1974 CB360 - first bike/build

290f is probably pushing the limit as there is a lot of heat radiated from cylinder head. Saying that though, 'plate' will be around 6~7 inches away from head and be somewhat shielded by carbs. I knew I should have put an intake probe on 378 motor ;D
 
Kinda sounds like something wasn't quite prepped right if the paint kept running on him. Can't say he didn't try, 3 times over I would have had enough too. :eek:

Coming along nicely!
 
Been slow going the past few weeks. On my top clamp I had to use a sanding drum on the end of my drill to grind down where the anodizing process decreased the inside diameter. It was only about .10 mm when measuring left to right. Front to back it was dead on 33mm. And just in case anybody is curious how it grips hold of my forks, I am adding a short video to show how it tightens as well as the clamp used to do so.





(The video should play in my flickr account if it doesn't want to here)








And I freaking snapped the front stud bolt on my right fork when tightening down the front wheel - torque wrench was set to spec, rear bolt didn't give me any problems - but the front just snapped. I have replacements on order while I try to get the broken one out of there. It is going to take some heat.


 
make sure you are tightening the front bolt first, its the one that sits flush - the rear should have a gap and is tightened AFTER the front one is torqued.
 
Sonreir said:
I highly recommend a stud extractor and impact wrench.

If I can't get it out tonight - I am going to bring up to work and see if the machine shop can't get it out for me.
 
That stud looks like it had been stretched previously, there is still slight 'necking' showing in picture.
Remove fork top nut and get the area around stud real hot, it may be Loctited in. I think temp needs to be minimum of 230f ?
If it's hot enough, a vice grip will loosen it up, you shouldn't need to re-drill anything but a good 8x1.25 tap should be used to clean threads
A good stud extractor is EXPENSIVE, the only one worth a damn is the Snap-On CG500, I paid almost $110.00 for mine in 2005~6 , wish I'd seen one 30 yrs ago would have saved me a lot of grief on various motors
 
My stud extractor cost $10. That thing is at least an inch above the surface. No need for specialized tools.

191-806.01_s500_p1.jpg
 
That was my go to for a while, until I couldn't get the studs out of the T500 upper cases.
 
There's something to be said for correct tools. Stud extractors work SO well. It could have broken off flush with end of the fork. :-X
 
irk miller said:
My stud extractor cost $10. That thing is at least an inch above the surface. No need for specialized tools.


191-806.01_s500_p1.jpg

I mentioned that first, but, if you intend to re-use studs it isn't the best thing to use
 
crazypj said:
I mentioned that first, but, if you intend to re-use studs it isn't the best thing to use

I typically don't reuse broken studs. Also, the FSM and Haynes manuals for the F650 I built tell you to use pliers to remove the studs so you can get the head and cylinder off the bottom end during a rebuild.
 
I've had to do a few crankcase replacements over the years, cases don't generally come with studs so you have to swap them over. One of the techs did a Kawasaki 600 using 'pliers/vice grips' method. He was a bit dumb, when the first stud snapped at 18ft/lbs, he went around the rest of the head and broke all the others
Cost him a bunch of time and money.
 
I ended up taking the lower down to the auto-repair department - it took a vice and a couple of guys to get that thing out of there. Got the new studs (went ahead and ordered four) in over the weekend and was able to get things back on track.


 
I got some work done over the weekend - but nothing went as smoothly as I had hoped.






I got to clean this mess up when my oil drain pan couldn't keep up with the flow from my truck.



I was able to drop the engine back in without scratching my new paint or breaking my back.





Took some negotiating with my brake pedal to create some clearance between it and the 2-into-1 Mac exhaust I am mounting. I used a small propane torch to heat it up a bit, threw it into my vice and was able to get just enough room to keep it from hitting the pipes when I release the pedal.



 
I repainted the brake pedal using some black caliper paint. I let it sit for a few hours and then baked it for a little over an hour with my front calipers that I had painted earlier in the week. The paint will probably flake off sitting that close to the exhaust. I did get my front brake back together, and reinstalled the front fender with out scratching the paint on my forks.
 
huck_finn said:
I repainted the brake pedal using some black caliper paint. I let it sit for a few hours and then baked it for a little over an hour with my front calipers that I had painted earlier in the week. The paint will probably flake off sitting that close to the exhaust. I did get my front brake back together, and reinstalled the front fender with out scratching the paint on my forks.

You'll be fine with the paint near the exhaust. I used spray can epoxy paint within 1/2" of the headers on my XL with 0 issues.
 
are you missing the return stop for the rear brake pedal or was there just not enough adjustment to keep it from hitting?
 
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