My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

djsmiles said:
Well how in the hell am I going to squeeze it back together safely and evenly? I've never heard of this happening.
What if I wrap a wratcheting strap around it, tighten it up and let it sit overnight?
Is it possible to break welds or crack it?
On a positive note I got the bike running for a couple minutes. I had to play with the throttle to keep it running. Tomorrow night I'll start adjusting points and carb screws and whatever other YouTube videos I can watch.


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That's common when someone has tried to blow out a minor dent with airline. You may get lucky with a 2" wide strap or several narrower ones to pull sides back in. You will have to go further than width you need as there will be quite a lot of spring back
 
Maybe I'll mess with that this coming winter. Hey PJ, now that I'm finally at the point to start adjusting the carbs that you rebuilt for me, I don't know if you remember but do you think the right jets are in it now for my set up or might I have to change them,?


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Almost road ready


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djsmiles said:
Maybe I'll mess with that this coming winter. Hey PJ, now that I'm finally at the point to start adjusting the carbs that you rebuilt for me, I don't know if you remember but do you think the right jets are in it now for my set up or might I have to change them,?


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Can't remember if there are 110 or 115 but either will get it running and rev to at least 7~8K. You'll have to do plug chop for high rpm , shorter the exhaust, more secondary main jet you need. Are they stock bars? Looks good all silver.
 
Thanks PJ. What does 'plug chop' mean? Handlebars are aftermarket. I had it running for a couple minutes last night but I had to keep playing with the throttle to keep it running but it sounds good. I've been watching Common Motor's youtube videos about timing and points adjustment so I'm going to do all that tonight. I'll have to go over the whole bike to make sure all the bolts are tight, adjust the brakes and clutch, make sure I have the wheels centered as the front tire looks to sit a little bit more to the right. I haven't done anything with the rear shocks yet since I've never ridden it, I don't know if they're good or not. I was also thinking about painting the shock and leaving the spring chrome. The front fender is going to get sanded to look more like the tank. Eventually the seat will have to be remade because I'm not happy with the leatherwork. Right now tho I just want to get it running and ride it.
 
The idle adjuster is cable operated on left carb float bowl (usually just about behind clutch cable) screw it in a bit to get around 1000~1200 rpm idle speed. It's higher than manual states (950) but works better until bike has done 2~300 miles. I tend to have mine around 1100 rpm
 
So the idler adjuster screw is all the way out and it's running to high rpm's.
It also pops every once in a while. not as loud as a backfire but a big pop.
 
I figured out that I'm missing the cylinder head cover breather tube. Not sure if it is related. Could someone tell me what size tubing I need and where does the other end go?


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djsmiles said:
I figured out that I'm missing the cylinder head cover breather tube. Not sure if it is related. Could someone tell me what size tubing I need and where does the other end go?


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about 1/2" and it goes into the stock airbox - for emissions but really just can be routed anywhere - I have a little K&N filter on mine
 
djsmiles said:
So the idler adjuster screw is all the way out and it's running to high rpm's.
It also pops every once in a while. not as loud as a backfire but a big pop.

That sounds like a carb sync problem or exhaust leak?
 
I think it's a sync problem because if I push on the adjuster screw the idle slows down nicely. I found the strange tool on Amazon for $16.66.
My new problem is that my clutch has no effect. I've adjusted it according to the instructions but I can put the bike in gear without using the clutch handle. The ball bearing is in place. The adjuster screw feels very loose and I can tighten it down all the way but it's still loose . How do I trouble shoot this issue?

Are any members here in Des Moines? Now that I'm close to being able to ride I need some local fellow riders to hang out with.

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That's a real good price for the 8mm extended socket/screwdriver 'thing'You may have to get back inside clutch to find out why it isn't 'locking up' something must be assembled wrong or broken? Clutch not disengaging is more common than not engaging. You may not have the 'feel' for adjustment? If so it's better to do it with right engine cover removed
 
Hey PJ, I definitely do not have a feel for the clutch adjustment, this is my first time doing this. But I would think that I have it 'pretty close' according to the instructions so that it should react some way but it does nothing. A friend of a friend said that based on how it jumps forward and dies when i put it in gear that it's possible the clutch plates are stuck together. Does that sound reasonable? I have new clutch plates on the shelf, just haven't installed them because the right side cover is held on with screws and it was a real bastard removing them from the left side cover so I didn't want to do it if I didn't have to. They strip really easy and I messed up my paint job getting them out but it looks like I'll have to do it anyway.
 
If you can tighten the clutch adjuster all the way down, make sure all the parts are in there. I cant remember with all the threads lately about this same issue if I've mentioned it here, but there is a small ball bearing that goes in the clutch cam on the left side sprocket cover that often gets misplaced during assembly. Do you feel any resistance when pulling the lever in?
 
Here's the best instructions I've found on the clutch adjustment:

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html
 
Yes the ball bearing is in place. The clutch handle has tension like I expect it to, at least comparable to the college bikes where I took the safety course. It was about 20 years since I last rode (And crashed) a motorcycle so my experience is lacking. Thanks for the tip tho.


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Well guys I was wrong. When I said the clutch handle had tension it does not. A friend of a friend who has 16 bikes came over and he adjusted my clutch the same as his and there is no tension. So we got the right side cover off. The clutch plates don't look bad, the inside looks good. But when pulling the handle nothing happens. Has anyone experienced this before because we're baffled.


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