My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

advCo said:
I used a 12v 5ah Sealed lead acid home security system battery on my 360. It cost me all of $20 and lasted 4 years with zero issues. Just saying.
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Same here. The cheapy AGM in Cherry Bomb is still doing its job and going on...6 years maybe.
 
pidjones said:
Mailing a potentially damaged LiPo? Like mailing a ticki g time bomb, and I'm pretty sure illegal.
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antigravity requires the battery to be shipped back, I wonder if they know it's illegal


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Only time rectifier needs to be grounded is if it doesn't haver the ground built in. Never seen a Japanese rectifier without internal ground. The assembly is 'potted' and doesn't have any form of ground to the heatsinl. Pretty surte AG knows it's illegal to ship them back, just rely on customers being ignorant of the fact or, unwilling to deliberately break the law. Either way, looks like their warranty is pretty worthless
 
You do need to make sure the engine is grounded to frame properly, I fit a 'star' washers to top engine mount with a ground lead to frame. on ignition coil bolt.(use 12~14 ga wire) Make sure you have coils well grounded. I'm a bit paranoid about grounding stuff and often add a few extra ground leads to new wiring harness rather than rely on frame tp ground lights, signals, etc. I'm almost sure it's part of the reason people think 360 alternator is 'weak', if everything is partially insulated with paint or PC voltages will be low. I posted pics of meters on my 360 showing charge at idle with lights on (amps and volts)
 
crazypj said:
You do need to make sure the engine is grounded to frame properly, I fit a 'star' washers to top engine mount with a ground lead to frame. on ignition coil bolt.(use 12~14 ga wire) Make sure you have coils well grounded. I'm a bit paranoid about grounding stuff and often add a few extra ground leads to new wiring harness rather than rely on frame tp ground lights, signals, etc. I'm almost sure it's part of the reason people think 360 alternator is 'weak', if everything is partially insulated with paint or PC voltages will be low. I posted pics of meters on my 360 showing charge at idle with lights on (amps and volts)
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You can never really have too much grounding, but you can for sure not have enough, bad ground(s) causes all kinds of weird and bad shit.
 
All of my ground wires go to the battery and then one big wire from the battery to the motor.
So I got the new battery installed and it starts great and I can rev it up nice but out on the road when I give it gas it just sputters. I can't accelerate over 25 which is worse than when I had the bad battery.
I don't know what else to check.


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25 in which gear? Motor is grounded to frame? You can still get a weak spark if paint or powdercoat is insulating coils from engine. It's probably why Honda ran ground direct to coil mounting bolt (plus had unpainted area under coil mount)
 
Any gear. I did not have the motor grounded to the frame, I assumed that was achieved with the motor mounts so I just added a ground from the motor to the frame at bare metal but it didn't make a difference.


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A friend just stopped by and said the problem is definitely electrical, timing related but unsure if it's coils or bad ground or what so I'm going to dig into all that tomorrow.


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As I said earlier, easiest way is buy some 3/16 and 3/8" star washers, (for 6mm and 10mm bolts) They cut through any paint without removing a large area, with a little dilectric grease there is no chance of rust forming. I run a green wire front to back (headlight to taillight) then tap into it at various points (battery, coils, crankcase, top yoke, etc) If it won't go over 25 in any gear it may be carbs as well as timing, etc?
 
One thing at a time, PJ! haha we'll see. I've been looking at ignition coil replacements in case I need to do that, just getting prepared. Has anyone had experience with 4into1 ? They have positive reviews on their site but none on Amazon yet.
https://4into1.com/ignition-coils-and-caps-honda-cb-cl-sl350k-cb-cl-cj360/
 
crazypj said:
As I said earlier, easiest way is buy some 3/16 and 3/8" star washers, (for 6mm and 10mm bolts) They cut through any paint without removing a large area, with a little dilectric grease there is no chance of rust forming. I run a green wire front to back (headlight to taillight) then tap into it at various points (battery, coils, crankcase, top yoke, etc) If it won't go over 25 in any gear it may be carbs as well as timing, etc?
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Can't help with problem djsmiles, sorry for the threadjack.

pj how is that with the green wire?

Got pics?
 
djsmiles said:
One thing at a time, PJ! haha we'll see. I've been looking at ignition coil replacements in case I need to do that, just getting prepared. Has anyone had experience with 4into1 ? They have positive reviews on their site but none on Amazon yet.
https://4into1.com/ignition-coils-and-caps-honda-cb-cl-sl350k-cb-cl-cj360/
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I've only used 4into1 for OEM style fuel cap latches, I don't liker the bulky key ones that were fitted to later models (or re-call)
WhyNot said:
Can't help with problem djsmiles, sorry for the threadjack.

pj how is that with the green wire?

Got pics?
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When I make a new harness with unnecessary stuff removed I start with grounds. Certain stuff works better with a positive ground rather than relying on frame for ground. I may be why I don't have the charging issues 'everyone' seems to complain about? On some bikes, (Suzuki 'Oil Boilers' SACS motors) running a ground lead from battery direct to alternator helps prevent overcharging as the 'through frame grounding', engine mounts etc can get high resistance showing battery has low voltage (My Katana was charging at constant 17+v, even after fitting new $120.00 regulator) Did a bit of research and found out it is a problem due to 'old age' where multiple small resistances add up
 
I use 4into1 for a ton of stuff on mine - they are local so it helps, appointment only but i've gone in there a bunch for random stuff. they have a lot of stuff (the most in one spot that I have seen) for the cb360. just have to be aware and know for yourself what you are buying as they dont have the best descriptions or idea which parts are better for what
 
Thanks for the info.
I just remembered something. When I set the timing I may not have been on the right rotation.
I watched the common motor YouTube video and didn't feel pressure from the spark plug hole like they showed in the video so I went 180 degrees around and felt pressure and think I set it like that.
1. Could that cause the symptoms I'm experiencing?
2. To fix it, how do I get on the right rotation if it's off 180 degrees?


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Hey guys, you won't believe this. The gas cap breather vent must be clogged. I rode the bike with the cap open and had no problem accelerating.


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Ha! That's great. It's happened to me before too. Glad you figured it out. You can drill a 1/16th hole through the cap until you replace the cap, or just go with it.
 
djsmiles said:
Hey guys, you won't believe this. The gas cap breather vent must be clogged. I rode the bike with the cap open and had no problem accelerating.


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amazing! I just have a shit gasket, so it leaks when I corner :) and probably vents itself
 
Hey guys, happy Labor day weekend! So I wasn't able to get the fuel cap vent cleaned out so I just drilled through it. I also started all over with cam shaft, valves and then points and it starts up great. It idles high even with the idle screw all the way out.
I drove it in a two mile circle from home and while turning onto my street it died.
The new NGJ spark plugs are black already.
Not sure why it would die when it was idling high.


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