Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

LovingtheCLE said:
You have turned that engine into a work of art! Well done!

Thanks Bro, it has been challenging, and really a fun project so far. But, the question remains, will I be able to wire it from stratch, and will the motor actually run? ::) Time will tell.
 
My wheel bearings come in on Wednesday. I will have to remember to put them in the freezer right away so I can use your little trick.

Great work!
 
Edz - The rear bearings went in smooth. I'm sure 2 weeks at 0 F helped a lot. Hope your project goes well. :D
 
You can see the passion in your build so far...great work.

I like the "Re-Purpose" of the Industrial Valve part for a headlight , not sure about it for this build if i understand your vision, more bobber, Industrial, Rat...but cool. I wonder how a lamp from a small chopper headlight would work? I think they even have in Tri-Bar..(I think they are like 4.5" - 5").

Subscribed
 
Thanks for the kind words Frankenfe. Yeah, I'm not sure about the headlight. It's still kind of up in the air. I'll work on it, paint it, and I'll know right away if it's meant to be or not.

Thanks too for the suggestions.
 
Moving forward slow but sure. I cleaned the inside of my newly repaired tank using the anode/battery charger method to get as much rust out as possible. That worked great. Then I went through the 2 step POR 15 process to clean and etch it for coating, and finally the sealing.



It might be hard to tell from the photo, but this stuff gives a nice thorough, strong sealing of the inside of the tank. Since I still had a couple of pin holes, this did the trick.



Then on to replacing the front wheel bearings. For all you guys who say, "oh I don't need to change my wheel bearings, the old ones are working fine. This is what a 38 year old bearing looks like with 38 year old grease in it:



Yep it is nasty, and the grease on this thing is thick, not real viscous. So, on to the replacing portion of this task for those who are curious.



Keep whacking until the bearing breaks free.



Once it's out, knock out the other one.



Frozen bearing slides right in with a light tap.



Flip it over, install spacer, infuse with grease all around it.



Tap in the other bearing.



And install dust seal. Unfortunately, the new bearings I ordered were for a disc brake hub so I had to use the old dust seal.



But, it still has some life left in it. The frame and swingarm are painted, Rustoleum gloss black appliance enamel. Great stuff.



Matt has been updating me with my spoke refurbishing and eventual nickel plating. Man, he does great work. Here's a shot of the spokes after he painstakingly cleaned them up before sending them in to be nickel plated. I can't imagine how nice these are going to look when they're finished. They look great now! Highly recommend Matt (Sonreir) if you have a spoke wheel restoration.



While waiting for those I've started smoothing over the outside of the tank.



I really like the Evercoat product, Metal Easy Sand. It's a an easy to work with gel coat that has great adhesion, and like the name, is easy to sand. The photo shows the 3rd coat. It's close to the finish coat. I'll know once I sand it down.

Once the tank is ready for paint I can start on the seat!
 
youve been a busy boy. things are looking better and better.
BTW Im gonna lift your bearing pics for the blog. Thanks bubba
 
Thanks for the kind words, man. :)
I'm hoping the words are still kind when you see the bill... lol
 
Wangofree said:

Does that latch come stock on your tank? I need to replace my "key" latch and this looks like it would be a better replacement if I could get one for my 450 tank.
 
I believe it is a stock latch. It was on the bike when I bought it, and I'm sure others can verify that this is an original Honda gas tank cap.
 
That latch is the stock one from the factory. There is a recall for them to be replaced by the "keyed" locks. They really aren't keyed, any flat head screwdriver or key should open them

The keyed latches show up all the time on ebay.
 
frogman said:
That latch is the stock one from the factory. There is a recall for them to be replaced by the "keyed" locks. They really aren't keyed, any flat head screwdriver or key should open them

The keyed latches show up all the time on ebay.

Yup, found that trick out a while ago. Interesting that they wanted to replace an easy latch to get into with one thats nearly equally easy to get into. I need a new one of either latch really, but each seems to cost close to $50 which seems ridiculous to me when I can get a new speedo from DCC for less.
 
I've had my rearsets from Durgam_K (Kris) from Old School Speed for about 6 weeks, and they are a fantastic piece of machining. Really top notch. The only downside is, I must not be intuitive enough to figure out how these mount without instructions. I am having a devil of a time trying to figure out some of the connections.

Kris promises to create and post instructions, but that hasn't happened yet, and like a Rubik's cube in your hand, I can't rest until I get this figured out.

Here's what Kris sent me - a set of rearsets for a CB360:




Nice right? Most of this hardware makes sense, but the problems I'm having are with the rear brake assembly and also the connection to the gear shift peg.

I'm totally baffled what the 2 black plates do on the rear brake side:




They obviously pivot somehow, but I have no idea how they install, what goes where and why.

The other issue is the shifter. I'm lost on how to make the connection to the shift peg:



Do I have to fabricate my own transition piece that will slide onto the shift peg and the bolt on the rearset slip into it? Am I missing a piece? Am I just an idiot? Shall I just put them back in the box and sell them on DTT? Driving me nuts. :eek: :eek: :eek:

I wish I had a workable set of instructions to make the installation happen. I'm sure once I get some guidance I'll have a big "Ah ha" moment. Until then, if anyone has any ideas on this install, please let me know. I would really appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
This is a rearset from an FZR400. I think you're going to want/need the part circled in red. I suspect it would be possible to make one from the stock shifting lever by cutting off the section that fits around the actual shifter and perhaps welding on a nut?
 

Attachments

  • fzr.png
    fzr.png
    796.8 KB · Views: 236
Back
Top Bottom