1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage Two™

OK... I've fabbed up a mount for the left rearset. I don't have a lot of tools, but I do have an angle grinder and some 3/16" plate steel. It should be strong enough. I'm going to try to braze it, first. If that doesn't pan out, I'll weld.

I still need to hit up the hardware store for the top mounting bolt and acorn nut and I'll paint the mount red after I get it attached to the frame.

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The head is back from the (new) machinist. The surfaces have been cleaned up and the angles within the combustion chambers now match the pistons.

Time for another dry assembly to check clearances.

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That looks sooo much better than the last head.. wish you luch with your clearances.
 
Agree, that looks way better, did they use a mill? very clean

anychance of a pick down the can chain guide before you put the head on? its for my bike that I want this info, I want to know how close the straight guide runs next to the chain?

hope the motor goes together better this time
 
pandknz said:
Agree, that looks way better, did they use a mill? very clean

anychance of a pick down the can chain guide before you put the head on? its for my bike that I want this info, I want to know how close the straight guide runs next to the chain?

hope the motor goes together better this time
Click to expand...

Looks like a surface grinder finish to me... But then again REAL mills can do amazing finishes with a face cutter or fly cutter.
 
Yeah... surface grinder. I asked the machinist to mill it, but he said he'd get a better finish with the grinder. Can't say I'm disappointed, but the proof is in the pudding. We'll see how well she seals up this time around.

I'll get a pic for you pretty soon, Paul.
 
Sonreir said:
I'm currently working on getting onto the supplier's list for a company called TrailTech. They make a lot of gear (mostly for offroad use) and they have a couple of computers that act as speedos and tachometers as well as other functions.

I have one of these on the way to me:
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html

Hoping to resell some at around $110 (includes shipping) once I get the details worked out.
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Did you get a chance to try out the TrailTech Vapor Gauge? I'm gathering up my electronic/electrical bits right now... need to pick a gauge.
 
3DogNate said:
Did you get a chance to try out the TrailTech Vapor Gauge? I'm gathering up my electronic/electrical bits right now... need to pick a gauge.
Click to expand...

Not yet. I'm still planning on getting one, but I'm having some machining work done for my charging upgrades and the money is going toward that. I'll be getting one in another month or two.
 
The stock motor mount is no longer suitable now that I'm ditching the OEM foot pegs and going with rearsets, so I bought some 3/8" aluminum stock and threaded it. It's about an ounce lighter than the steel it replaces.

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Fits up quite snugly and looks like it will get the job done.

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I'll get around to removing the excess steel tabs at some point.
 
Nice, how is the side stand position with the rear sets? I moved mine to the front of the frame.................... ;)
 
Not sure yet. I don't have the rearsets fully mounted. I'm hoping to do the welding (and possibly the painting) tonight. I don't expect there to be a problem, but every time I tear into my bike, this is me in the first couple of hours.
 

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Sonreir said:
The stock motor mount is no longer suitable now that I'm ditching the OEM foot pegs and going with rearsets, so I bought some 3/8" aluminum stock and threaded it. It's about an ounce lighter than the steel it replaces.

542377_10151190160200159_550556082_n.jpg
Click to expand...

IS that an aluminum bolt and is it for the rear engine mount? That will stretch and will fail in that application unfortunately. (If I understood the post correctly)
 
Yup. It's aluminum. I had supposed that the majority of the stress on the original bolt was due to the foot pegs and rider. If I am incorrect it's easy enough to cut and thread the original steel part. I still have it.
 
That bolt probably has the highest stress from the chain reversing force direction. Steel bolts in that position tend to fret and I'd expect an aluminium one to fail in fairly short order.

But if all the other bolts are in place and tight and not much slop in the engine mounts, it may not be a problem. I happen to like aluminum bolts but I restrict their use to parts with almost zero stress like side covers or brake reservoirs etc.
 
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