1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)

xb33bsa said:
"out of round" tells us nothing,there is a very specific procedure for checking the crank berarings for radial clearance and also for concentricity of the crank unit as it is a built up crank
how did you fionmd what you found ?
all that said how did it run did it shake ?

I checked using the following method and the parts I've indicated with the red dots were measuring from 0.001 inch to 0.005 - 0.006 inch in difference.
 

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Saturdays Wrench said:
I checked using the following method and the parts I've indicated with the red dots were measuring from 0.001 inch to 0.005 - 0.006 inch in difference.
so you are concerned about radil runout on the crank flywheels./ how did you have the crank supported doing this cherck ?
 
xb33bsa said:
so you are concerned about radil runout on the crank flywheels./ how did you have the crank supported doing this cherck ?

Yes. Sorry for not giving you all the info.. I do not have a v-block so I measured it while it was sitting in the upper crankcase (crankcase sitting upside down). Probably not the best way to measure it hence why I would like to take it in to someone who can measure it properly on a v-block.
 
Hey Guys!

A quick update.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_hUaFvmhFY


Also, here is a video and some pictures of the new engine components from Bore Tech! So damn excited about this stuff!! Cylinders have been treated to Bore Tech's Carbide Bore Process to fit their Big Bore pistons. Cylinder head looks immaculate! New Kibblewhite valves & springs installed. Light port & polish on the head also, cleaned up really nicely! Cam case has been machined to fit the Mega Cycle hard faced #12320-RG Camshaft. Rocker arms hard faced and reground by Mega Cycle, looking brand new. New KA Slipper cam chain tensioner to upgrade from the current rolling system. Dynatek Mini Coils. New timing chain... I think I just jizzed in my pants.

I really just can't wait to get this engine rebuild going. I have found a pretty reputable mechanic to help with the rebuild, which is very exciting news and will help me sleep at night once it's all said and done. After watching some of my content on YouTube he happily agreed to be on my show and allow me to film the entire process! So everything will be documented for those who want to learn along. I am pretty excited about the whole thing.

So for now enjoy the pics and video and I'll be back with more soon!

https://youtu.be/B6TBa90uZHQ
 

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Dude, I just have to say that I love the videos... I'm working on a 73 CB350 as well, so keep at it and say ahead of me so I can watch a video and make sure I'm not screwing something up ;)
 
preachswanson said:
Dude, I just have to say that I love the videos... I'm working on a 73 CB350 as well, so keep at it and say ahead of me so I can watch a video and make sure I'm not screwing something up ;)
Ahhhh, the student becomes the teacher.
 
Great job man! I've been following your vids on Youtube and just stumbled onto this build thread. Keep it up. ;D
 
preachswanson said:
Dude, I just have to say that I love the videos... I'm working on a 73 CB350 as well, so keep at it and say ahead of me so I can watch a video and make sure I'm not screwing something up ;)

Well that was the idea behind all of this.. knowing I would screw up eventually. We can all learn together! Thanks for the kind words.

redwillissuperman said:
Ahhhh, the student becomes the teacher.

haha I don't know about that.. More like the brave(stupid) kid who tests the ice on the pond first haha

Kcomrie71 said:
Great job man! I've been following your vids on Youtube and just stumbled onto this build thread. Keep it up. ;D

Thanks dude! I appreciate the support :D
 
NO sandblasting the cases.

Assemble the cases top and bottom, as well as the side covers and the parts attached to those that you wish to paint. Leave the jugs and top end off. Close all exposed threaded holes, blind holes, mating surfaces and other holes with Frog tape. It's green painters tape, best you'll find at a typical hardware store.

You basically want the interior of the cases completely sealed before media blasting. Using dry media will make the primer cling to the cases for good. Using vapor blasting on the jugs and top end will prevent oxidation and maintain a bare look. I prefer not to paint the top end because the mix of heat and occasional oil drop make it very tough to keep looking new. Carb cleaner will eat it right up and now your only option is to tear it down and start again.

It has been done before, so don't be discouraged if that's what you're looking for.
 
The wheels here are powder coated but that deep gun gray and resonator is cerakote. Ceramic and gorgeous.
 

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Redliner said:
NO sandblasting the cases.

Assemble the cases top and bottom, as well as the side covers and the parts attached to those that you wish to paint. Leave the jugs and top end off. Close all exposed threaded holes, blind holes, mating surfaces and other holes with Frog tape. It's green painters tape, best you'll find at a typical hardware store.

You basically want the interior of the cases completely sealed before media blasting. Using dry media will make the primer cling to the cases for good. Using vapor blasting on the jugs and top end will prevent oxidation and maintain a bare look. I prefer not to paint the top end because the mix of heat and occasional oil drop make it very tough to keep looking new. Carb cleaner will eat it right up and now your only option is to tear it down and start again.

It has been done before, so don't be discouraged if that's what you're looking for.

Thanks for the advice as usual man!! 8)
 
Hey Guys!

Been really getting back into this project after taking time off in the summer and it feels really good to be getting back into the garage again. Been busy busy busy doing a lot of research on many different aspects of the bike. Lots of reading and reaching out to some experienced builders for advice. I think I may just know everything there is to know about motorcycle chains at this point. More on that much much later.. For now here's what I've been up to.

I originally sanded and buffed the hubs out to a nice glossy polished aluminum finish. I obviously needed to coat them with something to protect them from oxidization. I wanted to get them clear powder coated but had a really hard time getting the rubber bushings out of the rear hub. For those that don't know, you can't leave rubber parts in something that is being powder coated because they need to bake the part in an oven at high temps. I knew I was going to probably have to damage the rubber bushings in order to remove them so I luckily thought ahead and looked on the internets to see if I could find a replacement. They were impossible to find. Not only that they are pretty expensive. So I went for the spray can route and decided to clear coat them myself. I used the Duplicolor Clear Wheel coating and it left a really undesirable finish on the parts. I was disappointed. Then I decided that I would just paint them black because I thought that with the colour scheme I was thinking about it would actually look better. Again I mistakenly used the Duplicolor Wheel coating stuff. It only comes in matte black and I wanted glossy, so I had to also buy a can of glossy clear coat. I spent a lot of time re-sanding the part and painting them with both cans. It looked like **** and not only that since I used 2 cans and had so many coats of paint, it was really hard to get my spokes into the proper position because it was so thick. When I was building my wheels originally I ended up chipping a lot of the paint.. It was a nightmare. Well, if you're going to do something, do it right! (the 1st time). Learn from my experiences and take my advice and DO NOT USE THAT DUPLICOLOR GARBAGE!

I used VHT Brake Caliper Paint instead! I mean if Batman, Chuck Norris, The Fonz, The Hoff, Will Smith, Borat, PRESIDENT OBAMA!, THE POPE!, Rambo, The Terminator, Jules & Vincent and a damn Orangutan give the thumbs up.. You just don't argue with that.

So I had to strip the damn hubs to get that Duplicolor junk off. So time consuming, but I learned a valuable lesson and now I am passing it on to you. The VHT Caliper paint went on so nicely! One can gave me a really durable, super glossy finish. Plus, since I only had 3 coats it was a lot thinner and when I went to lace up the hubs the second time they went together with much more ease. I am not a salesman for this stuff, I just liked the way it went on. Plus you bake it for an hour in the oven at 200 degrees. I had my bearings in already but it was fine.

Lacing up the hubs felt really cool. Wheel building is a really neat process. Here is a video of how it went:

WHAT'S NEXT?

I've stripped the cases from all paint and grease using a store bought paint stripper that is friendly towards all metals. There are some that aren't safe on aluminum so be careful about that. After the strip was applied and thoroughly cleaned off I roughly sanded down the cases with 200 grit sandpaper to give the paint something to stick to. I was debating on getting my cases vapor blasted, but honestly, I really don't think they need it at all. They are super clean, stripped down to the bare metal and ready to be painted! I am going to use a Self Etching primer and then a high temperature glossy black paint. I am going for a nice black finish for the main parts of the engine. Some people say to skip the primer but I really don't understand why you would. It helps the paint set much better and it even recommends it on the instructions.. Why not just spend an extra tiny bit of money for the best results possible?? The last thing I want is the paint cracking and chipping in a few years and having to pull the engine to repaint.. No thanks. This time I'll do it the best way possible. I'll paint those up tonight at home and post pics/video later. I swear I am a damn ninja now with the rattle can since I have done it so many times!

After that I really want to build my forks and install my new springs. My appointment with the mechanic is next Saturday to get this engine all inspected and put back together! So excited to install all these new parts with the help of an experienced vintage bike mechanic.

Stay tuned for that. Hopefully have that update in mid December. After that I will install the motor onto the frame, then the forks/upper triple, swing arm and wheels will be ready! Dropping those off to another mechanic to get trued and rubbers installed next week. Over the holidays I will have my custom harness built and will be installing that hopefully over the holidays. For now I am researching front brake master cylinders and Mikuni Carbs set ups. So much reading but I am learning a ton!

It's all coming together quickly and I am giving myself a deadline of March 1st to get this bike firing up!!!

Until next time, thanks for your interest and support.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pawi9Mj1vdM
 

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fatfurious2 said:
looks like my old 350! good luck with yours!

Thanks!


Getting ready to button up my engine this weekend and wanted to make sure I am organized. Just want to make sure I know how to install the KA Performance Cam Chain Tensioner, if otherwise can you please advise or point me in the direction of some online instructions please?

- I still need these parts I have marked in red for the install correct?

- I've read that you may need to shave some rubber from the OEM cam sprocket.. Is this correct or only in certain situations?
- I've also read that the install is a bitch because the chain is super tight, is this normal? Any recommendations on what to expect?
- The head has been machined to fit the new KA slipper so I'm good on that end
- I have the flat sided Tsubaki chain, so I should be good there

Can anyone post a diagram or pics of their install? I've only found this thread that tells me little info: Installing KA cam chain slipper?


Any other advice or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks again!
 

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Saturdays Wrench said:
- I still need these parts I have marked in red for the install correct?

Can't say #9 is necessary. The rest is absolutely. When you start to put that together it will become obvious quickly.

Saturdays Wrench said:
- I've read that you may need to shave some rubber from the OEM cam sprocket.. Is this correct or only in certain situations?

Can't say. I didn't have to touch the rubber on mine. Probably worn down anyway.

Saturdays Wrench said:
- I've also read that the install is a bitch because the chain is super tight, is this normal? Any recommendations on what to expect?

Nope. Since the sprocket can rest on the thin part of the camshaft until you're ready to lift it and the chain onto its mounting surface, it's very easy. Just DON'T install the tensioner rod housing until it's all bolted in, that means the sprocket on the shaft and the end-journals (points and tach take-off housings) are all in place. Mind the o-rings on the valve adjuster rods and lightly oil the points-side oil seal without getting the paper gasket wet.


Saturdays Wrench said:
- The head has been machined to fit the new KA slipper so I'm good on that end

Make sure it moves freely. Any binding will not allow it to take up the slack.

Saturdays Wrench said:
- I have the flat sided Tsubaki chain, so I should be good there

Great chains.

This was the only photo I took. Was dealing with borrowing people's phones for pics so it wasn't so easy then.
 

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Guys! I had the most amazing weekend and don't have a video to post YET, but I wanted to write about it while it was fresh in my mind. I took my engine in pieces to a vintage bike mechanic in Newtownville, ON to get help putting it back together. I was fairly confident I could do it myself, but I really thought it would be better to get some guidance and learn something in the process that I could share with everyone else. I was not disappointed!

The shop is called Busche's Garage and the owner is a guy named Jeff Busche. Super nice fellow and very knowledgeable about motorcycle mechanics. Comes from a Tool & Dye/Machining background with something like 25 yrs experience. Upon arrival we laid everything out on the shop benches. EVERY little piece. He went through it with a magnifying glass.. literally. I knew right away I was in good hands. He commented on the internal components saying they were filthy. I had been up until about 1am the night before cleaning them. I wasn't offended... far from it! I was impressed actually because I knew he was being thorough. He proceeded to run every single little gear, bushing, rod, etc etc into his parts washing tub. When he was finished I was nearly floored.. Everything looked brand new! being a clean freak, it was pretty satisfying to see the clean parts come out of the washer.

He also inspected the vital areas, measuring things and generally just giving the engine a once over. He looked at the crankshaft very carefully and inspected the rods and the bearings. It was really cool to watch. He was teaching me as he went.. I was nerding out big time. He used a fly wheel puller to remove the alternator and starting clutch. He took my starting clutch apart and inspected it thoroughly, noting that I would need to replace the rolling pins in the clutch. I inspected them myself and would suggest the replacement if you haven't in awhile. The pins can become warped causing the starting clutch to slip. His machinist brain is fantastical.

He also commented on the oil splash plate that's located in the lower crankcase (the one that sits underneath the crankshaft). He asked me if I attempted to remove it in order to thoroughly clean underneath it and I said I wasn't comfortable removing it because it has 3 rivets and I didn't want to mess anything up. Plus how was I going to put it back?! I had neither the tools or experience for that. I told him I used this bendable scrubbing brush to get beneath the plate and was satisfied with that... Well as I hung out with him more, I came up with the term "Busche Approved" and THAT was definitely NOT Busche Approved.

He immediately grabbed a hammer and a chisel and knocked those rivets off in about 3 seconds. Then, he made short work of the screws with his trusty hand impact driver and #3 Phillips! With 2 quick wraps and each screw was off! Pow Pow! We flipped over the plate to reveal a layer of caked on oil! The bottom of the plate was disgusting also!! Built up rust and gunk.. He looked like he wanted to smack me in the head and I felt a little embarrassed but he didn't mean it like that. He just wanted me to learn something and I did. Watching him do that will give me more confidence to remove things in the future and be a little more thorough in my cleaning. My "punishment" for not being thorough with the cleaning was to bust out the varsol and clean the bottom of the case! He also let me use his soda blaster to clean off the plate very well.. it looked brand new when I was done with it. He then proceeded to drill and tap a new thread for the plate. It needs some center support so the middle screw was vital. He did this with ease while I watched by on the sidelines.

I have to admit that I was a bit nervous of this foreign screw in my lower crankcase, directly beneath my crankshaft that whips around at mind bending speeds!! But I trust Jeff. We red locketited that bastard and installed a lock washer also. **sidebar about lock washers: For those that do not know.. They are those little washers with the slit in them that kind of curl slightly (the two ends do not meet). When you press on them they sort of look like a flat spring. Well this places a load onto the screw when compressed, which acts as like a stretching device that helps to keep the screw in place. Feeling pretty good about cleaning the bottom case underneath the windage plate! Knock a few more ticks off the list and I was really feeling good about bring it to a professional.

After we sorted out the windage plate and lower crankcase, it was time to properly lube up the clean internal parts and start the reassembly! Before that though he soaked the new cam chain in motor oil, said it was good practice. I like this guys style. He thoroughly cleaned off the grease that was on it when we took it out of the package. I can't remember what he called it but I think it was something like "packing grease" or something.. Maybe storing grease. I don't know but he wiped that crap off and we soaked the chain while we prepped the rest of the parts for the lower half of the engine.

He showed me how to properly pre-lube the parts with assembly lube. There are certain areas that really need the lube and others that it's important you do not add any lube whatsoever! I was completely unaware of this. He taught me that you do not add lube to the bearings that make contact with the crankcase in anyway. This is to allow for proper heat transfer. An important aspect of engine cooling. How can a bearing properly cool if it's insulated with a layer of goob!? I'm learning a lot. I would have definitely made the rookie mistake of slathering those bearings and gears with grease. He was very precise with it, getting it into the nooks and crannies of the moving parts.. again my soul was at ease. This engine is getting the treatment.

After everything was properly lubed up we starting installing the shift cam and shifting forks followed by the transmission. Everything was slowly coming together and it was really cool learning how to properly install everything. Once we got it in there it just looked brand new to me.. I was very impressed. We continued with the endless cam chain and crankshaft, cleaned the crankshaft mounting bracket and properly torqued the bolts into place. It was beginning to look like an engine again!!

After that we went to work on the lower crankcase. Meticulously cleaning the mating surface with a razor blade and installing new seals and the kick start mechanism. The mechanism was thoroughly cleaned and surfaces refurbished with a wire brush and sanding paper.

Then there was nothing left to do but THOROUGHLY inspect everything inside the engine, apply the liquid gasket and get these case halves back together and sealed up! We busted out the brand new stainless steel bolts and were blown away by the contrast against the black cases.. I can visualize the engine in my mind and I think it's going to look spectacular! He explained that a good method for putting in the crankcase bolts was to set everything aside in their pairs. Then apply with anti-seize and place them into their appropriate slots. If one of the bolts stuck out too far from it's hole then you know you messed up somehow.. Similarly if it didn't reach the threads it was time to rethink something.

We torqued the new stainless steel bolts to the specifications of the manufacturers recommendations instead of to that of what the manual said. The stainless, aftermarket bolts don't need as much torquing as the factory bolts by about a footpound or 2. We weren't too worried about this and went with the recommendation form the aftermarket bolt manufacturer.

When we got everything torqued down we flipped the engine over and I was just amazed with the results!! It looked like a brand new engine!! This is as far as we decided to take it and I will be back this coming weekend to finish up the top end and get this engine finished. I am just so excited to finally be at this stage of the build and I couldn't be happier. The bike is taking shape and it feels incredible after all the hard work I've been putting in.

I will be back with a new episode of Saturday's Wrench in the next week or 2.. Christmas is a busy time but I really want to get it out because it was really informative for me and I really think you guys are going to love it!

Until next time, thanks for your interest!
 

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Here is some before and after pics of the painting process. More pics to come of the top end, as I just finished painting it last night.
 

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