a lathe (or a combo), you will use it for more than a few spacers and such, you will soon have a fully custom machined bike ;)
 
Fork seals came in today. Bought em off of feebay. Weren't even in a package, just loose in the shipping envelope ha. Did come with this fancy nylon strap (the use of which I am unsure)
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The strap you loop through itself to make a soft tie down hook. That way you don't have to hook metal hooks to your bike. You need two to tie a bike down though.
 
Yeah I have a few of those... wouldn't trust my bike to this one though haha
 
Got my headlight ears polished up and back on. The all balls tapered bearings set the top clamp up a bit, or the bottom one down a bit.... or maybe a bit of both, but either way the headlight ears don't fit between the two as tight as they did before. I may have to put some spacers in or something. Also got the bars polished a bit and put back on.
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Tore the forks apart.... well one side anyways. The second one I managed to strip the Alan head that holds the damper rod in. More on that later hopefully.... any tips from the wizards on here?
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hurco,
I've used o-rings(stacked if needed) to 'tighten up' between the headlight ears and it worked well for me before..
I've stripped the allen heads(6mm?) on the bottom of forks before;I usually hit'em w/ an impact before I remove the front fender.. but I think you can do the same thing and first 'fit' an SAE allen head bit,which is a very small increment/size bigger(less than a 7mm)I've 'repaired' quite a few like that.
When I strip the head w/ a 6mm,I then carefully hammer in the next size up SAE allen bit(it's good that the oem allen head bolts are soft and the allen bit sockets are hardened)socket until it won't go in any further;this is a slow & careful 'straight-in' procedure,a little at a time..
I can then carefully hook up my impact to the allen bit and give it a few short and slow pulls on the trigger on medium power(depending on the power of your gun..)and it comes out most of the time.. I think it's best if you assemble the front end again w/ fender(fork brace would be better) nice and tight before giving it the last step here.
 
Thanks grcamna5
I hadn't thought of o rings, that is a great idea! I will try the impact tomorrow. It is just such a shallow headed bolt that it strips easily. If I can't get it using that method, I'll just hang the tungsten out and try to TIG a rod onto it to get it out. I sure appreciate the advice. I gave up pretty quick on it tonight lol it will be tomorrow's challenge =)
 
hurco,
I own these 'Lisle' brand SAE allen sockets which are real sharp on the ends(I don't use SAE much so mine are still sharp)and well hardened;I always turn my fork leg upside down in the vise just to carefully(straight)hammer in the allen socket & then I install it back in the bike(it holds the tube and slider in the fender)to hold it.I guess if you have a friend around it'd be good of them to pull hard outward on the upper tube while you're impacting w/ the slider in the vise w/ the fork long-ways.
 
Well I used the 1/4" driven in and it still stripped it.. I guess I'll be drilling the head off.....
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Can you get one of these bad boys in there? Walmart has em.

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Nope, already tried haha not enough room between the head and the counterbore
 
I have a bunch of the other kind of Easy Out that goes into the hole rather than around the outside like those do. They are yours to use if you want, brother.
 
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